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How To Build A Budget 289In This Second Of A Two-Part Series, MCE Engines And Eagle Specialty Products Show How To Build Reliable Torque Into A Low-Dollar Small-Block From the May, 2009 issue of Mustang Monthly By Jim Smart Photography by Jim Smart
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Last month, we took you through the teardown and inspection of a '66 289ci engine that had never been apart, other than a timing set replacement some time in its 43-year/189,000-mile history. This month, Marvin McAfee of MCE Engines is going to take us through the engine's methodical blueprinting and build-up - with a pinch more stroke and displacement. As a loyal Mustang Monthly reader, you know our history includes dozens of step-by-step engine builds. This is why we're approaching this one with a fresh eye - more a recipe than a step-by-step with important pointers you will want to share with your engine builder. Marvin invites you to think about your engine build with sound economic sense along with detailed execution for best results. Summing it up - spend your money wisely but do not cut corners in the interest of saving a few bucks. If you want more power for the least amount of money, invest in a quality stroker kit and place your trust in an exceptional engine builder. Marvin tells us there are plenty of engine "assemblers" out there, but not enough engine architects who hand-craft engines with both power and reliability in mind. He will tell you it doesn't come cheap nor is it easy because there are so many different approaches. He also comments that if you put 50 engine builders in a room, you will get 50 different opinions on how to build an engine. Marvin trusts his detailed approach based on 50 years of engine building experience. So here's the straight skinny from MCE Engines. If you're rebuilding, go for the most power possible from your 289 or 302 block.  Hidden Power You Can Afford...  Hidden Power You Can Afford
What makes it affordable? Eagle Specialty Products can set you up with a new Street & Strip 331ci stroker kit with 3.250-inch stroke ESP cast steel crankshaft, cap-screw I-beam 5140 steel rods, forged flattop pistons, premium moly rings, and Clevite 77 bearings for little more than it costs to have your engine's existing rotating/reciprocating parts inspected and machined. These stroker kits are available balanced and unbalanced. Because Marvin does his own precision balancing via Revco Automotive Balancing, he didn't need a balanced kit. Marvin does initial static balancing himself, then hands it off to Revco for pinpoint precision dynamic balancing to within one-third of a gram. What this means is velvet smooth operation and more power not lost to vibration, which can shorten engine life.Marvin is rolling stroke and additional torque into this engine without anyone knowing but the customer. Not only do we get stroke and the corresponding gain in torque, we get stronger components that will take a pounding on the street for just a few bucks more. This is stealthy hidden power you can justify for your engine build.  This is the 5.400-inch Eagle...  This is the 5.400-inch Eagle "SIR" I-beam connecting rod with cap screw security, which is better than the original C3OE connecting rods with 5/16-inch bolts. What makes it better is 5140 steel alloy for optimum strength. Pin boss is available in either press fit or floating. The ARP 3/8-inch cap screws are indestructible. Eagle has matched this set to within plus or minus 2 grams. These rods are rated to 500 horsepower, which makes them perfect for our 350-horse small-block.  Forged flat-top pistons have...  Forged flat-top pistons have floating pins for less internal friction and stability. Compression can be controlled via dish size if you intend to run a supercharger or other power enhancer.  MCE Engines Quick Tip Balancer...  MCE Engines Quick Tip
Balancer Assessment
