 Here is our 66 hardtop...  Here is our 66 hardtop sitting in the Classic Creations shop after a long day of welding. Our cowl and taillight panel will be completed soon, then we will start preparing our hardtop so that it can receive several coats of PPG paint that was mixed for us in Anniversary Gold. |
 In order to correctly set...  In order to correctly set the new quarters, we started with a proper doortoquarter-panel gap. Since our hinges were shot, and we already had new doors from The Paddock, the door shells were hung with new KS Reproduction hinges. |
 Using the factory quarter...  Using the factory quarter as a guide, the new door was adjusted for a proper door gap before any metal was removed. This allowed us to use the door as a gauge for fitting the new quarter to the car. This operation is the same for a skin or a full quarter. |
 We also had KS Reproduction...  We also had KS Reproduction send us a new decklid, since ours was full of rust pinholes and had received poor repair work. Installing and adjusting the decklid allows us to use the edge of the decklid as a gauge for the top of the quarter when installing a full quarter-panel. |
 While some shops cut around...  While some shops cut around the factory lead seam, its best to remove the old lead and install the quarter as the factory did when installing a full quarter. Heat the lead with a torch, then brush it out of the seam with a stiff wire brush. Make sure you properly dispose of the lead. |
 Using a wire wheel, clean...  Using a wire wheel, clean the spot welds found underneath the leadas well as the spot welds found elsewhere on the quarter-paneluntil you can see them clearly to drill them out. |
 Using a sharp drill bit to...  Using a sharp drill bit to make quick work of the numerous spot welds, drill through the spot welds that retain the quarter-panel along the weld seam, the door striker face, the trunk lip, and the taillight panel. |
 Attempting to remove the quarter-panel...  Attempting to remove the quarter-panel as one large piece is unnecessary and quite trying. Its better to cut the quarter into sections, then remove the large sections firstas we are doing here. |
 Once the main quarter-panel...  Once the main quarter-panel has been cut away, you can use a pair of locking pliers to remove the small strips of metal found at the spot welds. |
 The outer wheelhouses were...  The outer wheelhouses were Swiss cheese after almost three decades of northern winters. Replacing the outer wheelhouse and adding a small patch to the inner wheelhouse was necessary. Dont weld in the wheelhouse yetsimply clamp it in place, since you will need the quarter-panel to properly align the wheelhouse. |
 Take a good look at an original...  Take a good look at an original hardtop, and you will undoubtedly see stress cracks at the roof where it meets the quarter- panel. Classic Creations reinforces this area on the back of the quarter by welding a tab directly behind the high-stress area to help prevent tearing of the metal due to stress. With the addition of torque boxes, we no longer have to worry about this problem. |
 The full quarter is carefully...  The full quarter is carefully slid under the roof skin and checked for the trial fit. Installing a full quarter is a wise choice, if you have major rust in the trunk lip area or if the taillight panel is going to be replaced as well. |
 On reproduction metal its...  On reproduction metal its common to find sharp edges or a lip that needs to be tweaked into place. Quite frankly, all metal needs to be fitted to the actual car it will be installed on, so dont be surprised if the metal youre installing needs some help to fit correctly. A block of wood is a safe tool to help get your panel to fit correctly. |
 Once the full quarter has...  Once the full quarter has been properly positioned at the front and your door gap looks good, the first MIG weld can be made at the very bottom of the quarterwhere it meets the rocker. To start, all you need is a tack to hold it in place. |
 Using the correct tool for...  Using the correct tool for the job is never more important than when working with metal. After lining up the decklid to the quarter gap and tacking the quarter in place, we used this spoon and a hammer to rework the edge of the quarter for a proper gap to the decklidsomething you wouldnt have to do with a quarter skin installation. |
 A third layer of sheetmetal...  A third layer of sheetmetal is behind the new quarter. Make sure you weld to it for proper strength. In order to reach this third layer of metal, use your drill bit to drill through the new quarter. Drill just enough to reach the layer of metal underneath it (without drilling through), then MIG-weld all three layers together. |
 The very bottom of the quarter-panel...  The very bottom of the quarter-panel at the rear of the car is left loose until we install our taillight panel and rear valance (to create a better fit). Finish your fresh welds by grinding them. Remember, you want to clean them with the grinder, not totally remove them. |
