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Ford 331 Cubic Inch Stroker Engine - Going For 400/400

The Summit Racing/MCE Engines 331 Stealth Small-Block Makes Big-Block Power - With Room for More!
Ford 331 Stroker Engine Build
Ford 331 Stroker Engine Build
There are two approaches with... 
   
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Ford 331 Stroker Engine Build
There are two approaches with the 331 Stealth small-block stroker. For 400 hp now and another 100-200 hp later, build a brute platform that can stand up to the pounding of more ponies. This is a Probe Industries 4340 large-radius steel crank that has been micro-polished for smoothness and reduced friction...
Ford 331 Stroker Engine Build
...Oil holes have been chamfered... 
   
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Ford 331 Stroker Engine Build
...Oil holes have been chamfered to improve oil flow to the bearings. We like the Probe 4340 I-beam lightweight rods. Probe forged 4.030-inch pistons are whittled from 2618-T6 aluminum. Marvin has worked all of these pieces to exacting MCE standards.
Ford 331 Stroker Engine Build
Summit Racing provided Marvin... 
   
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Ford 331 Stroker Engine Build
Summit Racing provided Marvin with a Fluidampr harmonic balancer which dampens vibration better than a factory balancer, especially if spinning above 6,000 rpm.
  • Remove all the freeze and oil galley plugs
  • Remove the cam bearings
  • Hot-tank and jet-clean the block
  • Check for core shift by looking at the lifter bores. If you see an offset, don't use the block for performance use
  • Magnaflux the block to check for cracks and casting flaws
  • Deburr all the sharp edges in the block casting, both inside and outside
  • Remove all the internal sand cavities (i.e., craters in the casting surface)
  • Tap all the front oil galleys for screw-in galley plugs
  • Radius the lifter-valley oil drain holes for improved drain back
  • Install oil drain-back screens to catch any debris
  • Chamfer the oil filter-station passages for improved flow
  • Chase all the bolt-hole threads using bottom taps. Then chamfer and radius all holes for smooth bolt installation
  • Tap the crankshaft-to-camshaft oil galley passages for oil restrictors in main journals 2 through 5 only. Do not install a lifter galley restrictor if running a hydraulic camshaft
  • Mill the block-decks to true (i.e., parallel to each other and flat within .002-inch in any 6-inch direction, and an equal distance to the crankshaft centerline)
  • Install the main caps and torque to specifications for a snug fit
  • Bore the cylinders to 4.025 inches, then finish-hone them to micro-smooth at 4.030-inches. Always use torque plates during the honing process: Never any greater than 4.030-inches if racing, and never any higher than 4.040-inches for street use
  • Line-hone the main bearing saddles
  • Clean all the passages by hand using mineral spirits, bore brushes, and compressed air. Visually inspect all of them
  • Jet-clean the block and check all passages for cleanliness again
  • Install the cam bearings, solid-steel shell type only
  • Prefit the camshaft and check for smooth rotation. Any binding or resistance to rotation is unacceptable and indicates bearing misalignment
  • Install the restrictor kit to camshaft bearings using high-temp Loctite
  • Install all of the oil-galley plugs
  • Drill the passenger-side oil-galley plug .020-inch for timing-chain lubrication, then install the plug in the block. Clean the plug before installation
  • Install the camshaft rear-bearing plug at the back of the block
  • Coat all the nonmachined, rough, internal surfaces with an oil/acid-resistant paint, such as GE's Glyptal 1201, available from The Eastwood Company
  • Mask all the machined surfaces and paint the block exterior with a high-temperature engine paint of your choice. VHT is recommended
  • Dimple the intake-manifold endrails with a center punch, both manifold and block, to help retain the end gaskets
  • Install the oil-filter adaptor fitting, and torque it to 70-80 lb-ft.

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