Your engine's harmonic balancer is a shock absorber designed to take up crankshaft twist and rebound. As each cylinder fires and exerts its individual load on the crankshaft, there's a certain amount of torsional load where the crank twists and snaps back to center. The harmonic balancer, also known as a vibration damper, is an iron or steel hub wrapped inside a rubber ring inside an iron or steel ring. The rubber ring must be solid for the balancer to properly dampen shock and vibration. Examine your harmonic balancer's rubber ring. If it looks like the one on the right, replace it with a new M-6316-J351 balancer from Ford Racing Performance Parts (left).  Few things are sweeter than...  Few things are sweeter than a freshly machined block. MCE Engines has had this block bored to 4.032-inches - .032-inch oversize to allow for forged piston expansion. Remember, forged pistons have a greater expansion rate than cast or hypereutectic. Main bearing line bore has been checked and honed for good bearing crush and hold. Decks have been milled to true. Oil galley ports have been tapped for screw-in plugs. New cam bearings have been installed.  Marvin has notched the cylinder...  Marvin has notched the cylinder skirts to clear the Eagle stroker rod bolts by a minimum of .060-inch.  With all machine work completed,...  With all machine work completed, Marvin has his own regiment for fine-tooth blueprinting. Here, he works each bore's deck with 400-grit paper to remove finite imperfections that can score pistons and rings during installation. These tiny imperfections can also create hot spots at the top of the bore that can cause detonation.  Marvin likes to massage sharp...  Marvin likes to massage sharp edges to remove potential snags. Here, he works piston ring edges for smoother function and virtually no stray metal particles that might damage ring lands and cylinder walls.  Marvin checks piston ring...  Marvin checks piston ring end gap with pre-gapped rings. Standard operating procedure is, "Trust, but verify..." at MCE Engines. Never assume anything is ready to install right out of the package. Inspect every single part.  When we speak of precision...  When we speak of precision machine work, this is what we're talking about. Main bearing saddles have been line-honed to perfection. You want a nice crosshatch pattern like this for good main bearing security. The crosshatch pattern contributes to bearing crush and security, which keeps the bearing from turning. It also keeps oil where it belongs. Main and rod bearing tangs aren't there for bearing security, but for proper bearing alignment and positioning.  MCE Engines Quick Tip Think...  MCE Engines Quick Tip
Think You're Clean?
Think your cylinder bores are clean and free of contamination? Guess again. Before Marvin installs reciprocating components, he does a complete block wash with mineral spirits, wiping down the cylinder bores using a lint-free cloth along with WD-40 as a solvent and lubricant. He continues the wipe down until the cloth shows clean. Any contaminates (dirt) or fine metal particles can adversely affect ring seating.  Lifter bore dimensions are...  Lifter bore dimensions are as critical as cylinder bore dimensions because lifter bore clearances affect oil pressure. With excessive lifter-to-bore clearances, you can lose oil pressure. Check bore and lifter diameter to ascertain lifter-to-bore clearance. Although we are showing this step during assembly, it must be checked during teardown prior to honing.  Because we want value for...  Because we want value for money spent, we're looking to Comp Cams for exceptional value and power. With budget squarely in mind, Marvin suggested the Comp Cams #31-409-3 Dual Energy hydraulic flat-tappet cam for this 331-inch stroker. Comp calls it "Dual Energy" because it has different durations for intake and exhaust to improve power.  MCE Engines Quick Tip Comp...  MCE Engines Quick TipComp Cams Dual Energy Camshaft SpecificationsChoose a camshaft for the kind of driving you intend to do most often. This is why MCE Engines chose the Comp Cams Dual Energy flat tappet hydraulic camshaft. It offers smooth drivability for the commute along with snappy torque for freeway onramps. And when it's time for Saturday night drag racing, it will do that too. It comes on strong at 2,000 rpm, pulls like stink through 5,500 rpm, and is all finished at 6,000 rpm. The message here isn't horsepower, but plentiful street torque. | Part Number: | #31-409-3 | | Grind Number: | #265DEH | | Complete Kit: | #K31-409-3 | | RPM Range: | 1600-5750 rpm | | Lobe Centers: | 110 degrees | | Intake Centerline: | 106 degrees | | Lobe Lift: | 0.295" Intake 0.304" Exhaust | | Valve Lift: | 0.472" Intake 0.486" Exhaust | | Duration @ .006" Lift: | 265 Intake 273 Exhaust | | Duration @ .050" Lift: | 211 Intake 223 Exhaust |
