Some people have more skills than others, and that's why we have friends and a list of favors to swap. This comes from the age-old bartering system. You remember that from grade school, right? You know, the "I'll trade you three chickens for a new wagon wheel" type of stuff. But today, it is more along the lines of "I'll help you wire your garage for 220 if you reupholster my seats."
Some skills we can easily show you right here in the pages of this magazine. Learning to overhaul a set of brakes or rebuilding an alternator are fairly basic tasks that need little hand-holding and a good set of instructions. Other skills such as painting a car or installing a new ring-and-pinion gearset take time and patience to master.
So why do we show operations such as ring-and-pinion replacement, or in this case, the replacement of a vintage convertible top? You see, sometimes a person simply needs a little push to get him going on a task. Some like the challenge, while others want to complete the repair or upgrade themselves, but simply need some guidance as to the correct parts and proper installation. Those times where we got stuck and were hit by a "gotcha" will help you work around them.
Replacing a convertible top takes time and patience to complete and you still may end up taking your vintage Mustang to a convertible top specialist for replacement. At least after reading this how-to article, you will know exactly what they are going to do to your prized four-wheel friend when you drop it off. Mr. Autocraft in Bartow, Florida, helped us by installing a new top, top pads, and a rear window in a '65 Mustang. The top, pad kit, and rear window-as well as the '65 Mustang-came to us on loan from Classic Creations of Central Florida.
To begin the removal of the...
To begin the removal of the top, the header weatherstrip is partially removed and the separate bead at the front of the top material is pulled free. Then, the top is pulled free of the front tacking strip. The top is in the down position, which is where most of the early removal steps occur.
The No. 2 and 3 top bows retain...
The No. 2 and 3 top bows retain the top with a simple, flat steel strip that is attached to the bows with screws. Remove the screws, and then carefully slide out the steel strips.
The No. 2 and 3 top bows retain...
The No. 2 and 3 top bows retain the top with a simple, flat steel strip that is attached to the bows with screws. Remove the screws, and then carefully slide out the steel strips.
A wire-stay is located on...
A wire-stay is located on each side of the top frame to help position and locate the top material. Remove the retaining screws from them, and pull the wires through and out of the top material.
To facilitate easy removal...
To facilitate easy removal and make the old top more manageable, the top is cut away from the rear tacking strip. The remaining material is easier to work with for removal.
Once one of the top pads was...
Once one of the top pads was removed, the rear tacking strips were deemed unusable, as was the front tacking strip. This Mustang has seen several replacement tops throughout the years. New plastic tacking strip material is installed in place of the old paper type.
With the top frame completely...
With the top frame completely free of material (except for one bow pad previously mentioned), the crew at Mr. Autocraft then removed the rear bolt-in tacking strip and the old well liner. The boot retaining trim is removed here to access the front of the well liner.
Once the well liner has been...
Once the well liner has been sepa-rated from the floor, the liner and rear window are raised high enough to get at the mounting bolts for the rear tacking strip. The strip is actually three separate pieces-one long rear strip and two short side pieces.
Once the well liner has been...
Once the well liner has been sepa-rated from the floor, the liner and rear window are raised high enough to get at the mounting bolts for the rear tacking strip. The strip is actually three separate pieces-one long rear strip and two short side pieces.