Mustang Glue in Windshield - How To: Glue In Glass

Paremsky recommends that you install the top edge first, and then set the glass into position. Removal of the windshield stops is optional, though we recommend that they be removed.

After the windshield is installed, we used the palm of our hand to make sure that we had a good seal all the way around the glass. The windshield adhesive strip should be a deep black bead about 11/44 inch wide all the way around. You will not be able to see the bead behind the tint band or in the blacked-out lower portion, so be sure to apply pressure all the way around.

At this point, we reinstalled the stops. The tapping screws are golden cad. You can order these from AMK under PN B-2099, and you will get six screws with the correct finish.

Next up is the sealer that we used to fill the channel. This is put in place more for sound deadening than for weather sealing. We used 3M urethane sealer (PN 08609). In order to fill the void left around the window, we used 111/42 tubes of the sealer.

After the sealer is in place, use a flat-blade screwdriver or cut-down paint stick to flatten the sealer. Be sure to get the sealer deep into the areas in front of the windshield clips. Try to make sure that the sealer is level with the windshield. Work quickly, as the sealer dries fast.

We got sealer on the paint. In reality, it is not a matter of whether it will happen, but only a matter of how much. This can be removed with a product called Goo Gone. Be sure to get down into the space between the moldings and the bright work, and remove as much sealer as you can. If you wrap one of your fingernails in a single layer of a thin cloth, then this can prove to be most effective. Also be sure to rewax your car after Goo Gone has been applied.

As for the installation of the moldings, the roof bright work went on first, and then the A-pillar moldings. We used a karate chop with the heel of our hand to set the pieces. Make sure that they are basically flat across the body since the aluminum can really do a number on the paint.

At this point, we switch gears and begin installing the parts on the cowl. First up were the three hood bumpers. We obtained these direct from Daniel Carpenter Reproductions, though most parts suppliers stock these parts. We reused our original Phillips head fasteners here rather than the hex-head screws provided.

Next up was the cowl seal. This piece kept hot engine bay air out of the cowl vent. Once again, we used a Daniel Carpenter piece. The new cowl strip has to be assembled, so we laid it on the ground next to the original and used an awl to make the hole in the foam. We then applied the clips provided.

In order to get a good, natural-looking fit, we had to tweak the clip position once the seal was loosely installed. This was done by repositioning the holes as needed. The clips were then walked into the holes from inside the cowl tank.

Next on the list was the wiper arm assembly. This was greased with a spray grease such as Gibbs oil, and then the assembly was placed in the tank. The color for the assembly is a greenish-gray color, and is some type of coating. The driver arm goes in first, and the special hex-head fasteners are set loosely. These were similar in color to the arm assembly, but we used our Rust-Oleum Dark Bronze color, which is close to the original finish.

As soon as the driver side was set, we moved on to the passenger side and installed the arm and the wiper stop. We then tightened all the hex bolts except for the one with the stop. It will need to be tightened after the wires are installed.