What can you do about flickering lights, a dead sound system, psychotic instruments, undependable turn signals, and horns that don't always work?
Our classic Mustang electrical systems are notorious for grief and frustration, mainly because most are now reaching four decades of service. After 40 years, insulation becomes brittle, exposed copper corrodes, terminals become pitted, and electrical tape begins to roll off. With all of these elements in play, there's potential for problems, even disaster. Exposed copper wiring can ground out against the body or chassis, smoking the harness and starting a fire. Brittle wiring can break, thrusting you into darkness on the roadside. And imagine a bad wiper connection in a rainstorm.
We visited JMC Motorsports in San Diego, California, while they were installing a new stock electrical system from Mustangs Plus. Replacing a vintage Ford's factory electrical system is easy because everything plugs together one way. Firewall connections are easy to pop out and in, and switches plug in quickly. Almost anyone can do it.
When we arrived at JMC Motorsports, the old electrical system had already been removed. Removal of the old system isn't that difficult. It begins with disconnecting the battery. We suggest shooting photographs of your Ford's old electrical system before removal. Zero in on the instrument wiring and everything behind the dashboard. Because Ford designed this stuff for rapid assembly on an assembly line, plugs mate only one way. Grounds speak for themselves, especially when you photograph them before removal. Firewall plugs mate at the firewall to tie the underdash main wiring loom to the headlamp and engine looms. Plugs that tie the main wiring loom to the taillight harness are also behind the dashboard on the left side. The turn-signal switch plugs into the main wiring loom at the base of the steering column.
Always examine potential problem areas before they can arise. For example, we've seen fuse-box screws accidentally run through wiring, causing a short circuit. We have also witnessed wire chafing, which caused the wiring to ground out. Though reproduction wiring looms are wrapped and protected exactly like the originals, we can make them even safer. Plastic antichafe can be used to minimize contact, and you can also wrap the wiring loom with electrical tape for greater protection. Examine how the wiring is routed, which can also be a factor in protection. Sharp metal edges can chew right through wiring, especially when you consider road shock and vibration.
Fan Facts
There is certainly...
Fan Facts
There is certainly some confusion when it comes to '65-'66 Mustang heater fans and switches. For early '65 Mustangs with center-off, two-speed fans, speed control happens at the fan motor. This means we have a three-wire motor, with two wires for speed control and one wire for ground. When Ford went to a three-speed, left-off fan switch, it went to a two-wire fan motor and a resistor pack located in the heater box. It's important to understand these differences when you are ordering a wiring system from Mustangs Plus.
Dave does the same thing on...
Dave does the same thing on the righthand side, connecting the parking lamp and ground.
Horn leads are routed through...
Horn leads are routed through the radiator support and connected.
At the radiator support, there...
At the radiator support, there are two grounds. Connect both, using the proper hex-head sheetmetal screw with a star washer for solid continuity.
Bad grounds, often caused...
Bad grounds, often caused by bad connections or no ground at all, create all sorts of electrical-system gremlins.
The voltage regulator installs...
The voltage regulator installs with two hex-head sheetmetal screws. There is also a ground, shown here.
Ford installed a radio-noise...
Ford installed a radio-noise suppressor to minimize static and hum from the charging system. Make sure the ground is solid.
The charging-system segment...
The charging-system segment of the harness is fed through the unibody's front framerail box. Make sure you have plenty of protection around the wiring where this loom enters and exits the box. This terminates at the starter solenoid and alternator.
Dave installs the new starter...
Dave installs the new starter solenoid. Because so many suffer from stripped-out screw holes, they need tinnerman's nuts on the back side.
With the fender installed,...
With the fender installed, the tinnerman's nut cannot be seen.
Wire-loom loops have a special...
Wire-loom loops have a special madness when it comes to proper installation. Dave uses a 5/16-inch socket to press them into place. The loop should always hang down, never up. When you position the loop up, it stresses the loop, resulting in failure-especially in a hot engine compartment.
The alternator harness is...
The alternator harness is next. Each Mustang engine calls for different harness routing on the back of the alternator, so check your Ford shop manual. The most important thing to remember is solid connections that are protected. Ascertain proper connections as well before connecting the battery.
Fan Facts
There is certainly some confusion when it comes to '65-'66 Mustang heater fans and switches. For early '65 Mustangs with center-off, two-speed fans, speed control happens at the fan motor. This means we have a three-wire motor, with two wires for speed control and one wire for ground. When Ford went to a three-speed, left-off fan switch, it went to a two-wire fan motor and a resistor pack located in the heater box. It's important to understand these differences when you are ordering a wiring system from Mustangs Plus.