In the previous installment, we showed you how to correctly position '65-'66 Mustang body emblems and letters based on a sampling of Dearborn, San Jose, and Metuchen-built units. This month, we're doing the same thing for '67-'68 Mustangs. Like the '65-'66 Mustangs, it appears Dearborn and Metuchen have it over San Jose for accuracy. Most of the undisturbed '67-'68 samples we found from Dearborn and Metuchen enjoyed crisp letter-and-emblem accuracy. San Jose's were consistently poor with crooked letters on '67s and M U S T A N G script that ran uphill. If correctness is your objective with a San Jose unit, your restoration should possess those crooked letters as they came from the factory. If you're more concerned about appearance, follow our directions for best results.
Generation Two
Like the first two model years, second-generation Mustangs were offered two ways: standard and GT. For the '67, there were two GT variations: GT and GTA. Among the samples we examined and measured, we found variations with original factory cars. San Jose-built units were among the greatest variations. Standard '67 Mustangs have crooked front-fender letters; ditto for the decklids. Standard '68 Mustangs have M U S T A N G script that runs downhill on some, but not all, San Jose units. The sidebars below show some of the best examples we found.
'67: The Last Year For Block-Style Letters
The '67 Mustang is undoubtedly the most challenging for the same reason as '65-'66 GTs. Spacing on these seven tiny letters is critical and mandates close attention or the fender will look like hell. We found a factory original example at Mustangs Etc. in Van Nuys, California. Here are the results.
On the right side, we're measuring from the fender's trailing edge at the door to the left side of each letter as follows: M is 1-1/2 inches, U is 3-1/4 inches, S is 5 inches, T is 6-1/2 inches, A is 7-7/8 inches, N is 9-1/2 inches, and G is 11-1/8 inches. Use a straight edge to measure your letters, and tape them in place for accuracy. | 
M U S T A N G is 10-5/8 inches from the upper beltline radius. | 
The Pony and Tri-bar positioning for 1967 is similar to the GT badging for the '65-'66. The V-8 versions are positioned 7-1/4 inches from the upper beltline radius (top of emblem)... |
...and 13 inches from the left side to the fender's trailing edge at the door. | 
On the left side, M U S T A N G goes like this: G is 1-1/2 inches from the trailing edge, N is 3 inches, A is 4-1/2 inches, T is 6-1/4 inches, S is 7-7/8 inches, U is 9-1/8 inches, and M is 10-7/8 inches. All letters are measured from the right side. | 
M U S T A N G is 10-1/2 inches down from the upper beltline radius. |
The Pony and Tri-bar on V-8 models is 7-1/4 inches down from the upper beltline radius... | 
...and 13 inches forward of the fender's trailing edge at the door. Make the appropriate adjustment here for six-cylinder models, which don't have the displacement. | 
For 1967 only, Ford put F O R D on the hood's leading edge. As with 1965-'66, we measure from the radius to each letter as shown. The F is 6-1/2 inches from the right-hand radius to the left side of the letter. The O is 14-7/8 inches from the radius to the left side of the letter. The hood's crown is 19-3/4 inches from the radius. |
On the left-hand side, the D is 6-3/8 inches from the radius, and the R is 14-7/8 inches from the radius. Both letters are measured from the right side of the letter. | 
For the '67 hardtops and convertibles, M is 11-3/4 inches from the left side of the decklid, U is 16-5/8 inches, S is 21-3/8 inches. | 
T is 25-3/4 inches, A is 30-3/8 inches, N is 34-5/8 inches, and G is 39-3/8 inches. All letters are measured from the left side of the lid to the left side of each letter. |