|
|
1965 Ford Mustang Convertible Top Repair - How To: Replace Your '65-'68 Convertible TopWe Follow Along As A '65 Mustang Gets Its Top Replaced From the May, 2000 issue of Mustang Monthly By Mark Houlahan Photography by Mark Houlahan
|
|
Some people have more skills than others, and that's why we have friends and a list of favors to swap. This comes from the age-old bartering system. You remember that from grade school, right? You know, the "I'll trade you three chickens for a new wagon wheel" type of stuff. But today, it is more along the lines of "I'll help you wire your garage for 220 if you reupholster my seats." Some skills we can easily show you right here in the pages of this magazine. Learning to overhaul a set of brakes or rebuilding an alternator are fairly basic tasks that need little hand-holding and a good set of instructions. Other skills such as painting a car or installing a new ring-and-pinion gearset take time and patience to master. So why do we show operations such as ring-and-pinion replacement, or in this case, the replacement of a vintage convertible top? You see, sometimes a person simply needs a little push to get him going on a task. Some like the challenge, while others want to complete the repair or upgrade themselves, but simply need some guidance as to the correct parts and proper installation. Those times where we got stuck and were hit by a "gotcha" will help you work around them. Replacing a convertible top takes time and patience to complete and you still may end up taking your vintage Mustang to a convertible top specialist for replacement. At least after reading this how-to article, you will know exactly what they are going to do to your prized four-wheel friend when you drop it off. Mr. Autocraft in Bartow, Florida, helped us by installing a new top, top pads, and a rear window in a '65 Mustang. The top, pad kit, and rear window-as well as the '65 Mustang-came to us on loan from Classic Creations of Central Florida.  To begin the removal of the...  To begin the removal of the top, the header weatherstrip is partially removed and the separate bead at the front of the top material is pulled free. Then, the top is pulled free of the front tacking strip. The top is in the down position, which is where most of the early removal steps occur.  The No. 2 and 3 top bows retain...  The No. 2 and 3 top bows retain the top with a simple, flat steel strip that is attached to the bows with screws. Remove the screws, and then carefully slide out the steel strips.  The No. 2 and 3 top bows retain...  The No. 2 and 3 top bows retain the top with a simple, flat steel strip that is attached to the bows with screws. Remove the screws, and then carefully slide out the steel strips.  A wire-stay is located on...  A wire-stay is located on each side of the top frame to help position and locate the top material. Remove the retaining screws from them, and pull the wires through and out of the top material.  To facilitate easy removal...  To facilitate easy removal and make the old top more manageable, the top is cut away from the rear tacking strip. The remaining material is easier to work with for removal.  Once one of the top pads was...  Once one of the top pads was removed, the rear tacking strips were deemed unusable, as was the front tacking strip. This Mustang has seen several replacement tops throughout the years. New plastic tacking strip material is installed in place of the old paper type.  With the top frame completely...  With the top frame completely free of material (except for one bow pad previously mentioned), the crew at Mr. Autocraft then removed the rear bolt-in tacking strip and the old well liner. The boot retaining trim is removed here to access the front of the well liner.  Once the well liner has been...  Once the well liner has been sepa-rated from the floor, the liner and rear window are raised high enough to get at the mounting bolts for the rear tacking strip. The strip is actually three separate pieces-one long rear strip and two short side pieces. Once the well liner has been... Once the well liner has been sepa-rated from the floor, the liner and rear window are raised high enough to get at the mounting bolts for the rear tacking strip. The strip is actually three separate pieces-one long rear strip and two short side pieces.  If you want to clean or paint...  If you want to clean or paint the top bows and mechanism, then do so now before the new materials go on. The replacement top pad for the right side is installed first. Staple only the outer edges at this time. Mr. Autocraft recommends the use of stainless steel staples to prevent any rust stains or pull-through from rusted staples.  Once the top pad has been...  Once the top pad has been secured, the pad can be opened and the actual padding carefully slipped inside and positioned.  With the pad assembled, you...  With the pad assembled, you can completely staple the pad to the bow. Finish off the pad by reinstalling the front retaining screws, and then repeat for the other side.  Now before the actual top...  Now before the actual top is installed, the new well liner kit is positioned and secured with the original hardware. The correct trim screws are readily available if you are missing any of them. Simply take inventory of what you need before you start the top replacement.  The top installation starts...  The top installation starts with the rear window. The rear window is stapled to the rear tacking strip, and the strip is temporarily bolted in. This occurs several times, so have a good ratchet. Then, the window assembly is pulled snug and stapled to the top tacking strip.  These C-pillar pads are not...  These C-pillar pads are not always included in the top pad kit, nor are they always installed. These pads give a smoother, more taut look to the sides of the top. They also are stapled to the top and bottom tacking strips. Check for properwindow-to-top clearance before stapling them, to prevent the pads from sticking out from between the window and the top.  The actual top is now ready...  The actual top is now ready to be laid in place. With the top centered on the top frame, the rearmost ends of the top are stapled to the rear tacking strip, and then the tacking strip is bolted back in again to check the fit and top length. Remember that this tack strip is taken in and out a lot, so be prepared.  To facilitate pulling the...  To facilitate pulling the original top wires back through the new top material, Mr. Autocraft uses nothing more advanced than a simple wire hanger with a hook bent into the end. Carefully pull the wire through the top and bolt the end clip back onto the frame assembly.  The top is raised and latched...  The top is raised and latched for this next step. The top is pulled and stretched until it is relatively straight and wrinkle-free. Then, the leading edge of the top is marked for where it will be folded over and stapled to the forward tacking strip.  Starting in the corners and...  Starting in the corners and working slowly to prevent creases, the top is stapled to the front tacking strip at the indicated marks. Excess top material has already been cut off, but you will see a good 5 inches of extra material on yours when you do this.  With the top unlatched and...  With the top unlatched and partially lowered, the C-pillar section of the top can be folded over and glued down to the top frame. Once the glue has set, the weatherstripping can be bolted back on over it. Don't latch the top until you do. Otherwise, the glue won't hold, and the top will pull away from the frame here.  The only remaining stapling...  The only remaining stapling left is at the rear tack strip. Staple only the corners first. Then, check the fit of the top at the top of the rear window, and staple the top into place. Make sure the window zipper is not visible with the top up. If it is, then pull the top material back down a bit and staple the top to the tacking strip to secure the adjustment.  Follow the line of staples...  Follow the line of staples you just laid into the rear tack strip, and tack down the wire-on over them. Install the wire-on so that it folds toward the back of the car. Use a rubber mallet or firm tool to ensure the wire-on is snugly folded over on itself.  To finish the wire-on installation,...  To finish the wire-on installation, either reuse your old end caps or use the new ones supplied in the kit. The retaining screw should completely pass through the wire-on, as it is used to secure the wire-on, not just beautify the edge. If your end caps are secured with nails, then replace them with stainless screws.  All three rear tacking strips...  All three rear tacking strips are bolted into place for the last time. Some models have the well liner attached to the tacking strip with staples, while others simply screw to the outside of the tacking strip. Affix the rear edge of your well liner as per the original on your car.  Reinstall the top bow steel...  Reinstall the top bow steel inserts into the new top, and then secure the top to the bows with the original screws. A punch comes in handy to locate and center the screw holes through the new top material.  Lastly, the new front bead...  Lastly, the new front bead is assembled (the kit comes with material only, and you have to have it sewn around the original or a new bead) to the leading edge of the top, and then the top weatherstrip is reattached with its retainer and trim screws. Let your top sit in the sun for a week or two to get the wrinkles out of it, and your top will be looking great in no time.
|
|
|