How To: Vintage Mustang Shock Tower Repairs

Check the patch before continuing and tap the patch as needed to keep it flush with the shock tower. When completed, you want as little filler as possible in the repair.

Using the MIG welder, Gaydos completes the patch repair in a few short minutes, alternating locations and taking short pauses to prevent heat warpage. Don't forget to weld the pilot hole closed.

The grinder is brought out once again to finish the welding repair by grinding it flush to the patch and the original shock tower area.

We simply shot some black primer onto the areas for now to bide our time against rust, but the surface will need little-if any-filler due to Classic Creations' fine work.

Reinstall all the items that were removed for access. If you removed the hood, make sure you get some help lining it up to prevent any paint damage.

Fire Safety 101
Make sure you remove all debris from under the hood during the repairs. Grinding and welding make sparks, and a loose or disconnected fuel line; old, dry leaves; or other hazards can instantly burst into flames. Worse, they can smolder for hours and burn your pride and joy to the ground later, often taking your garage, house, and even lives with it. Be careful and have a fire extinguisher ready and know how to use it.

Preventing New Holes
Now that you've repaired your shock towers and gotten rid of those embarrassing blow holes, how do you prevent someone from torching your towers all over again? Good question. Simply call your favorite Mustang vendor and order a set of 90-degree grease fittings for your upper control arms. There are two types of fittings-the standard 90-degree fitting shown here that can be difficult to install on some model years and the long-style 90-degree fitting that comes with its own installation tool, and can be easily installed with the control arms on the car.