Every company has a dark side. For Hooker Exhaust Systems, that dark side is their new ceramic-coated Dark Side long-tube headers. Instead of a shiny, bright ceramic coating, these headers are satin black, which makes them virtually invisible in your Mustang's engine compartment. The ceramic coating will not rust, flake, or burn off. It's there for the duration and could conceivably outlast your Mustang.
Because Mustang engine compartments are tight, there's never been an easy header installation in the marque's 46-year history and these Hooker long-tubes are no exception. However, they're worth the effort in what you'll gain in terms of power and quality.
If your Mustang has power steering, you will need to disconnect the power cylinder underneath to get it out of your way. Chances are you'll have to cut your exhaust pipes and build a fresh H-pipe designed to tie the Hooker collectors into the rest of your exhaust system. This is where you'll need the talents of a good exhaust shop. We suggest an H-pipe with a balance tube for better performance and sound.
We enlisted the help of Gil's Muffler Shop in Northridge, California, to tackle the installation of our Hooker Dark Side scavengers, which are replacing an old set of try-Y headers on a well-worn '65 Mustang hardtop. Everything that could leak on this car leaked, which made the installation challenging and, at times, frustrating. Gil's Muffler took it in stride.
 Hooker's Dark Side long-tube...  Hooker's Dark Side long-tube headers (PN 6901-3HKR for '65-'73 small-block Mustangs) are ceramic-coated in black for good looks, corrosion prevention, and heat containment. They can withstand up to 1,700 degrees F. Once installed, few will know that these scavengers are there thanks to their stealthy demeanor. |  Gil's Muffler Shop begins...  Gil's Muffler Shop begins by cutting the exhaust pipe at the vintage tri-Y header collectors. |  Every so often, we come across...  Every so often, we come across an old hot rod relic. These are antique tri-Y headers from the 1970s, brand unknown. Header tubes are too large for the application, which insults street torque. Hooker Dark Sides with the right-size primary tubes will fix that problem. |
 Spark plug wires must be disconnected...  Spark plug wires must be disconnected so the spark plugs can come out to make room for header removal and installation. Spark plug removal on 289 Fords is straightforward except for No. 5, which calls for a universal or swivel-head ratchet. |  Header flange disconnection...  Header flange disconnection calls for a 3/8-inch box-end or open-end wrench, depending on which bolt you're tackling. Header flanges are a bear to get a socket or box-end wrench on. Sometimes you have to modify the wrench with a grinder to get it on a bolt head. |  Be prepared to disconnect...  Be prepared to disconnect things that have nothing to do with the exhaust system. On '65-'70 Mustangs with power steering, you will have to disconnect the power cylinder underneath and swing it out of the way to make room for header removal and installation. You may even have to drop the control valve and linkage. |
 Gil's Muffler hauls out the...  Gil's Muffler hauls out the old tri-Y headers. The right-hand side is easy. The left-hand side takes patience. |  Believe it or not, the old...  Believe it or not, the old try-Ys were salvageable pieces for someone who wants to build a period hot-rod Mustang. They could be media-blasted, cleaned up, and ceramic coated. |  Gil's Muffler goes for easy...  Gil's Muffler goes for easy gasket installation so the gasket can be dropped into place once the new headers are in place. |