How To Build A Budget 289

When we speak of precision machine work, this is what we're talking about. Main bearing saddles have been line-honed to perfection. You want a nice crosshatch pattern like this for good main bearing security. The crosshatch pattern contributes to bearing crush and security, which keeps the bearing from turning. It also keeps oil where it belongs. Main and rod bearing tangs aren't there for bearing security, but for proper bearing alignment and positioning.

MCE Engines Quick Tip
Think You're Clean?
Think your cylinder bores are clean and free of contamination? Guess again. Before Marvin installs reciprocating components, he does a complete block wash with mineral spirits, wiping down the cylinder bores using a lint-free cloth along with WD-40 as a solvent and lubricant. He continues the wipe down until the cloth shows clean. Any contaminates (dirt) or fine metal particles can adversely affect ring seating.

Lifter bore dimensions are as critical as cylinder bore dimensions because lifter bore clearances affect oil pressure. With excessive lifter-to-bore clearances, you can lose oil pressure. Check bore and lifter diameter to ascertain lifter-to-bore clearance. Although we are showing this step during assembly, it must be checked during teardown prior to honing.

Because we want value for money spent, we're looking to Comp Cams for exceptional value and power. With budget squarely in mind, Marvin suggested the Comp Cams #31-409-3 Dual Energy hydraulic flat-tappet cam for this 331-inch stroker. Comp calls it "Dual Energy" because it has different durations for intake and exhaust to improve power.

MCE Engines Quick Tip
Comp Cams Dual Energy Camshaft Specifications
Choose a camshaft for the kind of driving you intend to do most often. This is why MCE Engines chose the Comp Cams Dual Energy flat tappet hydraulic camshaft. It offers smooth drivability for the commute along with snappy torque for freeway onramps. And when it's time for Saturday night drag racing, it will do that too. It comes on strong at 2,000 rpm, pulls like stink through 5,500 rpm, and is all finished at 6,000 rpm. The message here isn't horsepower, but plentiful street torque.

Part Number:	#31-409-3
Grind Number:	#265DEH
Complete Kit:	#K31-409-3
RPM Range:	1600-5750 rpm
Lobe Centers:	110 degrees
Intake Centerline:	106 degrees
Lobe Lift:	0.295" Intake 0.304" Exhaust
Valve Lift:	0.472" Intake 0.486" Exhaust
Duration @ .006" Lift:	265 Intake 273 Exhaust
Duration @ .050" Lift:	211 Intake 223 Exhaust

Marvin always installs the cam first because he can get his hands around it for support. And remember to use engine assembly lube on the journals and moly lube on the lobes for good break-in.

Marvin stresses hospital clean. All it takes is one tiny stray piece of metal to finish off an engine in its first 100 miles. This is why Marvin scrubs and cleans all engine components two and three times to ensure cleanliness. Here, he chases oil galley passages in the Eagle crankshaft with plenty of soap and water. Once he is confident all debris is gone, he closely eyeballs each galley and bathes the crank in WD-40 to prevent corrosion.

You can machine your small-block's #5 rear main journal and crankshaft to accept a one-piece rear main seal, but it's not a budget procedure. When you're on a strict budget, you're stuck with the old two-piece rear main seal. Marvin suggests staggering the seal and main cap parting lines to prevent leakage. After the crank is set, Marvin applies a dab of Permatex High Temp silicone sealer to the seal and main cap parting lines for leak-free performance.

Although traditional thought suggests setting and torquing all main caps together, Marvin discourages this practice because it leaves you not knowing the status of each main journal. Marvin installs and torques main caps one at a time to ascertain fit and resistance to rotation. He begins with a fit check for the #5 main cap, then torques to Ford specs. He then checks crankshaft rotation, which should easily turn with one hand on the keyway snout. Next, move to the #4 main cap with the same procedure and so on through #1. This enables you to find poor fit or improper installation before moving to the next main cap.

Marvin has a routine he follows when stuffing bores. He coats cylinder walls with WD-40 to eliminate potential corrosion and allow rings to seat properly after start-up. Pistons and rings are coated with Marvin's own special assembly lube.

Marvin uses Loctite Threadlocker RED 271 on engine fasteners where failure is not an option. Loctite 271 resists engine temperatures up to 579 F. Did you know Loctite is made by the Henkel Company of North America, the same people who bring us Dial soap, Right Guard deodorant, and Renuzit air freshener?

MCE Engines Quick Tip
Use a Torque Wrench
Why use a torque wrench? Because torquing fasteners to specification is all about bolt stretch and clamping force. Marvin stresses clean bolt threads with sufficient lubrication for smooth tightening. When you torque a fastener, it's a good idea to do it in third values. For example, cylinder head torque on a 289/302 is 65-72 ft. lb. total. First torquing should be 50 ft. lb., then, 60 ft. lb., then 65-72 ft. lb. Never over-torque. And if you do over-torque, replace the fastener and start over with a new one because you have permanently stretched the fastener and it no longer has proper clamping value.
When you torque a fastener, be smooth and steady. Never jerk a torque wrench to get the tell-tale breakaway "click." And never remove a fastener with a torque wrench. Always use a breaker bar or ratchet.