The Nitrous Works 50-175hp...
The Nitrous Works 50-175hp adjustable EFI nitrous kit comes compete with everything you need for an easy afternoon installation. The bottle is shipped empty, along with the kit (UPS regulations).The bottle can be filled at most any performance aftermarket auto supply store. Locally, a 10-pound bottle costs about $30 to fill but may differ slightly in your area.
Everyone wants to go faster (myself included), but the first comment always made is, "but I'm on a budget." Well, of course, we all are to some extent. It takes a responsible person to keep from yanking out his credit card and buying every part he needs until the card is maxed out. The budget problem is inevitable for all of us. But we still want our performance, right? Of course we do. That's why dollar for dollar, a nitrous oxide kit adds more performance than any other single enhancement you can put on your Mustang. Most EFI Mustang nitrous kits are in the $500-$700 range for the basic setup.
But why does nitrous oxide possess the stigma that it is unsafe or difficult to tune for performance? Well, as with any story, there is a bit of lore and wives' tales that have become expanded and wilder as the years pass by. The truth is that in today's high-tech world, nitrous oxide is just as safe and easy to install (if not easier) than most any other performance enhancement. By following the kit's detailed instructions and not going outside the realm of the kit (for instance, trying to run 250hp jets in a 150hp system), nitrous oxide is a safe, inexpensive, and proven way to add horsepower and torque to your Mustang.
Several years ago, we installed a Nitrous Works adjustable EFI kit on one of our resident 5.0 Mustangs. The kit worked well but required a separate fuel pressure regulator that had to be adjusted whenever jet changes to the nitrous system were made. Nitrous Works has refined the kit by extending prebent hard lines from the solenoids to the freeze-free spray bar plate, so you don't have to find room to mount the solenoids on your cramped inner fenders. The fuel pressure regulator is no longer needed, as they have tweaked the jet sizes to work with the stock EFI fuel pressures. All in all, the system is much easier to install and less of a hassle to use. Today we install this refined adjustable nitrous kit (50-175hp levels) on a '93 5.0.
Begin the installation by...
Begin the installation by finding a suitable location to route the main bottle feed line to the engine compartment. We began at the front of the car (leaving enough line to route to the solenoids), and ran the line behind the inner fender splash shield.
Routing the nitrous feed line...
Routing the nitrous feed line in this manner gives us a better idea as to how much line we need and how the line needs to be routed to the trunk.
While the early kit used threaded...
While the early kit used threaded rod, the new kit uses longer bolts. This makes for a cleaner-looking installation to sandwich the nitrous spray bar plate between the EGR spacer and the upper intake. Remove the throttle body and the EGR spacer, and then remove the factory studs either with a stud remover or by double-nutting them and backing them out with a wrench. Don't forget to install the new gaskets as well.
This '93 5.0 had a Kenny Brown...
This '93 5.0 had a Kenny Brown strut tower brace installed. With careful installation, the Nitrous Works solenoids cleared the brace with no problems.
The throttle activation switch...
The throttle activation switch is mounted to the lower front bolt. The bracket must be bent to your particular application to allow the throttle to push the micro switch closed in order to engage the nitrous solenoids at full throttle only.
This particular nitrous kit...
This particular nitrous kit is of the "wet" variety, which means the additional fuel for the nitrous system enters the intake with the nitrous oxide. Thus a fuel feed line is required to the second solenoid. This auxiliary fuel is taken from the fuel rail test-port. With a shop rag under the fitting, remove the old fitting from the fuel rail.
Using the special fuel rail...
Using the special fuel rail fitting supplied, apply liquid pipe sealant (never use thread tape on any nitrous system fitting) to it, and then install it in the factory line.
Next, install the fuel rail...
Next, install the fuel rail fitting into the fuel rail, and tighten it to ensure a good seal. Wipe away any access sealant after the fitting has been tightened.
Install the short -4 fuel...
Install the short -4 fuel line (red line ends) between the fuel rail fitting and the solenoid marked with the word "fuel" on its body.
Attach the nitrous bottle...
Attach the nitrous bottle feed line to the other solenoid marked with the word "nitrous" on the body and tighten the fitting. Notice we've been using line wrenches. These wrenches grab the fittings on more sides and prevent crushing or rounding of the fittings. The solenoid wiring is also routed at this time to the switch and the firewall, using the easy Nitrous Works instructions.
Mounting the activation switch...
Mounting the activation switch usually means drilling a hole in the dash or in the console, but we opted to make our own mounting bracket by modifying an old dipstick tube bracket. With a simple bend and by enlarging a hole, we had a great bracket that mounted the switch under the dash and also protected it from accidental arming.
The last stage of the installation...
The last stage of the installation is to mount the 10-pound bottle in the trunk. In order to drill the mounting holes in the trunk, you will need to lower the fuel tank for safety (best accomplished with one quarter of a tank or less of fuel). Remove the passenger-side fuel tank strap and loosen the driver-side strap. Then unbolt the fuel filler neck from the body and pull it out of the tank as far as it will go. This will drop the tank about 6 inches on the right side-enough to get your hands in to tighten the bracket bolts.
Fit the bottle brackets to...
Fit the bottle brackets to the empty bottle and figure the bottle position in the trunk. Make sure the bottle clears all trunk hinges and other obstacles, and that you can access the bottle feed line. Double-check your mounting holes before drilling and mark them with a marker through the brackets (mounted on the bottle) for accuracy.
Most nitrous system installers...
Most nitrous system installers use the assembly line jig hole in the forward part of the trunk/hatch, but the Kenny Brown Panhard bar installation used the same hole. What to do? We drilled a small entry hole in the lower rear floorpan area and ran the -4 bottle feed line through this opening (with a rubber grommet), and then under the seat and into the trunk area.
Filling the nitrous bottle...
Filling the nitrous bottle requires a filling station of some sort. Most small shops will chill the bottle, and then let science work out the rest, while others have full-on pumping stations. Dynamo Motorsports accommodated us with a full 10-pound bottle that was ready to rock and roll. We also took advantage of its Dynojet chassis dyno to tune our nitrous combination.
The full bottle can now be...
The full bottle can now be seated into the bottle brackets and secured with the bottle clamps. Secure the nitrous feed line to the bottle and tighten the fitting. Then go back to the engine compartment and remove the bottle feed line from the solenoid. Have someone open the bottle valve for a few seconds to allow the line to be "blown" clean by the nitrous. Resecure the line to the solenoid, and you're ready to "spray" your competition.
Our '93 sedan is now bottle-fed...
Our '93 sedan is now bottle-fed and ready for action. The jets you use and the amount of time the bottle is on will determine how long the 10 pounds of gas will last. With use, you will gain knowledge of the system and when the bottle is low. A pressure gauge also helps matters.