We've known Brant Halterman of Virginia Classic Mustang (VCM) for more than 20 years. I met him in 1986 at the Mustang Club of America Grand National at Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, where I photo-graphed his '65 Poppy Red 289 High Performance convertible. It was hard not to notice the impeccable craftsmanship demonstrated by Brant and his father, and for two decades, we've looked to VCM for spot-on products and seasoned technical support.
Case in point is this Turbo 2 1/4-inch dual exhaust system. When we called Brant to ask him about a bolt-on exhaust system for a '67 Mustang with 289 Hi-Po exhaust manifolds, we knew he would have the answer. The '67 was equipped with a dual exhaust system from a local muffler shop. Despite being custom-fabricated, the tailpipes interfered with the rear axle, the entire system resonated at idle, and there was a leak at one of the manifolds caused by an improperly flared pipe.
We like the original look...
We like the original look of Virginia Classic Mustang's 2 1/4-inch Turbo exhaust system. The galvanized, aluminized, and mandrel-bent setup is designed for easy bolt on in your garage or at a local muffler shop.
Brant suggested VCM's 2 1/4-inch Turbo dual exhaust system. What we liked most about the system was its mandrel-bent pipes, galvanized mufflers, and corrosion-resistant hardware. That's why Brant uses the supplier that makes these exhaust systems-he's a classic-Mustang enthusiast and restorer, and he's picky about quality and fit. That's what we needed for this system.
Another cool thing about exhaust systems from VCM is flexibility. You can use the company's own Turbo mufflers or someone else's, such as Flowmaster.
Complete exhaust systems from VCM retail for approximately $350 to $400 and are worth every penny. A custom exhaust system at a local shop will cost you upwards of $400-$600, but the product doesn't always match the price. Rarely will those other systems have mandrel-bending and the correct classic-Mustang hardware. Most of the time, they have generic components and a poor fit. With a complete system from Virginia Classic Mustang, however, there will be an original-equipment look and fit.
The pipes slide together easily,...
The pipes slide together easily, and the hardware looks like original equipment. It's the last exhaust system your classic Mustang will ever need.
The hardward excites us most....
The hardward excites us most. It looks the same as what Ford installed 42 years ago. Instead of a sheetmetal screw twisted into your Mustang's floorpan, you get hardware that's safe and effective for a solid installation and factory appearance.
There will be no more banging...
There will be no more banging tailpipes, either-these are solid and secure.
Use a steel donut gasket for...
Use a steel donut gasket for best results at the exhaust manifold. Steel wedges itself into the manifold and pipe for exceptional sealing, and it resists extreme heat better than asbestos-style gaskets. It won't blow out.
As you can see, one of our...
As you can see, one of our Hi-Po manifolds suffered from a bad exhaust leak at the custom H-pipe. You don't have to worry about that with the Turbo dual exhaust system. It fits and seals properly.
You never know what you're...
You never know what you're going to encounter on older Mustangs. We ran into fitment issues when the righthand H-pipe was off by an inch. At first, we thought we would have to return it or visit a muffler shop. However, Brant put us in touch with the manufacturer, who suggested we bend the pipe ourselves. We placed one side under our left foot and pulled up on the right side. It was an easy fix for a perfect fit.
Support the H-pipe with a...
Support the H-pipe with a jackstand and snug the manifold stud nuts, but don't tighten them yet.
Exhaust pipes are tricky to...
Exhaust pipes are tricky to fit because you must position them to clear the floorpan and driveshaft. Fit each loosely, and rotate the pipe until ideal clearance is achieved. Examine the angle at the muffler end to make sure it's square.
This is how an exhaust pipe...
This is how an exhaust pipe installation should look when loosely fitted. You want at least 1 inch of clearance from the floor and driveshaft. Keep in mind that the shaft moves up and down with the rear axle as you drive.
Once you're confident of pipe...
Once you're confident of pipe fitment, gently drive the exhaust pipes into the H-pipe. Don't do like us-use a block of wood between the hammer and pipe to prevent distortion.
For '65-'66, this is how muffler...
For '65-'66, this is how muffler fitment looks, with the center in and offset out. We're not certain why Ford did it this way considering the improved clearances when mufflers are fit offset in and centered out, but this is correct for those years. The Turbo dual exhaust system is designed this way for '65-'70 Mustang owners who want true dual exhausts.
Before tightening anything,...
Before tightening anything, check the exhaust system for proper fit. The 1-inch clearance allows room for the worst possible scenario: bottoming out in a dip and bumpy roads, among other things. Take vehicle weight off the rear axle and check your clearances again. Few things are more annoying than a driveshaft chaffing your mufflers or rear axle striking the tailpipes.
Every Mustang rear framerail...
Every Mustang rear framerail is stamped for tailpipe brackets and hangers. Two holes just ahead of the shackles on each side are designed for tailpipe hangers. Don't use the tie-down brackets.
Virginia Classic Mustang provides...
Virginia Classic Mustang provides the tailpipe-hanger hardware shown here. All it takes are the two provided stovebolts and a 9/16-inch wrench.
Positioning of the muffler...
Positioning of the muffler hanger is a matter of personal preference. Because we wanted our mufflers close into the floorpan pockets, we hung them high. The tailpipes are bent for mufflers hung lower in the factory positioning. If you hang the mufflers high, tailpipe fitment becomes a challenge because the angle changes. We needed to have our tailpipes tweaked at a muffler shop for proper fit.
Because we took the high road...
Because we took the high road for muffler positioning, we drilled the floorpan as shown. To have perfect fitment out of the box, drill the holes 1 1/2 to 2 inches lower than shown here. If you want higher positioning, take your Mustang to a muffler shop for minor pipe bending.
This is the Ford-style factory...
This is the Ford-style factory muffler-hanger stud bracket that fits through the floorpan. Ford originally used reinforcement, a sandwich to make the floorpan thicker.
You could also custom-make...
You could also custom-make a reinforcement plate. These brackets attach with a self-tapping screw.
If you follow factory muffler...
If you follow factory muffler positioning, tailpipes are a bolt-on. All you have to do is roll the pipe left and right to get positioning exact. How far you sink the tailpipes into the mufflers also determines positioning.
There's a lot of debate about...
There's a lot of debate about how to position exhaust system clamps. It depends on personal preference, and whether or not you can get a wrench on the clamps. We like them located where the studs don't injure anyone and are out of the slipstream.
Imagine tailpipes that don't...
Imagine tailpipes that don't move and rattle. This comes from factory tailpipe hangers anchored at the framerails, which Virginia Classic Mustang provides. Aim the brackets toward the front of the vehicle and tighten the self-tapping screws. These brackets adjust up and down for proper tailpipe positioning. You can also shim the brackets left and right.
This is how a tailpipe positions...
This is how a tailpipe positions at the bracket. You can adjust the pipe right, left, up, and down to square it with your valance.
Before tightening the tailpipes,...
Before tightening the tailpipes, make sure they clear the floorpan by at least 1 inch.
Note our tailpipe is pointed...
Note our tailpipe is pointed down due to muffler positioning. This will mandate a trip to the muffler shop for minor pipe tweaking.