 Marvin always installs the...  Marvin always installs the cam first because he can get his hands around it for support. And remember to use engine assembly lube on the journals and moly lube on the lobes for good break-in.  Marvin stresses hospital clean....  Marvin stresses hospital clean. All it takes is one tiny stray piece of metal to finish off an engine in its first 100 miles. This is why Marvin scrubs and cleans all engine components two and three times to ensure cleanliness. Here, he chases oil galley passages in the Eagle crankshaft with plenty of soap and water. Once he is confident all debris is gone, he closely eyeballs each galley and bathes the crank in WD-40 to prevent corrosion.  You can machine your small-block's...  You can machine your small-block's #5 rear main journal and crankshaft to accept a one-piece rear main seal, but it's not a budget procedure. When you're on a strict budget, you're stuck with the old two-piece rear main seal. Marvin suggests staggering the seal and main cap parting lines to prevent leakage. After the crank is set, Marvin applies a dab of Permatex High Temp silicone sealer to the seal and main cap parting lines for leak-free performance.  Although traditional thought...  Although traditional thought suggests setting and torquing all main caps together, Marvin discourages this practice because it leaves you not knowing the status of each main journal. Marvin installs and torques main caps one at a time to ascertain fit and resistance to rotation. He begins with a fit check for the #5 main cap, then torques to Ford specs. He then checks crankshaft rotation, which should easily turn with one hand on the keyway snout. Next, move to the #4 main cap with the same procedure and so on through #1. This enables you to find poor fit or improper installation before moving to the next main cap.  Marvin has a routine he follows...  Marvin has a routine he follows when stuffing bores. He coats cylinder walls with WD-40 to eliminate potential corrosion and allow rings to seat properly after start-up. Pistons and rings are coated with Marvin's own special assembly lube.  Marvin uses Loctite Threadlocker...  Marvin uses Loctite Threadlocker RED 271 on engine fasteners where failure is not an option. Loctite 271 resists engine temperatures up to 579 F. Did you know Loctite is made by the Henkel Company of North America, the same people who bring us Dial soap, Right Guard deodorant, and Renuzit air freshener?  MCE Engines Quick Tip Use...  MCE Engines Quick Tip
Use a Torque Wrench
Why use a torque wrench? Because torquing fasteners to specification is all about bolt stretch and clamping force. Marvin stresses clean bolt threads with sufficient lubrication for smooth tightening. When you torque a fastener, it's a good idea to do it in third values. For example, cylinder head torque on a 289/302 is 65-72 ft. lb. total. First torquing should be 50 ft. lb., then, 60 ft. lb., then 65-72 ft. lb. Never over-torque. And if you do over-torque, replace the fastener and start over with a new one because you have permanently stretched the fastener and it no longer has proper clamping value.
When you torque a fastener, be smooth and steady. Never jerk a torque wrench to get the tell-tale breakaway "click." And never remove a fastener with a torque wrench. Always use a breaker bar or ratchet.  Marvin strongly suggests degreeing...  Marvin strongly suggests degreeing your camshaft because cam cards rarely match actual cam timing events. The reason for this is variations in camshafts, cam and crank sprockets, and timing chains. First, find true top dead center (TDC) and get crank travel smack in the middle of TDC. Next, dial in the camshaft timing events as they relate to piston travel via crank sprocket adjustment or cam sprocket offset bushings.  Fuel pump eccentric clearance...  Fuel pump eccentric clearance from the timing cover is something easily overlooked. Rarely does anyone check it. You want at least 0.060-inch clearance between eccentric and timing cover.  The oil slinger is designed...  The oil slinger is designed to keep oil away from the crankshaft oil seal and sling oil onto the timing set. However, if you are running a dual roller timing set, do not use the oil slinger because it will interfere with the chain links. Oil drain back from heads and valley, plus splash and spray, will adequately lubricate the timing set.  When Marvin was planning out...  When Marvin was planning out this 289 stroker, he wanted the most performance available for his customer's investment dollar. That's why he asked for Holley Systemax cylinder heads and Weiand induction. This is the #300-173 cylinder head casting designed for stud-mount rocker arms (like original equipment). If you want pedestal mount rocker arms, ask for #300-551-2.  The Holley Systemax cylinder...  The Holley Systemax cylinder head sports 1.90/1.60-inch stainless steel intake/exhaust valves, perfect for a mild street stroker Mustang with 331ci of displacement.  We're using Weiand's Action-Plus...  