Then, if you decide to buy, get an agreement in writing from the seller. Draft an agreement that outlines the car. You may even want to hire an attorney to handle this for you--especially if it's a high-dollar deal. A simple outline puts into writing what the car is and that the seller guarantees the car to be as represented. This, more or less, protects you, the buyer. If the car arrives in poorer condition than what the seller confirmed in writing, you have legal recourse.
For example, let's say the seller has advertised the car as a factory original '65 Mustang GT convertible. You'll want this confirmed by the seller in writing in a signed agreement, notarized by a witness. This gives you legal recourse if the car turns out to be nothing more than a standard '65 convertible with foglights and a transplanted 289.
The goal is an honest, straight-up deal in which everyone understands what's expected. We suggest this procedure because we have witnessed too many stings when buyers have been duped by less than honest sellers. If a seller isn't willing to allow both a written and signed agreement as well as your thorough inspection of the vehicle, bite your lip and keep looking.
When you're examining a potential buy, go to extremes. Ask the seller if you may have the car professionally inspected at a restoration shop or body shop, or by a mechanic or knowledgeable Mustang club member. Welcome the seller to come along for the inspection. Seasoned Mustang experts, such as local club members and MCA-certified judges, are normally candid about a potential Mustang buy. If the car is a bad idea, most will tell you right away.
If you don't have the benefit of an expert, use your eyes, ears, and gut instincts. Are body seams and joints where they should be? Look at door, trunk, and hood-to-fender gaps. Are they uniform? Sloppy body fit is reason for caution, because it may mean accident damage. Close each door and observe how it shuts. Does it close easily, or do you have to slam it? Listen for rattles and odd noises. Roll the windows down and up. Are they difficult to move?
Stand back and look at the car from the front, rear, and each side. Is it straight? Have the seller drive the car while you follow from behind. Does it track straight? Also, have the seller follow you while you watch the front of the car. Again, does it track nicely?
 When checking out a potential...  When checking out a potential buy, understand what surface rust canmean. Sometimes, it's an easy fix. Other times, it's major league--justthe tip of the iceberg. Bubbles of rust in the paint and body fillertypically mean big trouble underneath. Don't be afraid--with the seller'spermission--to poke these areas with a screwdriver. |
 (above and below) Matching...  (above and below) Matching numbers mean more than just engine blocks. The inner fender VINshould match the warranty plate or certification sticker on the door. Ifthere is a body buck tag attached to the inner fender or radiatorsupport, the VIN should match. Not all warranty plates are transferredto the new door when the door is replaced. Expect some irregularitieswhen you're searching. |
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 A Mustang's structural soundness...  A Mustang's structural soundness is apparent at a glance. Look down eachside from bumper to bumper. Crooked body lines, sloppy gaps, and wavypanels are an indication of structural damage beneath the surface. This'66 Mustang hardtop appears relatively straight. Closer inspection ofthe door alignment tells us something different. |
 Often, some of the best deals...  Often, some of the best deals are unfinished projects. With many, thetoughest part of the restoration is complete--especially if they arepainted bodies ready for assembly. The seller's misfortune can be yourgood fortune. Unfinished projects turn up for sale because people runout of enthusiasm or experience an unfortunate turn of events, like jobloss or divorce. Be mindful of unfinished projects because they can begood deals for less money. |