We removed both bucket seats...
We removed both bucket seats and the rear seat from our hardtop. The seat upholstery, foam, and burlap are shot. It's time for new foam and seat upholstery from Distinctive Industries and California Mustang.
If you remember our '67 Six-To-Eight Frost Turquoise hardtop, you'll recall a daily driver that was mighty worn out. Faded paint and a sun-decayed interior were the only elements holding us up between zero and hero. We installed new carpet and rocker moldings to set the stage, so now Lancaster Auto Interiors is adding new Distinctive Industries' upholstery for the front buckets and rear seats.
What makes front bucket seats a different upholstery experience is new seat foam. When you install new seat foam, your upholstery project becomes more challenging because it requires strength and patience. Reproduction seat foam isn't the same consistency as the original factory foam. It is firmer for one thing, which makes installation more challenging. We're going to show you how to make the most of this experience.

We're beginning with the rear...

We're beginning with the rear seat because it's simple and easy. Hog rings are removed around the perimeter, which releases the old vinyl. This was a poor upholstery job from 20 years ago, which is why the vinyl is a loose, sloppy fit.

Lancaster Auto Interiors decided...

Lancaster Auto Interiors decided to fatten up the package with padding in order to stretch the vinyl and achieve a good fit. The Catch 22 here is if you fatten up too much, the rear seat will not fit between the quarter trim panels.

When these seats were redone...

When these seats were redone in the 1980s, the upholsterer didn't use wire listing for vinyl security. Lancaster Auto Interiors is using listing to firm up the installation. You don't have to visit a supplier to get listing. Coat hanger wire works fine.

Rear seat upholstery is hog...

Rear seat upholstery is hog ringed from the center out. Start inside and work out.

Vinyl is pulled over the corners...

Vinyl is pulled over the corners as shown. Padding is added as necessary to get the vinyl snug.

Hog ringing around the perimeter...

Hog ringing around the perimeter begins at the corners, then toward the inside with the seat bottom. Ascertain there are no wrinkles.

The vinyl is steamed for flexibility...

The vinyl is steamed for flexibility and easy fit. Heat is an important tool for any upholsterer. Steam is the best scenario, but never too much of it.

The vinyl has been steamed...

The vinyl has been steamed and is quite flexible. Work toward the center, taking care to pull wrinkles out. Don't be afraid to go back and try again when stubborn wrinkles won't pull out.

Hog ring the front first,...

Hog ring the front first, then the rear. Back hog rings go in last because, if you're going to have any flaws, this is where you want them.

Again, don't be afraid to...

Again, don't be afraid to redo areas that need attention. Bust those hog rings and try again. Pull wrinkles out with heat.

Where the seat back tends...

Where the seat back tends to differ in approach is starting your hog ringing at the center and working outward. Use heat as necessary.

Moving to the front bucket...

Moving to the front bucket seats, begin by removing the two seat tracks, which are retained with four Phillip-head machine screws designed specifically for this application so they'll clear the tracks. Clean, inspect, and lube the tracks with white lithium grease. Don't overdo it. Check cable and adjustment turnbuckle for integrity.

Seat back covers, retained...

Seat back covers, retained with wire clips, are removed next.

Seat backs are removed using...

Seat backs are removed using a pry bar or large common screwdriver to pry off the pivot arm. Makes you wonder why Ford used a cotter pin to retain this arm.

You can take a couple of different...

You can take a couple of different approaches to seat upholstery removal. You can use a razor knife and cut the upholstery free. Or you can cut the hog rings and take a more civilized approach.

Lancaster Auto Interiors uses...

Lancaster Auto Interiors uses a super tough fabric to replace Ford's original burlap. However, did you know you can buy burlap from California Mustang for an original feel and appearance? But unless someone has the capability of looking underneath installed bucket seats, no one will know it's there but you.

The new foam is positioned...

The new foam is positioned carefully because it is very unforgiving of error. You must firmly seat the foam onto your seat frame. To ease vinyl installation, spray the foam with silicone for lubrication. Good advice is to heat the vinyl beforehand by laying it in the sun or warming in front of a heater.

Listing wire is installed...

Listing wire is installed in the vinyl to serve as the anchor point for the upholstery. Again, use heavy coat hanger wire if listing cannot be found.

Foam preparation is mandatory...

Foam preparation is mandatory because it is so stiff. Use a razor knife to penetrate the foam so you can hog-ring the listing.

Cut in small slits without...

Cut in small slits without damaging the foam. Begin with the forward tie-down point and work outward.

Work outward and hog-ring...

Work outward and hog-ring along the sides as shown.

Rolling the vinyl over is...

Rolling the vinyl over is the toughest aspect of seat bottom/cushion upholstery. We guarantee blisters and carpal tunnel syndrome. Lancaster Auto Interiors uses both silicone spray and plastic to ease installation. Use heat to make the vinyl flexible, but not too much heat.

Once you've overcome getting...

Once you've overcome getting the vinyl wrinkle free and secure, hog-ring beginning down the sides as shown. You may have to pull out the hog rings and try again. The objective should be smooth vinyl and no creases.

Steam heat is the key to smoothness...

Steam heat is the key to smoothness and flexibility. Get the vinyl good and warm, and then spank it to walk out those wrinkles.

Here, the Vinyl upholstery...

Here, the Vinyl upholstery has been removed from the seat back and the foam is being removed. Because the burlap appears pretty solid, we're going to leave it intact.

Lancaster Auto Interiors uses...

Lancaster Auto Interiors uses the same heavy-duty cloth to provide support. Burlap was there originally to support the foam and quiet seat spring action. The cloth is hog-ringed to the frame as shown.

Foam is fitted to the frame...

Foam is fitted to the frame with the same careful attention applied to the seat bottom because rolling vinyl over this foam takes a lot of determination. Spray the foam with silicone for lubrication and use a plastic trash bag as a slip-slider bearing between vinyl and foam. Slits are cut in the grooves to make way for hog rings.

Lancaster Auto Interiors marks...

Lancaster Auto Interiors marks a datum line, which is dead center in the foam as a reference point for vinyl installation. This is a good practice for all seat upholstery operations.

Seat back upholstery is hog...

Seat back upholstery is hog ringed around the inside as shown, which is very stressful when you're using new foam. It's very challenging to penetrate the foam, which is why you must cut slits about every 3-4 inches in the grooves.

Rolling the vinyl over is...

Rolling the vinyl over is the toughest stretch. Steam has been applied along with silicone and plastic. Caution must be applied to ensure you don't tear the vinyl.

It took two experienced people...

It took two experienced people at Lancaster Auto Interiors to roll this vinyl over and get it secure. Use steam heat to work out the wrinkles.

Side by side, you can see...

Side by side, you can see the difference. If you're not up to doing this yourself, most upholstery shops charge anywhere from $250 to $400 to reupholster front buckets and rear seat.

Vinyl is hog ringed to the...

Vinyl is hog ringed to the seat frame and spring structure.

Seat back installation involves...

Seat back installation involves prying the pivot arm out just enough to clear the pin. Cardboard washers go between the arm and seat to prevent chaffing.

Who Says You Won't Learn Something?...

Who Says You Won't Learn Something?
We found this tag inside the rear seat, which indicates the original supplier - Allen Industries in Compton, California, some 400 miles from Ford's Milpitas, California (San Jose) assembly plant where our Frost Turquoise hardtop was assembled. We looked up Allen Industries but it appears to be gone now or moved out of state. This tag indicates 10 pieces altogether, or 10 identical Mustang seat frames ordered under the same part number. Note the 1964 part number - Mustang rear seat frames didn't change through 1968.