We're using Weiand's Action-Plus #8124 dual-plane aluminum intake manifold for 289/302 Fords for our budget stroker. Here, it sports Marvin's MCE Black treatment with shaved graphics. Marvin also port-matched the manifold and cylinder heads for streamlined airflow. Note what Marvin has done to the intake plenum for improved flow beneath the Holley #0-080670 Street Avenger carburetor.  Here's the Holley Street Avenger...  Here's the Holley Street Avenger with 670cfm on tap for both street and weekend drag racing performance. Also shown is an Earl's fuel manifold and Holley #HLY-12-833 fuel pump, also available from Holley Performance Products, which doesn't require a regulator.  Marvin opted for a high-flow...  Marvin opted for a high-flow water pump for his 331-inch street small-block. As you might expect from MCE Engines, all passages have been massaged to reduce fluid turbulence.  MCE Engines Quick Tip Be...  MCE Engines Quick Tip
Be Easy On Yourself
Spend a few hours with Marvin McAfee and you learn quickly how to get the job done properly. If you've ever used a large hammer and a lot of force to install a harmonic balancer, Marvin has a better idea that won't leave you exhausted and your balancer damaged. Marvin placed the Ford Racing 28-ounce harmonic balancer in boiling water so the heat would expand the hub for easier crankshaft installation. Let it boil for 15-30 minutes. Then, using gloves and engine assembly lube on the crank and hub, install the balancer using the well-oiled damper bolt and washer.  No, this balancer didn't just...  No, this balancer didn't just come out of boiling water or you would still hear Marvin yelling. It's strictly a demonstration shot before Marvin placed the balancer in hot water, but you get the idea. When it is scalding hot, the balancer will slip right onto the crankshaft without excessive force. Just run the bolt down and torque to specifications.  Marvin uses just one gasket...  Marvin uses just one gasket brand on his engines -- Fel-Pro. Shown here is the Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal head gasket for optimum sealing. When you're running aluminum cylinder heads, you want head gaskets designed for aluminum heads. If you choose head gaskets for iron heads, you could damage your aluminum heads.  We like Marvin's personal...  We like Marvin's personal touches to Holley/Weiand castings to make his work distinctive. This is something you can do to your performance castings as well to help them stand out. Marvin does it in MCE Black, however you can do this with any color.  Because we're using a modest...  Because we're using a modest hydraulic flat-tappet camshaft, we could have easily gone with stock rocker arms. Marvin decided on Magnum roller rocker arms from Comp Cams to reduce internal friction and improve stability. It is very important to get rocker arm and valve stem geometry just right, with the roller tip centered on the valve when at half cam-lobe lift.  To improve low- to mid-range...  To improve low- to mid-range torque and isolate engine heat, Marvin went with a -inch Phenolic carburetor spacer, which has been massaged to improve airflow and eliminate turbulence.  Marvin chose the PerTronix...  Marvin chose the PerTronix billet distributor for this project to enhance ignition reliability and enable him to fine-tune the ignition system. Coupled with the PerTronix Flamethrower ignition coil, it's unbeatable. When you use the Flamethrower coil, you must bypass the factory resistor wire from the ignition switch. Marvin has custom-curved this distributor for the customer's driving preferences. His curving technique also matches camshaft, heads, and induction.  Marvin opted for a Milodon...  Marvin opted for a Milodon double sump pan and Canton windage tray designed for late-model Mustangs because the engine will be installed in a Mustang with a Mustang II front end, which calls for the double-sump Fox-body oil pan. A main stud girdle and windage tray are added life insurance to secure the bottom end, offering stability when it's time to lean on the throttle. MCE Engines has also blueprinted the Melling high-volume oil pump to improve reliability.  Boss Look We're not sure...  Boss Look
We're not sure where to hand the credit, but someone came up with a great idea at Ford Racing Performance Parts. We like this cast aluminum M-6582-BOSS302 valve cover for 289/302/351W cylinder heads. It makes your Windsor-based small-block look like a Cleveland or Boss 302. What's more, Ford Racing has a new polished version of this valve cover for 2009.
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