How to Install Power Brakes in a Vintage Ford

7 Chuck tightens the self-locking nuts up under the dash. He hasremoved the steering column for visibility. Unless you do otherwise, youwill have to contend with the column.

8 Installed, the master cylinder and power booster clear theShelby pent-roof valve covers nicely. You can even remove the valvecover with the master cylinder installed.

9 We have removed the master cylinder for the brakehydraulic-line portion of this installation. Because our '68 Mustangfastback had manual drum brakes to begin with, we need to drill anadditional 3/8-inch hole (arrow) as indicated. This clears theproportioning-valve clamp bolt with the stock '68-'69 front-disc brakedistribution block.

10 The stock '68-'69 distribution block is installed, as shown.Two self-tapping bolts retain the block and proportioning-valveassembly.

11 This is the stock '68-'69 front-disc brake distribution blockand proportioning-valve combo installed.

12 We like the compact nature of the Master Power Brakes powerbooster. Check out the clearance. We installed this guy without removingthe big-block valve covers.

13 The master cylinder is reinstalled, as shown. Two self-lockingnuts get the job done.

14 All brake hydraulic lines are tightened, as shown. Allfittings should be checked for leakage after the brakes are bled.Remember that brake fluid will lift paint, so don't allow any fluid toleak onto your Mustang's paint.

15 The completed brake hydraulic-line installation at the mastercylinder looks like this.

16 Next is the vacuum-line connection between the power boosterand engine's intake manifold. If you are running a hot camshaft, whichcan reduce manifold vacuum, use a vacuum reservoir to store vacuum.

17 Looks sharp, doesn't it? The com-pleted underhood installationlooks stock, made for a Mustang! Underdash, attach the brake-lightswitch and rod to the brake pedal.