It's safe to say that the biggest vintage Mustang sore spot-outside of leaking cowl vents and failed window mechanisms-is unreliable clutch operation. It can be said that '65-'73 Mustang clutches are among the worst to come out of Detroit. From the factory, they had stiff pedals, erratic operation, and frustration unequalled as they began to wear. If you were hell-bent to go fast in a classic four-speed, you learned the task would never be easy.
To improve clutch engagement in old Mustangs, we opted for high-performance clutches. These made the factory clutch linkages fail, sending us to the Ford dealer for a new equalizer shaft-also called a Z-bar-which promptly broke under the strain of the high-performance clutch. To solve that problem, we welded on more steel to make them stronger. Ultimately, our performance improvements did little to fix the problem. So what can be done about chronic Mustang clutch operation?
Clutch Woe Worries & Solutions
Old three-finger Borg & Beck and long-style clutches did an excellent job of engagement for mild-mannered and high-performance engines alike. Mustang linkages were never designed to operate with these heavy-duty clutches. Old equalizer shafts, rods, and forks remain a study in bad physics and convoluted geometry, as the design doesn't work well 43 years later. Pushrods at the pedal and clutch fork wear rapidly and buckle under strain. Equalizer shafts are structurally ineffective and don't provide enough mechanical advantage or leverage against the power of a high-performance clutch. When examining the pedal support assembly, it becomes more apparent why clutch linkage failure occurs: Ford designed a woefully inadequate clutch-release system.
Under the dash, the pedal support assembly isn't up to the job, either. The pivot pin rides on plastic bushings that don't hold up under the strain. When the plastic bushings wear out, metal-to-metal contact causes severe wear.
Success comes from having good, serviceable parts. To achieve smooth operation, replace worn-out pedal supports, equalizer shafts, and other parts with new components. Service the new parts with plenty of white grease and use the felt seals provided with the kit. Make sure your clutch is properly adjusted, and periodically check it when you do a tune-up or brake job. Then enjoy the drive.
Clutch Troubleshooter
Clutch problems are easy to solve when you are armed with information. Why do clutches chatter and slip? What's that strange noise? Why does the clutch disengage only when the pedal reaches the floor? Why won't the clutch disengage? Why is there gear clash when I upshift? Here are potential problems and solutions.
Clutch performance issues are rooted mostly in wear and a bad design. When pressure plate springs grow weak through time and use, they don't hold the disc as firmly as they once did. Clutch friction discs wear out, similar to brake shoes and pads. When they become glazed, they become ineffective. Mustang clutch problems are mostly due to Ford engineers specifying a heavy-duty clutch for a light-duty linkage. Three-finger clutches create a lot of pedal pressure and are stiff because they're designed for a heavy-duty release mechanism. Not even high-performance Mustang applications had that kind of clutch-release mechanism.
The complaint we hear most is clutch chatter, which generally indicates improper adjustment. It could also come from a binding linkage. If you still have chatter once proper adjustment is accomplished, the clutch pilot bushing and transmission input-shaft bearing are the final suspects.
Here's a typical Mustang clutch...
Here's a typical Mustang clutch linkage. The weakest link is the equalizer bar, which is a mechanical disadvantage because it doesn't provide enough leverage. Ford made minor engineering revisions to the clutch linkage during the '67-'72 model years, yet it is still insufficient. These underrated mechanisms folded over, even with stock clutches.
This is a look at the clutch...
This is a look at the clutch pushrod and fork for 1965. That first year, and in early 1966, Ford located the clutch adjustment on top. This is a modified clutch linkage.
A closer look at the pushrod...
A closer look at the pushrod and clutch fork from the mid-'66 and up models shows the helper spring keeping the pushrod and fork in contact and in solid adjustment. As the clutch wears, the fit between the rod and clutch fork needs to be tightened. Adjustment was relocated underneath during 1966.
A six-cylinder bellhousing...
