Life has become easier for those of us who love classic Mustangs. In theold days--the '70s and '80s--we were limited in what we could do with avintage Mustang. At the mercy of salvage yards and a limited aftermarketindustry, we had to improvise at every turn.
Today, companies like Master Power Brakes make short work of upgradingyour braking system. You can bolt on disc brakes at all four corners.And, you can install power brakes any number of ways in '65-'66 Mustangsthat were never available with power disc brakes to begin with.
One of the greatest challenges for those with '67-'70 Mustangs isinstalling a power booster when there's a big-block underhood. Mix inthose Shelby pent-roof valve covers, and the potential for obscenitiesbecomes great. The stock power booster is virtually impossible to removeand install with the valve covers installed; it just doesn't fit. MasterPower Brakes changes all that with a compact power booster/mastercylinder combination that fits like a glove--without removing the valvecover.
Give Yourself A Boost
Master Power Brakes has power-brake booster packages for all '65-'73Mustangs. Here's the information you need to make an informed decision:
'65-'66: BM1522K (no brake pedal)
'67-'70: BM1521KA (brake pedal included)
'71-'73: BM1523 (no brake pedal)
Plumbing kit: AC2000
Combination valve: VL3350KF (Also called distribution block)
Vapor trap: No part number (keeps fuel vapors out of the powerbooster)
Petosin DOT 4 brake fluid
Electric vacuum pump: (Use when camshaft profile hurtsmanifold vacuum)
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1 Our Master Power Brake (No. BM1521KA) booster kit arrived withvirtually everything needed for installation: booster, master cylinder,distribution block with warning switch, vacuum hose, and installationhardware. Not shown here is the power-brake pedal assembly, alsoincluded. The GM distribution/proportioning-valve block combo shown hereis optional. You may have to do your own line fabrication or purchaselines, with fittings and flares, already made. Any seasoned auto partsstore or hydraulic-line shop can make lines for you. |
2 This is the area we are dealing with. To install the MasterPower Brakes booster, drill out the existing threaded-nut plates to getthe booster studs through the firewall. You also have to drill anadditional hole at the six o'clock position. |
3 (above & below) At the six o'clock position, relative to the master-cylinderopening in the firewall, drill a small pilot hole, followed by a3/8-inch hole. This accommodates the additional stud in the powerbooster. |
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4 We have actually removed the brake-pedal support to show youthe drilling process. Existing nut plates are drilled out to 3/8-7/16inch to make way for the power-booster studs. You can do this with thepedal support still in the car. |
5 The Master Power Brakes power booster and master-cylinderassembly is test-fitted in place. Installation, even with a huge FEbig-block and Shelby pent-roof valve covers, is simple. It glides rightin--our test fit is perfect. |
6 Chuck Schnarr and Laurie Slawson install our power booster.Chuck holds the booster while Laurie runs the nuts down underdash. |