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How To Replace Floorpans

What you need to know to replace floorpans
By Jim Smart
Photography by Chris Richardson
173 0411 Pan 1 Z
Rust Busters begins with the seat pans by drilling out the spot welds.Along the transmission tunnel, conventional welds are ground clear. Spotwelds have to be drilled out carefully, which separates the pans.

173 0411 Pan 2 Z
This shows just what a throwaway car Mustangs were 40 years ago.Absolutely no corrosion prevention here--just raw steel that was neverprimed or painted. Note the stamped opening in the seat pan of Art'searly production '64 1/2 hardtop. This went away later in production.

173 0411 Pan 3 Z
Rust Busters begins the process of cutting out the floorpan along thetransmission tunnel. The pan is carefully cut as close to the seams aspossible. The objective should always be to follow the factory seams.
173 0411 Pan 4 Z
The main floorpan is cut out in pieces.
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Expect more surprises underneath the floorpans. Rust Busters separatesthe floorpan from the front framerail extension. They learned quicklythat both front framerails had to be replaced as well.
173 0411 Pan 6 Z
With all of the floorpan cut out, it's easy to see how a Mustangunit-body is put together. With hardtops and fastbacks, there isn't muchthere. Note the front framerail extension, which ties the frontframerail to the floorpan.
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The front framerail extensions were filled with a mountain of rustparticles. They'll be replaced as a separate how-to article in MustangMonthly at a later date.
173 0411 Pan 8 Z
What's left of the main floorpan is peeled away from the rocker panel.Some patchwork rust repair will be necessary.
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The rear torque boxes are separated and opened like this. The easiestway is to drill out the spot-welds, then nail it with an impact chisellike this.
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Rust Busters uses a straightedge to cut and trim the transmissiontunnel for the new sheetmetal. There's a lot of work to do here.
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Mating surfaces are cleaned up and readied for the installation ofnew metal from National Parts Depot.

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