Beginning in 1968, Ford stamped...
Beginning in 1968, Ford stamped the VIN into the engine blocks of all Mustangs. Prior to 1968, only high-performance Mustang engine blocks were stamped with the VIN. This, coupled with matching casting numbers and date codes, seals the deal.
Matching numbers mean more...
Matching numbers mean more than just engine blocks. The inner fender VIN should match the warranty plate or certification sticker on the door. If there is a body buck tag attached to the inner fender or radiator support, the VIN should match.
Not all warranty plates are...
Not all warranty plates are transferred to the new door when the door is replaced. Expect some irregularities when you're searching.
If you're seriously considering a '67-'73 Mustang, contact Kevin Marti of Marti Auto Works (12007 W. Peoria, El Mirage, AZ 85335; 623/935-2558), and spend approximately $50 for Kevin's production report on the Mustang. His vast Ford database will yield all factory information about the vehicle you are considering, including color, interior, options, original delivery location, and more. Kevin's research will tell you if it was originally a Mach 1, GT, or Grabber, for example. It will also tell you if it was a Drag Pak car or a freeway cruiser, if it had air conditioning, and whether it was rolling on Magnum 500s or on steel wheels with dog-dish hubcaps.
Build It!
If you've never built a Mustang before, don't be intimidated by the experience; this is going to be fun. It will also be a source of great frustration, so be prepared. Our advice is to take the good with the bad, and make the most of it.
All car-building experiences must begin with a plan, without which you can count on excess spending and wasted time. With your new purchase parked in the driveway or garage, evaluate the car as it sits. Then decide what you want the car to be. Do you want the car factory stock or tastefully modified? Are you going to drive it, or will it be the weekend trailer car? The car's use determines how it should be built.
A Mustang driven occasionally can tolerate less engine, driveline, suspension, and brakes than one driven all the time. By this, we mean you can forego the heavy expense of a roller camshaft and hardened exhaust valve seats if you're building an occasional driver or trailered car. You can opt for stock springs, shocks, and brakes if you're building a trailered car, because handling won't matter.
When checking out a potential...
When checking out a potential buy, understand what surface rust can mean. Sometimes, it's an easy fix. Other times, it's major league-just the tip of the iceberg. Bubbles of rust in the paint and body filler typically mean big trouble underneath. Don't be afraid-with the seller's permission-to poke these areas with a screwdriver.
With this in mind, we suggest if you're building a Mustang to be trailered or occasionally weekend driven, go the extra mile and do the things that make it a more reliable, fun to drive automobile, because you never know when the urge to drive is going to hit. For example, what happens when your Mustang buddies invite you to drive with them to Nashville to celebrate the Mustang's 40th anniversary next April? If you restore your Mustang on the cheap, will it be up for the drive? Build a Mustang as though you were going to drive it daily, even if you aren't.
A Mustang's structural soundness...
A Mustang's structural soundness is apparent at a glance. Look down each side from bumper to bumper. Crooked body lines, sloppy gaps, and wavy panels are an indication of structural damage beneath the surface. This '66 Mustang hardtop appears relatively straight. Closer inspection of the door alignment tells us something different.
Building your first Mustang isn't just about having a nice car to show and drive; it's about gaining self confidence because you've taken on challenges you've never dared to attempt before. For example, did you know you can rebuild your own engine? All you need is the help and advice of a seasoned machine shop. What about building a new suspension system and brakes? How about bodywork and paint? Did you know you can do these things yourself?
Building your Mustang begins with disassembly, photo documentation, and carefully cataloging all parts in containers. Even parts you expect to throw away should be retained until the car is reassembled. This enables you to recall how things go together.
Bodywork and paint should always be handled first because it is the messiest job in a restoration. While the bodywork is being performed, tackle other important elements, like the engine, transmission, and rear axle. Rebuild these components while the car is away at the body shop. If you're doing the bodywork yourself, separate and organize each area, keeping the dust and filth from the bodywork away from the component rebuilding.
Often, some of the best deals...
Often, some of the best deals are unfinished projects. With many, the toughest part of the restoration is complete-especially if they are painted bodies ready for assembly. The seller's misfortune can be your good fortune. Unfinished projects turn up for sale because people run out of enthusiasm or experience an unfortunate turn of events, like job loss or divorce. Be mindful of unfinished projects because they can be good deals for less money.
When it's time to tackle the engine and driveline, think about what you want the car to do. If you're seeking good low-end torque from a stealthy Mustang, consider a stroker kit, which will increase your engine's displacement without changing its external size. Pump a 289 or 302ci small-block up to 347 ci. If you're building a 351 Windsor or Cleveland, you can increase displacement to as high as 427 ci. Your engine doesn't have to be radical, either. Even in mild street-driven condition, your stroker small-block can make the torque of a big-block.
Buying and restoring a classic...
Buying and restoring a classic Mustang can bring you togetherness because you're among people with like interest. This is something you can get the entire family involved in.
Getting young people involved...
Getting young people involved in your car project contributes to the future of the hobby. The late Ted Overstreet, of Arlington, Washington, who passed away last January, shared his passion for Mustangs with young people, including his neighbor, Tammy Johnston. Ted introduced Tammy to Mustangs, showing her the ropes and inspiring her to tackle her first car.
Tackling your first car project...
Tackling your first car project exposes you to all kinds of new experiences. For example, did you know you can rebuild your own differential?
Learning how to tackle a restoration...
Learning how to tackle a restoration by yourself begins with vehicle disassembly. Take it one step at a time. Document your progress by taking pictures of every area of your Mustang as it comes apart. With each phase, you will learn more and develop new confidence in your abilities.
Restoration projects go easier...
Restoration projects go easier with planning and organization. Catalog all your Mustang's parts in containers. Follow the process with photos. Purchase a Ford shop manual and a Mustang assembly manual, which will help you understand how things go together.
As segments of your Mustang...
As segments of your Mustang are disassembled, you'll start to understand how it was assembled. Once you learn how, the process becomes easier. Compared to today's new cars, vintage Mustangs are simple.
When a restoration is well...
When a restoration is well organized, you can compartmentalize your efforts. While the body is away at a body shop, tackle the engine, transmission, and rear axle.
There are so many phases of...
There are so many phases of a restoration. Aside from engine and driveline, you have the electrical system, interior, door and window mechanicals, and more. Here, the fuel-tank sending unit is installed in a new tank.