A six-cylinder bellhousing tied to a Ford Top Loader three-speed manual transmission is shown here. Note the clutch release fork and bearing. The fork pivots, pressing the release bearing into clutch release fingers.
Here's a late-model '74-'95...
Here's a late-model '74-'95 Mustang bellhousing and clutch release fork. Instead of a rod pressing on the fork, this is a cable clutch set-up, pulling into the clutch release fingers.
Stop The Chatter Whenever...
Stop The Chatter
Whenever you have clutch chatter, check adjustment first. Also check the integrity of the clutch linkage. A binding linkage can cause chatter. After these items, look at the clutch pilot bearing and transmission input-shaft bearing. Sideplay in the input shaft will cause chatter, as will a glazed clutch disc and pressure plate. Also, any lubrication that gets on the clutch disc and pressure plate will cause slippage and chatter. Smooth engagement comes from smooth operation.
Clutch Adjustment
Proper clutch adjustment is the key to clutch survival and proper operation. As clutches wear or are replaced, they require adjustment.
Adjustment begins with what you feel and hear. With the engine running, slowly step on the clutch pedal. Take note of when you can feel the vibration of the engine's rotation through the pedal. The point between touching the pedal and feeling engine rpm is called free travel. That's the time when nothing happens, right before clutch release-bearing contact. When there is a problem with free travel, the adjustment rod needs to be changed to get it within specs.
Although Ford has an involved approach to clutch adjustment, we're more seat-of-the-pants about it. There's an easier way. Clutch adjustment boils down to feel and preference. It should never be adjusted where the release bearing-also called a throwout bearing-is constantly touching the clutch fingers or diaphragm. This will cause premature wear and failure. Turn the clutch-rod adjustment to where pedal free travel is a minimum of 7/8 inch for the '65, or 1/2 inch for model years '66-'73. You want a maximum of 1 1/8-inches of free travel. The amount you come up with depends on what's comfortable to you.
For '65 and early '66 models, clutch adjustment is at the pushrod coming through the firewall. Adjust the equalizer bar fore or aft to get 7/8- to 1 1/8-inches of free travel. With each adjustment, raise engine speed to 2,000 rpm. If you can feel the engine just touching the pedal, free travel isn't enough. That's when you must back the adjustment off to get the release bearing out of the clutch fingers/diaphragm.
Beginning in the '66 model year, Ford revised the clutch release linkage, moving adjustment to the clutch fork, where it stayed through 1973. The same situation applies here: adjust the rod tighter to reduce, or looser to increase free travel.
Once the adjustment is made, work the clutch several times with the engine running, then see how much free travel you have. Remember, the amount you have is a personal preference. Some don't like much, while others like it sloppy. Ford's limits apply in all cases.
This is a typical three-finger...
This is a typical three-finger clutch Ford originally installed in classic Mustangs. It is a good, reliable clutch, but it's too stiff for a classic Mustang's bellcrank clutch- release linkage.
The Centerforce dual-friction...
The Centerforce dual-friction clutch is a diaphragm/ flyweight design and is the best clutch we've ever used. Though diaphragm alone is nothing new, the flyweight/super-gripper design is. Grip increases with engine rpm. The Centerforce design eases pedal effort and releases linkage strain.
Ford used this type of three-finger...
Ford used this type of three-finger clutch, known as long-style, in '65 six-cylinder applications.
Quick Clutch Tech
There are three basic kinds of clutches: Borg & Beck, long, and diaphragm. We're inclined to add a fourth: Centerforce, a diaphragm-style clutch that grips better with rpm. Flyweights tied to the diaphragm increase grip with engine rpm and is a great innovation in clutch design. This is basically the only clutch we ever use.
Three-finger Borg & Beck and long-style clutches are more traditional designs. They work well, but are hard on clutch-release linkage. Although they were original equipment, they aren't the best for a classic Mustang.
Clutch Linkage Identification
When we headed to Mustangs, Etc. to learn all we could about clutch release mechanisms, we thought it would be a simple task. It wasn't. Not only was there an equalizer shaft for each type of engine, but also engineering changes from year to year. Ford struggled with warranty issues and customer criticisms regarding clutches. With each crop of complaints, the company went back to the drawing board and made changes in design.
