Installing front disc brakes is one of the most popular upgrades for vintage Mustangs. We've covered the subject several times throughout the years and with good reason. From a pure safety standpoint, converting to front disc brakes is about the single-best improvement for your older vehicle.
Several companies offer drum-to-disc conversion packages. This month, we're touching on a Master Power system being installed on a '70 Mustang. However, this time we're closely detailing the MP conversion to power brakes.
The Master Power brake-booster...
The Master Power brake-booster package is complete. The assembled master cylinder and booster are ready to install and the vacuum hose kit and power-brake pedal are also included, as well as a proportioning valve, required lines, and a bottle of brake fluid.
While installing the whole setup at once is a great way to go, keep in mind that there are several options. If your '67-'73 Mustang already has manual front disc brakes, you can install the booster and corresponding master cylinder we're showing here. Conversely, if you have manual drum brakes and want to do the power-brake conversion first, that's also possible, although putting in the discs first is probably a better idea should you need to budget the project over time. The power booster will work equally well with either drum brakes or front discs.
For '65-'66s that came with manual drum, power drum, or manual disc, Master Power also offers complete power disc kits that are great for updating these cars.
For the installation, we turned to our friends at Marlo's Frame and Alignment, who supplied the extensive installation knowledge for our project.
Also note that while the power brake booster and master cylinder is an excellent upgrade and works beautifully in our '70 Mustang subject car, it's not easy to install, mainly due to the fact that the brake pedal must be changed. With two experienced techs working on the car, it took about 10 hours to do the conversion. Working at home, figure on a full weekend to install the booster and master cylinder. The results are definitely worth the effort.
 Begin by removing the driver-side...  Begin by removing the driver-side strut brace to access the master-cylinder area; it will give you the working room you'll need to do the installation. You can also remove the hood, if desired, to gain even more access to this area against the firewall. |  Unbolt the brake lines from...  Unbolt the brake lines from the stock brake booster. Use line wrenches to be sure you don't damage the line nuts on the car's factory brake lines, some of which will be reused. |  This cotter pin located under...  This cotter pin located under the dashboard holds the master cylinder's pushrod to the brake pedal. Take it off to allow removal of the master cylinder from the car. A pair of needle-nose pliers will be the best tool to remove the pin, which will also release the taillight brake switch at the same time. |