Quarter-Panel Repairs

Here is our ’66 hardtop...        read full caption Here is our ’66 hardtop sitting in the Classic Creations shop after a long day of welding. Our cowl and taillight panel will be completed soon, then we will start preparing our hardtop so that it can receive several coats of PPG paint that was mixed for us in Anniversary Gold.

In order to correctly set...        read full caption In order to correctly set the new quarters, we started with a proper door–to–quarter-panel gap. Since our hinges were shot, and we already had new doors from The Paddock, the door shells were hung with new KS Reproduction hinges.

Using the factory quarter...        read full caption Using the factory quarter as a guide, the new door was adjusted for a proper door gap before any metal was removed. This allowed us to use the door as a “gauge” for fitting the new quarter to the car. This operation is the same for a skin or a full quarter.

We also had KS Reproduction...        read full caption We also had KS Reproduction send us a new decklid, since ours was full of rust pinholes and had received poor repair work. Installing and adjusting the decklid allows us to use the edge of the decklid as a “gauge” for the top of the quarter when installing a full quarter-panel.

While some shops cut around...        read full caption While some shops cut around the factory lead seam, it’s best to remove the old lead and install the quarter as the factory did when installing a full quarter. Heat the lead with a torch, then brush it out of the seam with a stiff wire brush. Make sure you properly dispose of the lead.

Using a wire wheel, clean...        read full caption Using a wire wheel, clean the spot welds found underneath the lead—as well as the spot welds found elsewhere on the quarter-panel—until you can see them clearly to drill them out.

Using a sharp drill bit to...        read full caption Using a sharp drill bit to make quick work of the numerous spot welds, drill through the spot welds that retain the quarter-panel along the weld seam, the door striker face, the trunk lip, and the taillight panel.

Attempting to remove the quarter-panel...        read full caption Attempting to remove the quarter-panel as one large piece is unnecessary and quite trying. It’s better to cut the quarter into sections, then remove the large sections first—as we are doing here.

Once the main quarter-panel...        read full caption Once the main quarter-panel has been cut away, you can use a pair of locking pliers to remove the small strips of metal found at the spot welds.

The outer wheelhouses were...        read full caption The outer wheelhouses were Swiss cheese after almost three decades of northern winters. Replacing the outer wheelhouse and adding a small patch to the inner wheelhouse was necessary. Don’t weld in the wheelhouse yet—simply clamp it in place, since you will need the quarter-panel to properly align the wheelhouse.

Take a good look at an original...        read full caption Take a good look at an original hardtop, and you will undoubtedly see stress cracks at the roof where it meets the quarter- panel. Classic Creations reinforces this area on the back of the quarter by welding a tab directly behind the high-stress area to help prevent “tearing” of the metal due to stress. With the addition of torque boxes, we no longer have to worry about this problem.

The full quarter is carefully...        read full caption The full quarter is carefully slid under the roof skin and checked for the trial fit. Installing a full quarter is a wise choice, if you have major rust in the trunk lip area or if the taillight panel is going to be replaced as well.

On reproduction metal it’s...        read full caption On reproduction metal it’s common to find sharp edges or a lip that needs to be tweaked into place. Quite frankly, all metal needs to be fitted to the actual car it will be installed on, so don’t be surprised if the metal you’re installing needs some “help” to fit correctly. A block of wood is a safe tool to help get your panel to fit correctly.

Once the full quarter has...        read full caption Once the full quarter has been properly positioned at the front and your door gap looks good, the first MIG weld can be made at the very bottom of the quarter—where it meets the rocker. To start, all you need is a tack to hold it in place.

Using the correct tool for...        read full caption Using the correct tool for the job is never more important than when working with metal. After lining up the decklid to the quarter gap and tacking the quarter in place, we used this spoon and a hammer to rework the edge of the quarter for a proper gap to the decklid—something you wouldn’t have to do with a quarter skin installation.

A third layer of sheetmetal...        read full caption A third layer of sheetmetal is behind the new quarter. Make sure you weld to it for proper strength. In order to reach this third layer of metal, use your drill bit to drill through the new quarter. Drill just enough to reach the layer of metal underneath it (without drilling through), then MIG-weld all three layers together.

The very bottom of the quarter-panel...        read full caption The very bottom of the quarter-panel at the rear of the car is left loose until we install our taillight panel and rear valance (to create a better fit). Finish your fresh welds by grinding them. Remember, you want to clean them with the grinder, not totally remove them.

To re-create the factory lead...        read full caption To re-create the factory lead seam, we used The Eastwood Company’s Basic Body Solder kit (PN 31068). The kit features everything you need—including an instructional video—for small jobs, such as this quarter-panel seam. Eastwood has larger solder kits, and you can buy additional bars of body solder as well. Make sure the area you will be soldering is completely clean. Apply the tinning butter to the area with one of the included acid brushes.

The tinning butter is then...        read full caption The tinning butter is then heated with a portable torch and wiped into the metal with a clean rag. This prepares the metal to receive the body solder.

The body solder is placed...        read full caption The body solder is placed up against the seam area and heated just enough to allow the solder bars to stick to the body and fill the seam. If you overheat the solder, it will run. To start, simply fill the seam.

Next, the lead is shaped to...        read full caption Next, the lead is shaped to fit the seam, using the tallow and the flat paddle that is included in the kit. The tallow is heated until it melts the top surface layer, then the paddle is quickly dipped into it, giving the paddle a coating of the tallow—which prevents sticking.

