How To Spot A Fake '65-'66 GT

One of the best indicators... 

   

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One of the best indicators of originality on a GT or any Mustang for that matter is the door data plate. This door data plate shows signs of wear, but it also has the incorrect rivets as well, making us suspicious. Of course, the door tag needs to match the VIN on the inner fender. A good tip to see if the VIN has been replaced is to look under the fenderwell and see if the area around the VIN has been tampered with.

The venerable and vaulted GT suffers under some of the same angst as other high-performance vehicles. There are probably, per capita, more GTs on the road today than there were when the cars were new. Who can blame the copycats? After all, these cars fetch more money than a standard fastback or hardtop-not only that, but also the GT carries a mystique that draws people.

Even so, when you are out there trying to buy into that mystique, you don't want your purchase to be a Johnny-come-lately or some cobbled-up mess-you want the real thing. Obviously, as fakes go, there are cars that range from poorly done to well done. What is really scary today is that the knowledge on these cars is so great that good fakers can fool even the best experts. All the parts are certainly available to do it, too. You can get all the badging, exhaust hangers, and a correctly riveted door tag from any of the vendors that market Mustang parts.

So with all that said, how can you distinguish a real GT from a fake? You can't, because dealers in 1965 actually "made" GTs. That's right. They did just what today's fakers do: They raided the parts bin and made GTs from standard hardtops, convertibles, and fastbacks. Ouch. This truly adds a certain murky quality to being able to tell a real GT from a fake. Why? Because the Mustang community considers these GTs to be legitimate due to the fact that they were cobbled together at the original-selling dealer.

What Makes a Factory GT

Interior

Driveline

Special K
There are some items that are particular to the Hi-Po, whether it's in the GT or not. Some items are listed in the story, while other obvious items are listed below.

GT or Not?
In the final analysis, not only did the convertible turn out to not be a GT, but our '65 was a '66. The best recommendation is that the buyer should beware. Know your GTs, know what they are supposed to have, and try to obtain as much info from the owner as possible. The better armed you are with info, the better you'll be able to discern what the real deal is on the GT.

This convertible supposedly...        read full caption This convertible supposedly has the venerable 289 Hi-Po. But does it really? The air cleaner is correct for a '65 Hi-Po GT, but the valve covers are painted-definitely not correct. The GT had chrome covers. This Mustang does have the correct Hi-Po distributor without the vacuum canister-a point in its favor.	Engine tags are nice and this...        read full caption Engine tags are nice and this one looks original, but is it really the one for this car? We begin to doubt it simply because the build date of the engine is six months after the car was built. Another thing to look for is a new tag on a car that is in this condition. These should send up a red flag just as readily as this original does.	In photo No. 4, the sway bar...        read full caption In photo No. 4, the sway bar seems a bit small when compared to this original GT sway bar. The diameter of the bar should be 1 3/16 inch rather than the standard 1 1/16 inch used on the Mustang.
There are several things to...        read full caption There are several things to look for here. The fuel pump is the correct early style, though the likelihood of the original pump still being there is fairly poor. Surprisingly, the car does have the correct Hi-Po balancer (arrow), though the water pump could be considered wrong, as Ford began using cast-iron pumps in June 1965. This is consistent with our engine tag.	Another problem crops up on...        read full caption Another problem crops up on our supposed Hi-Po. The alternator should have a large, single pulley on it. This dual pulley is for air conditioning or the extra-cooling package and was not used on the Hi-Po.	Our carburetor seems to be...        read full caption Our carburetor seems to be an original Hi-Po unit. What is missing from this picture is the choke cable. In fact, it seems to be missing from the firewall and interior as well. The carb tag (arrow) on any GT should have date codes that are prior to the build date of the car.