How To Install A Cable Clutch Linkage

Here's our completed Trans Am Racing power booster installation.

The master cylinder is installed with new lines from Classic Tube. If you're doing a '65-'66 Mustang, now is the time to convert to a dual braking system for improved safety.

Underdash, the clutch pedal needs to be fitted with this mechanism, which changes the linear factory clutch rod to a pull-only cable. The cable screws into this link and is fully adjustable. We prefer doing all of our adjustments underneath at the bellhousing. You want both ends at the middle of the adjustment along with deep link penetration on top because access is poor once it is installed.

The clutch cable is permanently attached here with either the rubber O-ring or a C-clip.

This is what your installation should look like. Cable routing should be straight without kinks and sharp bends.

Underdash, the clutch linkage must clear the cowl via a sliding adjustment. We suggest using a thread locker on this bolt once proper adjustment is established. It's best to slide the adjustment all the way down and lock down the bolt. The link must be flush against the clutch pedal.

The clutch cable is installed here at the late-model 5.0L five-speed bellhousing. You must have a late-model bellhousing designed for a cable clutch in order for this to work. You must also have the correct diaphragm-style clutch, fork, and release bearing.

This is what your cable/clutch fork connection should look like. Adjustment depends on pedal feel and clutch engagement. Gradually tighten the cable, checking engagement as you go. Adjustment depends on personal feel. Some like prompt clutch engagement down low. Others up high. Make sure there's no release bearing noise.

We secured our cable to an existing hole in the shock tower using the provided clamp.