Getting Ahead (er)
I have an '89 GT and I just bought new equal-length shorty headers. Do you have any tips about removing and installing them, particularly the right side? Should I remove the starter? Any help would be appreciated.
Dudley Chappell
Chicago
To be honest, I haven't had much experience installing equal-length shorty headers. I know they're more difficult to install and have a tendency to burn spark plug wires compared to regular (unequal-length) shorties. But you can begin with what I know about installing regular shorty headers on the '90 LX I had several years ago. I know I didn't have to remove the starter in my car to install them, and I don't think you'll have to either. I installed Edelbrock headers on my car and they easily dropped in from the top from under the hood. I know you'll be able to remove the stock manifolds from up top.
You'll need to remove the H-pipe far enough to unbolt it from the stock manifolds. It might be easier to just remove it from the car altogether. You'll also have to remove the oil-pan dipstick tube from the block. It attaches via one of the manifold (or header) bolts, so this doesn't really take any extra time. Have some lubricant available such as WD-40 to help loosen rusty bolts. Since you're in Chicago, I'd imagine your car would have a few pesky bolts on the exhaust system that could be tough to loosen due to rust.
As for the right side, it's not that much different from the left (driver side), except you'll have to remove the thermactor tubing that mounts above the header and remove the thermactor tube that snakes down to the H-pipe. Two other things that'll make the installation much easier: Be sure to get all the bolts started on the headers once they're installed before you tighten any of them. And if you have access to a hoist, it'll make the job much less laborious compared to doing the work underneath the car while on your back.
No Brace Required?
My '98 Cobra carries VIN 1FAFP46V0WF209315, and overall, I really love the car. My question is, why did Ford and SVT decide to eliminate the strut tower brace in 1998? Not only did they do away with the brace, they left the dimple in the air intake tube that allows clearance for the brace! Since my car is a convertible, it needs all the bracing it can get to minimize cowl shake and to improve handling. The car rides great and is a smooth, powerful performer, but sometimes it feels quite loosey-goosey compared to my '94 GT convertible that has a factory strut brace. I've added a set of subframe connectors and would like to install a strut brace on my Cobra; however, there are so many, I don't know which one to go with. Furthermore, I'm worried about drilling into the metal in the towers (since I've heard the earlier cars rust in this area). Could you guys at Mustang Monthly do some research and possibly a how-to article on installing a popular aftermarket strut tower brace for us '98 Cobra owners who want to firm up the handling? Thanks for any help you may have.
Ron Wahl
Via the Internet
After having spoken with someone who was once a product planner with Ford, we both agreed that Ford basically eliminated the strut brace as a cost-cutting measure. Go figure, I guess. I would certainly agree that it's kind of a chintzy thing to do, especially on a Cobra convertible, the most expensive production Mustang of all.
As for drilling holes in your shock towers to install a strut brace, I wouldn't really worry about it. Once the brace is on the car, I don't think rust will be a problem, unless you drive on wintery roads with a lot of salt. I installed a strut brace on my '90 LX sedan; it wasn't a hassle and there were no problems with rust.
Therefore, I recommend you install a strut brace on your Cobra ASAP. While I'm not 100-percent certain that every one of the following companies offers a brace, I'm certain that among them you'll find at least one-in fact, Steeda mentions them right in its ad in our sister mag 5.0 Mustang and Super Fords. I'd also add that any of these firms would sell you a quality piece, and anything is certainly better than nothing. I'll list each alphabetically providing the name, phone number, and Web site. You might also be able to order one from Ford at a dealership parts counter or from Ford Racing Performance Parts.
* Global West Suspension Systems, (909) 349-2090, www.globalwest.net
* HP Motorsport, (402) 731-7301, www.hpmotorsport.com
* Saleen, (800) 888-8945, www.saleen.com
* Steeda Autosports, (954) 960-0774, www.steeda.com
Considering the Pace
I'm considering restoring a '79 Indy Pace Car with a 302 engine and an automatic transmission. I haven't bought the project car yet, so I don't know the VIN. Are there any parts suppliers for this model-year Mustang and who are they? Those that I have contacted concentrate on '64-'73 Mustangs and others that have some pieces are pretty limited in scope. I already know I need the front air spoiler, but I can't locate one. Any info you have will be greatly appreciated.
Dave Davis
Via the Internet
We're starting to see an increased interest in the restoration of '79-'85 carbureted Mustangs. And why not? These are interesting cars, because they really got Ford back on the performance map in the mid-'80s after the Milquetoast Mustang IIs, which were made from 1974-'78. But they're relatively new and the movement to restore these cars is still in its infancy.
But never fear. There are people out there who hear you and these three parts houses could be a good place to get you started. As I recently told another reader who was looking for parts for his '87 LX 5.0, try Mustang Parts Specialties in Georgia (www.stangparts.com), Late-Model Restoration Supply in Texas [(866) 507-3786], or Performance Parts Inc. (PPI) [www.mustangparts.com] in Virginia. Late-Model Restoration Supply doesn't have a Web site yet. There are also advertisers in Mustang Monthly or in our sister magazine 5.0 Mustang and Super Fords that might be able to help you.
Cover Me
I own an '86 GT convertible. The car is a daily driver with only about 86,000 miles and is mostly original except for the paint and the top. I've owned the car for approximately four years, and I think it spent some of its early years in Florida. As a result, the exposure to sunlight has faded the red cloth considerably. Do you have any ideas where I might find either the original seat covers or a close approximation of the originals? I've tried Ford, but the covers are no longer available. I've also looked through several catalogs, but haven't come up with anything yet. Any help you might have would be greatly appreciated. I enjoy your magazine, especially the late-model section.Bob Ostrander
Jericho, VT
You and Dave Davis, the gentleman I replied to above, are part of the new interest in late-model Fox-body restoration that's on the upswing. It's a great thing, and I'm happy to see it happening.
I'd basically advise you to start with the same people I referred Dave to above: Mustang Parts Specialties in Georgia, Late-Model Restoration Supply in Texas,or Performance Parts Inc. (PPI) in Virginia. These companies are thinking on the same track as you and other enthusiasts who are interested in preserving these cars. Good luck in your search.
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