Headlight Door Fit
I am trying to replace the right-hand headlight door on my '64½ Mustang. The left-hand door fits. The right side has been replaced so it's not original and does not fit correctly. I ordered a new '64½ door, C4ZB-13052-C, but it is identical to the one on the car and also does not fit properly. The Mustang Restoration Guide does not include a drawing for the '64½. However, it lists a 13064 part number for '65. I am told that there are differences between the '64½ and '65-'66 parts. I returned the new headlight door so I still need one for my '64½. To be perfectly clear, it's the headlamp door or the outer most part of the assembly.
Via the Internet
The removable, or outer most, part of the headlight assembly, or "headlight door," is identical for '64½ through '66 Mustangs. Complete headlight assemblies, which include the door, are slightly different for '64½ Mustangs but not the door itself. The '64½ hoods had a "lip" on the edges that required a relief in the headlight assembly to provide clearance. Only cars with the early hood require the '64½ assembly.
Like most body parts, the headlight doors must be tailored to fit the car body before paint. This is particularly true with reproduction parts since their manufacture is often not as consistent as assembly line pieces. The pot metal used for the headlight doors will allow some reshaping and bending to match the fender. A bit of filler is often necessary to get a perfect fit.
I have a '65 Mustang hardtop powered by a six-cylinder with automatic transmission. I have replaced the upper and lower control arms, spring perches, inner and outer tie-rods, drag link, idler arm, front antisway bar, and strut rod bushings, then had the frontend aligned. The steering won't self-center after turning. Is something wrong with the alignment? Also, I have a HCC-AT steering box that is worn; can I replace it with a HCC-AX box?
Shelby Township, MI
Oftentimes the idler arm bushing will bind, holding the steering to one side and hindering self-centering. Be sure that the idler arm bushing is captured, centered, and stays tight. Also, six-cylinder Mustangs seem to like a lot of positive caster, which, like the wheels on a shopping cart, tends to keep the steering straight ahead. However, too much will make it hard to turn. Factory specifications call for one degree positive. Adjust up to three degrees positive to see if that helps.
The steering boxes will physically interchange. However, the ratios differ. Your stock HCC-AT box is a 20:1 ratio, whereas the HCC-AX is a faster 16:1 ratio for the GT Equipment Group option. The HCC-AX box will quicken the steering feel but also increase the turning effort for a non-power steering car.
P/S Belt Routing
In 1995, I got the chance to purchase a '65 Mustang hardtop with a 289 V-8 from my wife's uncle. The car is a weekend driver with only about 78,000 km (50,000 miles) on the odometer. It was originally purchased from the largest Ford dealer in Vienna. I've installed dual-circuit power brakes and three-point safety harnesses. Now I'm planning to add power steering.
My question is: Does the belt for the power steering pulley run over the water pump pulley with double grooves, or only from the double groove crankshaft pulley to the power steering pulley? I have checked several photos and both ways seem to be viable options.
The '65-'66 V-8 power steering system is a simple bolt-on situation with the only unique pulley being a double-groove unit for the crankshaft. The power steering belt runs from the crankshaft pulley directly to the power steering pump pulley, therefore the alternator and water pump pulleys are not affected. The double-groove crankshaft pulley has been reproduced; it's available from most Mustang parts venders like most of the other early Mustang power steering parts.
Be certain to obtain a pair of "insert nuts" for the driver's side frame rail. The cast bracket for the power steering ram cylinder bolts to the frame rail using the crushable and threaded insert nuts. The holes for the inserts can be found in all frame rails, however, only power steering cars had the inserts installed. Order hardware number 375474-S for "crush nuts" and install them using a bolt, large washers, and lots of lubricant to collapse them. The rest of the power steering conversion is straight-forward and easily done.