Classic Mustang Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation - How To: Install Four-Wheel Disc Brakes

24 Rotors and bearings are installed. To properly seat bearings and ensure safe installation, Chris spins the rotors while torquing and seating bearings. If the rotor is hard to turn, the bearings are not seated properly. While turning the rotor, torque bearings to 15-20 ft-lb. Then back the nut to the next cotter-pin location in the castle nut.

25 We've seen a lot of brake jobs in 35 years. We've also seen cotter pins bent and twisted more ways than you can imagine. When it comes to securing wheel-bearing adjustment castle nuts and cages, Ford recommends one way: with both legs wrapped around the castle nut as shown. The best alternative is with one leg straight down at 6 o'clock and the other leg coming straight up the axle tip to 12 o'clock.

26 Force 10 brake pads install just like '65-'67 four-piston Kelsey-Hayes types. Pads drop in like this, secured with a flexible retainer. This makes future pad replacement a snap.

27 Front-brake hoses install just like the rears with a copper washer positioned as shown. Copper washers "crush" better than any other metal, filling in irregularities and preventing leakage.

28 The front calipers are installed and torqued to SSBC specifications. Check caliper-to-rotor clearances, getting the caliper centered on the rotor. You want a minimum of 1/4-inch clearance because the rotor expands with heat.

29 SSBC has everything you need to get pressure to your new Force 10s. Shown here is a brake-pressure gauge, adjustable proportioning valve, and all the presealed fittings.

30 SSBC's power booster is bench-assembled first, beginning with the adjustable pushrod, which is adjusted after installation.

31 Chris installs the power booster, securing bolts at the firewall. SSBC shows you how to adjust the master cylinder rod in the instructions. The master cylinder pushrod should be adjusted to where it lays inside the master-cylinder piston cup-just touching the cup-without pressure.