The lead is gently heated...        read full caption The lead is gently heated again and shaped with the paddle. This process is repeated from the front of the seam to the rear.

Once the lead has been shaped...        read full caption Once the lead has been shaped and allowed to cool, the English file—included in the kit—is used to knock down the solder to more closely match the factory contours of the roof line.

Once the major blocking has...        read full caption Once the major blocking has been accomplished with the English file, regular body working techniques can be used to finish the solder and prepare it for priming and painting. Don’t forget to properly dispose of any scrap solder.

Don’t forget the window...        read full caption Don’t forget the window opening and rear deck panel seams. The solder needs to be shaped and sanded in these areas as well to re-create the original look of the seams.

Our completed full quarter-panel...        read full caption Our completed full quarter-panel is now ready for paint. Though we shot some PPG DP-90 black primer on the panel for now, we will use PPG DP-40 gray primer (which we didn’t have at the time) when we finish our hardtop in Anniversary Gold.

Now we will move on to the...        read full caption Now we will move on to the driver side, where we will install a quarter skin—which differs in installation procedures from the full quarter-panel. Begin by cutting away the major skin, leaving about an inch all around from the upper contour line. Although not shown here, the driver’s door has been hung and adjusted already.

When you’re finished,...        read full caption When you’re finished, your quarter should look similar to the one shown here. We needed an outer wheelhouse and some patches on this side as well.

Our new outer wheelhouse is...        read full caption Our new outer wheelhouse is clamped into place and awaits the quarter skin for final placement.

The new quarter skin is clamped...        read full caption The new quarter skin is clamped into place for a trial fit. Everything looks good and the quarter skin and wheelhouse are given final adjustments before welding starts.

Again, a block of wood can...        read full caption Again, a block of wood can be very handy when persuading sheetmetal to line up. The bottom of our quarter skin needed some help fitting our door alignment. Once fitted, the skin is tacked to the doorjamb to prevent movement.

The quarter extension is trial-fitted...        read full caption The quarter extension is trial-fitted to the car, and the quarter skin is adjusted for a nice, flush fit.

Once the quarter skin is sitting...        read full caption Once the quarter skin is sitting where it needs to be, the MIG welder is called in, and the end of the skin is attached to the taillight panel.

The top of the quarter skin...        read full caption The top of the quarter skin is now ready to be welded to the original sheetmetal. The skin is butt-welded to the car like a floorpan. Using a reciprocating saw, the old quarter and new skin are cut together. Every few inches, the cutting is suspended and a tack weld is made.

Once the top of the quarter...        read full caption Once the top of the quarter has been cut and tack-welded, the remaining old metal that was cut away is removed from the trunk area where it fell.

All that’s left to do...        read full caption All that’s left to do is close up the gap between each tack weld. The quarter skin is welded in small sections, using a wet towel to prevent the heat from warping the new skin.

The completed weld is invisible...        read full caption The completed weld is invisible to the casual observer looking into the trunk, but it can be felt. Of course, some grinding and a generous layer of primer and paint could conceal it.

Like all welds, the completed...        read full caption Like all welds, the completed weld on the top of the quarter skin requires grinding. Care needs to be taken to ensure that the original contour of the top of the quarter is maintained. Welding the skin on in this fashion minimizes plastic filler usage and puts the filler in a narrow line along the top of the fender versus across the side of the skin in a typical “flange” repair.

Note the nice- looking door-to-quarter...        read full caption Note the nice- looking door-to-quarter gap and the ground weld. A small amount of body filler and some primer and the quarter looks original. Tune in for our final metal repair stories on our ’66 hardtop project, including taillight panel and cowl patches in the coming months. Then it will be time to break out the paintbrushes!

Though our ’66 Mustang hardtop project has been painted for almost two months in real life, in “magazine life,” we’re still working on the bodywork.

Previously, we’ve featured articles on floorpans (with the addition of torque boxes), rear framerails (with trunk floors), radiator core support, and fender apron replacement. This month we’ll head toward third base with our sheetmetal repairs by replacing the rear quarter-panels and outer wheelhouses. After this, the only repairs left for our ’66 are replacing the taillight panel and repairing the rusty cowl vents, which will be featured in upcoming articles. Then we will follow through with preparing the car for painting and showing you how you can paint your own car.

Before we replaced the quarter-panels, we discussed our options with Merv and Pat Rego of Classic Creations of Central Florida. Classic Creations has been ably handling our ’66 up ’til now. Since our quarters were poorly patched when we bought the car, our only option was a full replacement. We’re not saying that using patches is bad—they can be quite cost-effective for small rust problems—but the poor installation by the previous owner and the overall condition of the remaining quarter dictated that we replace the complete quarter surface.

So with the idea of patches out of the way, we were left with only two choices: a quarter-skin or a full quarter-panel. The differences between the two are not major. The skin is literally the outer skin of the quarter (there is no taillight panel end or trunk lip). The full quarter is identical to the original quarter installed by Ford, including a trunk lip, a front weld lip, and the lead-seam channel at the roof. After some thought, we called KS Reproductions for one of each. We decided to install a skin on one side and a full quarter on the other side, so that you could see the installation differences and the good and bad points on both types of quarter repairs.