 To re-create the factory lead...  To re-create the factory lead seam, we used The Eastwood Companys Basic Body Solder kit (PN 31068). The kit features everything you needincluding an instructional videofor small jobs, such as this quarter-panel seam. Eastwood has larger solder kits, and you can buy additional bars of body solder as well. Make sure the area you will be soldering is completely clean. Apply the tinning butter to the area with one of the included acid brushes. |
 The tinning butter is then...  The tinning butter is then heated with a portable torch and wiped into the metal with a clean rag. This prepares the metal to receive the body solder. |
 The body solder is placed...  The body solder is placed up against the seam area and heated just enough to allow the solder bars to stick to the body and fill the seam. If you overheat the solder, it will run. To start, simply fill the seam. |
 Next, the lead is shaped to...  Next, the lead is shaped to fit the seam, using the tallow and the flat paddle that is included in the kit. The tallow is heated until it melts the top surface layer, then the paddle is quickly dipped into it, giving the paddle a coating of the tallowwhich prevents sticking. |
 The lead is gently heated...  The lead is gently heated again and shaped with the paddle. This process is repeated from the front of the seam to the rear. |
 Once the lead has been shaped...  Once the lead has been shaped and allowed to cool, the English fileincluded in the kitis used to knock down the solder to more closely match the factory contours of the roof line. |
 Once the major blocking has...  Once the major blocking has been accomplished with the English file, regular body working techniques can be used to finish the solder and prepare it for priming and painting. Dont forget to properly dispose of any scrap solder. |
 Dont forget the window...  Dont forget the window opening and rear deck panel seams. The solder needs to be shaped and sanded in these areas as well to re-create the original look of the seams. |
 Our completed full quarter-panel...  Our completed full quarter-panel is now ready for paint. Though we shot some PPG DP-90 black primer on the panel for now, we will use PPG DP-40 gray primer (which we didnt have at the time) when we finish our hardtop in Anniversary Gold. |
 Now we will move on to the...  Now we will move on to the driver side, where we will install a quarter skinwhich differs in installation procedures from the full quarter-panel. Begin by cutting away the major skin, leaving about an inch all around from the upper contour line. Although not shown here, the drivers door has been hung and adjusted already. |
 When youre finished,...  When youre finished, your quarter should look similar to the one shown here. We needed an outer wheelhouse and some patches on this side as well. |
 Our new outer wheelhouse is...  Our new outer wheelhouse is clamped into place and awaits the quarter skin for final placement. |
 The new quarter skin is clamped...  The new quarter skin is clamped into place for a trial fit. Everything looks good and the quarter skin and wheelhouse are given final adjustments before welding starts. |
 Again, a block of wood can...  Again, a block of wood can be very handy when persuading sheetmetal to line up. The bottom of our quarter skin needed some help fitting our door alignment. Once fitted, the skin is tacked to the doorjamb to prevent movement. |
 The quarter extension is trial-fitted...  The quarter extension is trial-fitted to the car, and the quarter skin is adjusted for a nice, flush fit. |
 Once the quarter skin is sitting...  Once the quarter skin is sitting where it needs to be, the MIG welder is called in, and the end of the skin is attached to the taillight panel. |
 The top of the quarter skin...  The top of the quarter skin is now ready to be welded to the original sheetmetal. The skin is butt-welded to the car like a floorpan. Using a reciprocating saw, the old quarter and new skin are cut together. Every few inches, the cutting is suspended and a tack weld is made. |
 Once the top of the quarter...  Once the top of the quarter has been cut and tack-welded, the remaining old metal that was cut away is removed from the trunk area where it fell. |
 All thats left to do...  All thats left to do is close up the gap between each tack weld. The quarter skin is welded in small sections, using a wet towel to prevent the heat from warping the new skin. |
 The completed weld is invisible...  The completed weld is invisible to the casual observer looking into the trunk, but it can be felt. Of course, some grinding and a generous layer of primer and paint could conceal it. |
 Like all welds, the completed...  Like all welds, the completed weld on the top of the quarter skin requires grinding. Care needs to be taken to ensure that the original contour of the top of the quarter is maintained. Welding the skin on in this fashion minimizes plastic filler usage and puts the filler in a narrow line along the top of the fender versus across the side of the skin in a typical flange repair. |
 Note the nice- looking door-to-quarter...  Note the nice- looking door-to-quarter gap and the ground weld. A small amount of body filler and some primer and the quarter looks original. Tune in for our final metal repair stories on our 66 hardtop project, including taillight panel and cowl patches in the coming months. Then it will be time to break out the paintbrushes! |