Every company has a dark side. For Hooker Exhaust Systems, that dark side is their new ceramic-coated Dark Side long-tube headers. Instead of a shiny, bright ceramic coating, these headers are satin black, which makes them virtually invisible in your Mustang's engine compartment. The ceramic coating will not rust, flake, or burn off. It's there for the duration and could conceivably outlast your Mustang.
Because Mustang engine compartments are tight, there's never been an easy header installation in the marque's 46-year history and these Hooker long-tubes are no exception. However, they're worth the effort in what you'll gain in terms of power and quality.
If your Mustang has power steering, you will need to disconnect the power cylinder underneath to get it out of your way. Chances are you'll have to cut your exhaust pipes and build a fresh H-pipe designed to tie the Hooker collectors into the rest of your exhaust system. This is where you'll need the talents of a good exhaust shop. We suggest an H-pipe with a balance tube for better performance and sound.
We enlisted the help of Gil's Muffler Shop in Northridge, California, to tackle the installation of our Hooker Dark Side scavengers, which are replacing an old set of try-Y headers on a well-worn '65 Mustang hardtop. Everything that could leak on this car leaked, which made the installation challenging and, at times, frustrating. Gil's Muffler took it in stride.
Hooker's Dark Side long-tube...
Hooker's Dark Side long-tube headers (PN 6901-3HKR for '65-'73 small-block Mustangs) are ceramic-coated in black for good looks, corrosion prevention, and heat containment. They can withstand up to 1,700 degrees F. Once installed, few will know that these scavengers are there thanks to their stealthy demeanor.
Gil's Muffler Shop begins...
Gil's Muffler Shop begins by cutting the exhaust pipe at the vintage tri-Y header collectors.
Every so often, we come across...
Every so often, we come across an old hot rod relic. These are antique tri-Y headers from the 1970s, brand unknown. Header tubes are too large for the application, which insults street torque. Hooker Dark Sides with the right-size primary tubes will fix that problem.
Spark plug wires must be disconnected...
Spark plug wires must be disconnected so the spark plugs can come out to make room for header removal and installation. Spark plug removal on 289 Fords is straightforward except for No. 5, which calls for a universal or swivel-head ratchet.
Header flange disconnection...
Header flange disconnection calls for a 3/8-inch box-end or open-end wrench, depending on which bolt you're tackling. Header flanges are a bear to get a socket or box-end wrench on. Sometimes you have to modify the wrench with a grinder to get it on a bolt head.
Be prepared to disconnect...
Be prepared to disconnect things that have nothing to do with the exhaust system. On '65-'70 Mustangs with power steering, you will have to disconnect the power cylinder underneath and swing it out of the way to make room for header removal and installation. You may even have to drop the control valve and linkage.
Gil's Muffler hauls out the...
Gil's Muffler hauls out the old tri-Y headers. The right-hand side is easy. The left-hand side takes patience.
Believe it or not, the old...
Believe it or not, the old try-Ys were salvageable pieces for someone who wants to build a period hot-rod Mustang. They could be media-blasted, cleaned up, and ceramic coated.
Gil's Muffler goes for easy...
Gil's Muffler goes for easy gasket installation so the gasket can be dropped into place once the new headers are in place.
Because the Mustang's owner...
Because the Mustang's owner won't be using the choke heat tubes that Hooker provides, Gil's Muffler has elected to cut the tubes short. It really isn't necessary to cut them.
The new Dark Side headers...
The new Dark Side headers are guided into place from underneath and bolted to the cylinder heads.
It's a good idea to get all...
It's a good idea to get all the bolts started, but don't tighten until all bolts are in. Use anti-cease on bolt threads.
The left-hand header is guided...
The left-hand header is guided into place. This gets particularly challenging with power steering and even more challenging if you have a manual transmission with the original bellcrank-style clutch linkage, which will have to come out and be reinstalled after the headers are in place.
Some header bolts can be accessed...
Some header bolts can be accessed from underneath.
This is a clean installation...
This is a clean installation where the new headers clear everything, including the power steering cylinder. You will need a power cylinder extension bracket if your Mustang has never had headers before. Summit Racing Equipment can help you with that.
It's not uncommon to have...
It's not uncommon to have to modify a wrench or use an open-end wrench to tighten header bolts. This is a Snap On 3/8-inch box-end wrench and even it won't fit onto this bolt. An open-end wrench is your only option here.
The power cylinder is reconnected...
The power cylinder is reconnected at this time.
Header collector flanges are...
Header collector flanges are installed next in preparation for the exhaust pipes.
Gil's Muffler trims off the...
Gil's Muffler trims off the excess exhaust pipe that we won't need to complete this installation. In truth, this Mustang needs a new performance exhaust system. Budgetary concerns have forced the owner to make due with a pipe bridge for now.
If you live in Southern California,...
If you live in Southern California, Gil's Muffler Shop is worth the trip for a good custom exhaust system. Their work is exceptional and they have a lot of show car experience. Here, Gil's Muffler builds an H-pipe for us.
Gil's Muffler Shop wraps up...
Gil's Muffler Shop wraps up our installation with a nice H-pipe package. Always go with a balance tube in any dual exhaust system you build.