The up-on-stilts ride height that all late-model Mustangs have leaves something to be desired. Whether it's a Fox-body car, an SN-95, or the new S197 Mustang, they all benefit with the mildest ride-height adjustments.
By mild, we mean a drop of about an inch or so-maybe less for cars that will be driven daily by some of us older folks who might not want the "all hangin' out" look. While some springs lower a car too much, there are brands that go a little ways without going too far.
Shown here are the Steeda...
Shown here are the Steeda springs that provide the mild lowering rather than a radical drop. The Tokico D-spec rear shocks and front struts are fully adjustable over a range of about seven turns with the supplied adjusting tool, visible between the front struts.
It's no secret that the best way to lower a late-model Mustang is to replace its stock springs with a set from the aftermarket. It's also a good idea to augment the swap with a set of top-quality front struts and rear shocks, which often improves the ride and prevents the "baby buggy" effect that sometimes happens when only the springs are replaced.
While we looked in on a spring and strut/shock replacement on a Fox-body 5.0 in our May '05 issue ("How To Install Fox-body Shocks, Springs, and Caster/Camber Plates," p. 66), we thought we'd take another look at the procedure using the latest version of our favorite car. There's a lot of good news here. One of the main things is that on an '05-'07 Mustang, the swap project is notably easier than on the other late-models. Further-more, swapping out the rear springs is a downright snap, taking about five minutes for both sides.
Steeda's camber plates (PN...
Steeda's camber plates (PN 555-8096) attach to the side of the strut, allowing camber adjustment when a car is lowered. Camber bolts change alignment settings and produce inconsistent handling and tire wear under load.
We don't pull off these how-to articles totally on our own. We typically have a lot of help from a performance shop that knows Mustangs up, down, and all around. For this project, the helping hand came from our friends at JBA Performance Center, a fully equipped shop in the San Diego area. The new, larger location is at the center of the San Diego performance scene and is of the same lineage as JBA Headers.
Not only did JBA have a customer's '06 GT on hand, but the shop had everything in stock, including Steeda springs and camber plates and a set of Tokico D-spec adjust-able front struts and rear shocks. Everything was installed in about three hours.
With the car on a hoist at...
With the car on a hoist at JBA, we began by unbolting the shocks from the rearend and then supporting the side of the axle with a screw jack.
Next, the antisway bar is...
Next, the antisway bar is unbolted above the rearend. It's then swung down and allowed to hang.
At this point, the springs...
At this point, the springs are practically ready to fall out of the car.
The Steeda spring installs...
The Steeda spring installs in place of the stock unit. Since it's shorter, it easily goes into position. It's temporarily secured in place by raising the rear axle before beginning the shock removal.
Inside the trunk and under...
Inside the trunk and under the mat, the top of the rear shock is accessed and unbolted. At this point, the stock shock comes out.
Installing the Tokico D-spec...
Installing the Tokico D-spec shocks is a simple replacement procedure.
The stem is held in place...
The stem is held in place with a wrench, and the supplied nut is tightened securely to complete the work inside the trunk. Under the car, the new shocks are reattached to the rearend, and the antisway bar is reinstalled to complete the job at the back of the car.
Moving up front with the wheels...
Moving up front with the wheels off, the ABS sensor-wire clip is removed from the strut.
Next, unbolt the antisway...
Next, unbolt the antisway bar link from the front strut...
...followed by the brake-line...
...followed by the brake-line support bracket that also attaches to the strut.
With the small pieces out...
With the small pieces out of the way, the two 14mm bolts that hold the strut to the spindle are detached.
Once the bolts are removed,...
Once the bolts are removed, the spindle and strut are separated, as shown here.
Underhood, the four bolts...
Underhood, the four bolts on top of the strut tower are taken off. One trick JBA showed us was removing three bolts and leaving the fourth one loosely in place so you can get a handle on the strut before it drops out. You can also have a helper hold it for you.
With the four nuts and two...
With the four nuts and two 14mm bolts detached, the strut and spring assembly is removed all at once. It's considerably easier than having to deal with releasing coil-spring tension in the car, as must be done on Fox and SN-95 Mustangs.
Using a strut coil-spring...
Using a strut coil-spring compressor, the front spring is compressed to release tension on the upper strut mount. With the spring secured, the nut holding the upper strut mount can be removed, and tension is safely released via the compressor.
Whatever struts are used (either...
Whatever struts are used (either stock or, in our case, these new Tokicos), the openings in the strut for the lower bolt attachments need to be elongated for the camber plates. This allows the struts to be moved as the plates and shims allow. Using a plate as a template, mark the area that needs to be elongated, as shown here.
Remove the camber plate, and...
Remove the camber plate, and use a Dremel or other similar tool to grind out the slot according to the marks applied in the previous step.
Using a bolt to test the amount...
Using a bolt to test the amount of space needed, shop tech Wes Northrup determined that he didn't need to open the entire area that was marked. The amount of material removed here allows 1-degree camber shims to be installed with no binding.
Using a bolt to test the amount...
Using a bolt to test the amount of space needed, shop tech Wes Northrup determined that he didn't need to open the entire area that was marked. The amount of material removed here allows 1-degree camber shims to be installed with no binding.
Other than the boot, the original...
Other than the boot, the original upper strut mount is the only factory piece reused on the new strut and spring. It's set in place, then the strut nut is replaced while the stem is held with a wrench. The Steeda spring is short enough that it's possible to compress it with your hands to get the nut started. From there, simply tighten the nut securely to complete the assembly of the new strut and spring. Also note that when putting the assembly back together, the large-diameter end of the spring must face down with the pigtail against the spring stops in the upper and lower strut mounts.
Reinstallation of the completed...
Reinstallation of the completed strut and spring assembly is simply a reversal of its removal.
Secure the strut in place...
Secure the strut in place up top by reinstalling the four bolts on top of it underhood. Next, reattach the strut to the spindle, as shown here.
Using the hardware supplied...
Using the hardware supplied with the Steeda camber plates, bolt the strut and spindle back together with the camber plates in place. JBA went with one-degree negative camber shims in the plates and reports that the alignment specs usually come out perfectly with those shims and the mild drop the Steeda springs provide. It's still a good idea to put the car on an alignment rack afterwards to verify specs. Complete the installation by reattaching the brake and ABS sensor lines and antisway-bar link to the spindle.
As you can see by these two...
As you can see by these two close-up shots of the front and rear of our '06 GT subject car, the ride height is perfect with the car's stock 17x8-inch wheels and 235/55R17 tires. Steeda claims about a 1-inch drop in front and 111/44 inches in back, which is near where our results were. It looks great and would also look cool with most 18- and 20-inch wheel/tire combinations.