When we photographed Chris Radcliffe's Raven Black '65 Mustang hardtop two years ago in San Diego, we were awed with his craftsmanship. Chris is a young man with limited auto-motive experience, yet he built a classic Mustang restomod in his spare time by asking questions, learning as he went, and using his natural talent.
We couldn't help but notice Chris' brake situation when we photographed his car. Through the American Torq-Thrust II spokes were four humble-looking drum brakes. We asked Chris if he'd like to try a set of Stainless Steel Brake Corporation's Force 10 disc brakes from Mustangs Plus. Considering Chris' car-building talent, we knew he could do the job himself.
The Stainless Steel Disc Brakes Force 10 system yields the performance you expect from one of the best names in the aftermarket disc-brake business. Force 10s can be installed on any of the classic Mustang spindles and axle flanges, except for '65-'66 six-cylinders. For Chris' hardtop, we opted for four-piston fronts and single-piston rears for the kind of driving he expects to do. His is the quintessential occasional driver and show car. The red calipers of the Force 10s tie in nicely with the car's black and red theme. Natural, black, and yellow are also available.
We went for slotted rotors, optional from Stainless Steel Brakes, to vent off gasses and heat during hard braking. Not only do they look sharp, they also provide fade-free braking.
Why Bench Bleeding
Many of us are guilty of installing a new master cylinder right out of the box. Did you know doing that runs the risk of having unwanted trapped air in the braking system? Air must be removed from the master cylinder prior to installation. All you have to do is locate the master cylinder in a bench vice, fill it with fluid, and slowly press the piston, as shown here. Watch the bubbles pass from the cylinder back into the reservoir. Once all air traffic is gone, the cylinder is bled and ready for installation, but install and secure the cap first.