How To Install Baer Four-Wheel Disc Brakes

Next, the new rotors can slip on, again temporarily held by a wheel nut until the caliper goes on. Note the use of the black centering ring (arrow) to make the rotor hubcentric around the axle.

The caliper can now be positioned over the rotor and secured to the mounting brackets from the rear, with two supplied bolts.

The kit's new parking-brake cable and hydraulic flex line have been attached/plumbed to the caliper. The kit provides a bracket and stainless band clamp to secure the junction point between flex and hard brake lines to the axle tube. Craig had to make up a new hard line from this junction to the left/right splitter junction near the center of the axle-housing.

Though not quite as big as the new fronts, the rear Baer discs look and work worlds better than the old drums. But we're not quite done yet.

Underhood, the original master cylinder must be unbolted from the vacuum booster and replaced with the kit version. New lines to the pressure differential valve on the inner fender must be bent up, as the new cylinder's fluid ports are on the opposite (passenger) side.

Finally, the factory proportioning valve (arrow) must be taken out of the brake fluid circuit in favor of the kit's manually adjustable replacement. If left in, the OEM proportioning valve would provide too little line pressure to the rear discs, and if removed altogether, too much hydraulic pressure would go rearward.