On the left is a 289 High...
On the left is a 289 High Performance clutch equalizer shaft, which is designed to clear Hi-Po manifolds. At the right is a standard 260/289 shaft. The difference is clear.
Here is a '65 six-cylinder...
Here is a '65 six-cylinder shaft, which is longer than a V-8.
Ford completely redesigned...
Ford completely redesigned the clutch release mechanism for the '71-'73 models. Instead of moving through the firewall, it runs down through the toeboard. At left is a six-cylinder, and at right is small-block V-8-actually, it's a V-8 Fairlane/Torino equalizer shaft. Mustang is similar.
Pushrods evolved with engineering...
Pushrods evolved with engineering changes. From left to right: '65 and early '66 with an adjustable pedal pushrod, '66 no-adjust, '67-'68 no-adjust, and '69-'70 no-adjust.
In mid-'66, Ford moved clutch...
In mid-'66, Ford moved clutch adjustment down at the fork for ease of service. The company also eliminated the eyelet, which meant changing the clutch pedal rod to a no-adjust design. That makes '66 a modified version of the '65 equalizer shaft. When you buy a reproduction equalizer shaft for your mid-'66 and up Mustang, you must remove this eyelet.
For '67-'70, Ford revised...
For '67-'70, Ford revised the Mustang's clutch equalizer shaft to this design. From left to right is the six-cylinder, small-block, and big-block. There's a separate part number for 289 High Performance to clear the manifolds. The big-block gets a larger shaft diameter. The six-cylinder is longer, similar to the '65-'66. The 351W and 351C for '69-'70 got unique equalizer shafts not shown here.
At the clutch fork, we have...
At the clutch fork, we have a variety of clutch rods. From left to right are: '65 and early '66 no-adjust, '66 adjust, '67 unthreaded block, '68 threaded block, and '69-'70 without the threaded block.
From '65-'73, there were two...
From '65-'73, there were two basic types of clutch forks. From '65-'67, they were kept with a wire retainer, which was a frustrating design to service. Beginning in '68, Ford went to an improved slip-on pivot design (right).
Big-block clutch forks require...
Big-block clutch forks require length and more meat. Shown here are two basic big-block clutch forks. Left is for a 390 High Performance. On the right is a 428 Cobra Jet. The 390 fork has pivot holes designed for '67 (before the Cobra Jet). The Cobra Jet fork doesn't have pivot wire holes. These forks are interchangeable with minor mods. They have identical stampings.
Cable Conversion D.B. Performance...
Cable Conversion
D.B. Performance Engineering in Los Angeles offers a cable clutch conversion kit for classic Mustangs. You'll also need a late-model 5.0-liter bellhousing, clutch fork, and release bearing. Fit your Mustang with a diaphragm-style clutch while you're at it. The kit includes a modified, easy-to-install pedal support, shown here with the self-adjusting cable.
Solutions For Sloppy Pedals...
Solutions For Sloppy Pedals
Scott Drake Reproductions offers this pedal improvement kit for '65-'73 Mustangs, available from Mustangs Plus. It consists of needle bearing pivots, a hard shaft, and installation hardware. You can remove your pedal assembly and complete this modification in an afternoon.
Going Hydraulic JMC Motorsports...
Going Hydraulic
JMC Motorsports in San Diego, California, makes it easy to convert from bellcrank clutching to hydraulic in short order. This hydraulic-clutch conversion kit is trouble-free when installing and servicing because everything is easy to access.
JMC's slave cylinder is a...
JMC's slave cylinder is a cinch to access and install. Shown here is a T5, but this kit is designed for virtually all manual-shift classic Mustangs.
Using your existing pedal...
Using your existing pedal assembly, JMC Motorsports' hydraulic clutch is simple to install and service. Be sure to keep the master cylinder full of fluid.