With Tubing From Classic Tube And Advice From The Restomod Shop, You Can Do It Yourself
Your Mustang's plumbing system manages functions important not only to driving, but also to driving safely. Brake lines, fittings, and valves must be able to withstand tremendous operating pressures. They must not fail even under the worst of circumstances.
Fuel lines, even in fuel-injected, late-model Mustangs, operate under much lower pressures. However, fuel must remain inside the line at all times, including extraordinary circumstances such as an accident. Because late-model fuel-injection fuel lines are primarily plastic quick connect/disconnect, we're not going to discuss them here.
Classic Tube takes the confusion out of brake- and fuel-line installation because the company makes every type of prebent line for classic Mustangs. However, if you have an application in which you would like to route the lines differently from the way they were routed at the factory, all you have to do is order rolls of line from Classic Tube and fabricate them yourself. If that doesn't work for you, send Classic Tube your exact dimensions and it will manufacture prebent lines at an additional cost. This means you can have brake and fuel lines made for just about anything out there.
When time prohibits ordering tubing from Classic Tube, your local automotive parts store should have double-wall/double-flare steel tubing in various lengths and diameters for brake and fuel applications.
 Line fabrication and flaring become more doable in the home garage with this line-flaring kit from Cornwell Tools. Making brake and fuel lines is straightforward once you know how. |  A tool you want to become acquainted with is the tubing cutter. Never cut tubing with a fine-tooth saw or a cheap hardware store copper tubing cutter. Spend money on a good version for a clean cut. The difference between a cheap tubing cutter and a good one is blade hardness and tool design/quality. |  This is an easy step to overlook. Don't forget to slide the fitting on before flaring. Otherwise, you wind up with a flare and no fitting. This is a 1/8-inch double-wall brake line, which requires a double-flare. |
How To Bend Lines
Bending brake lines has to be approached with the same kind of caution used during double-wall flaring. Get aggressive in your bending and you can kink the line, rendering it useless. Adopt a smooth approach to your bending, using a tubing bender or socket to round your radii.
 This is a tubing bender, as demonstrated by Richard Bramlett. Position the 0/0 where you want the bend radius. |  Slowly walk your bend to the number of degrees desired. If you're unsure about the number of degrees, bend a little at a time until it fits your application. | |
 Sometimes there's the need for a bend that's tighter than a tubing bender can provide. That's when you can use a socket to make your bends tighter. |  For example, coming off the brake master cylinder, you can roll your lines to make them easier to install and allow more expansion flex. |  By varying the socket size, you can change the line bend radius. Crank it tight around a 1/2-inch socket or give a generous bend radius around a huge 1 1/2-inch socket. You can also use a pipe to get your bends. |