Vinyl tops were one of the original factory options for early Mustangs. Available in black and white for '65-'66, the grained tops added a distinctive, contrasting appearance to hardtop models. Like everything else on older Mustangs, replacement is a fact of life, as exposure to the elements can take its toll on the vinyl material. Fortunately, replacement tops are available for just over $100 from most Mustang parts vendors. The actual remove-and-replace procedure is not that difficult. However, there are some tricks to the trade for achieving a wrinkle-free job, so you may want to employ a professional. Check with your favorite Mustang shop or talk to upholstery specialists in your area. Shops that specialize in upholstery or convertible tops can usually handle vinyl top replacement.
Because moisture can become trapped underneath the vinyl material, you may have to deal with rust on the sheetmetal roof before installing the new top. Minor surface rust can be easily treated. However, major rust repair, which could include actual holes, may require the services of a body and paint shop.
Bobby starts the installation...
Bobby starts the installation by spraying contact cement on the roof. Then he lays the vinyl in position and folds it over.
Our '66 Mustang GT came from the factory with the white vinyl top, which has been replaced several times over the years. Currently, the car is undergoing a full restoration at Classic Creations of Central Florida, so owner Merv Rego enlisted Bobby Elen from Lakeland, Florida's J&B Auto Upholstery to stop by to professionally install the new top, which was acquired from National Parts Depot. The front and rear glass was already out, and minor surface rust on the roof had been repaired during the bodywork in preparation for the fresh Signalflare Red paint. If you're simply replacing the top, you'll have to remove the front and rear window glass and moldings (which makes this a good time to repair any leaks), drip rail retainer and moldings (requires drilling out rivets), and the quarter-panel chrome trim, which is attached behind the sheetmetal via nuts, so you'll have to remove the rear seat, interior quarter trim panels, and package shelf for access.
Bobby has been replacing vinyl tops for many years, so he was able to provide us with some interesting tips. On Mustangs that originally came with vinyl tops, you'll find small punch marks in the upper glass channels that were used to line up the seams at the factory. Bobby uses these marks for the same reason when replacing tops. He also pointed out small tacking nails at the bottom of the A and C pillars; these were used to hold the vinyl top corners in place during factory installation. They are an indication that a car was factory-equipped with a vinyl top but aren't used for replacement.
Getting the top on straight...
Getting the top on straight is vital. For early Mustangs that came with the vinyl roof from the factory, look for these punch marks in the upper glass channels, both front and rear. They were put there at the factory to help line up the pair of vinyl top seams. Bobby still uses them today to align new tops. If the Mustang did not come with the vinyl top from the factory, you will need to make measurements.
On '65-'66 Mustangs, small aluminum strips were riveted into the driprails to retain the edges of the top. Like most, the strips on our hardtop were broken at the sharp corners over the rear quarter window, and we quickly learned that these strips, not reproduced at this time, are hard to locate. Fortunately, we were able to locate an intact pair at Mustangs Etc.

With the top still folded...

With the top still folded over, Bobby adds a coat of contact cement to the back of the vinyl material.

After flipping the top over,...

After flipping the top over, Bobby pulls tight at the corners. Be sure to press the material into the body line indention along the rear of the roof.

Bobby makes sure that the...

Bobby makes sure that the vinyl material is secure at the A and C pillars. If needed, he will lift the vinyl and apply more glue underneath.

After smoothing out wrinkles,...

After smoothing out wrinkles, Bobby uses a razor blade to trim the vinyl at the front and rear windows. He says to trim long, never short.

To keep the corners from wrinkling,...

To keep the corners from wrinkling, Bobby cuts small slits in the edges of the material. They will be hidden behind the window molding.

Bobby trims at the top of...

Bobby trims at the top of the quarter-panels. Chrome trim will cover the edges here.

Continuing to trim, Bobby...

Continuing to trim, Bobby cuts out the side window area.

A putty knife is used to press...

A putty knife is used to press the vinyl material into the driprails before final trimming along the sides of the car.

Instead of removing the windshield...

Instead of removing the windshield molding clips, Bobby cut slits in the material and presses it behind the clips.

Bobby's work is done. The...

Bobby's work is done. The top is smooth and wrinkle-free. Now Merv can install the driprail retaining strips.

Made from thin aluminum, the...

Made from thin aluminum, the convertible top driprail retaining strips are usually broken and have become hard to find in good condition. We found these via Mustangs Etc., a Van Nuys, California, company that specializes in original and NOS parts.

Merv lays the strips in place...

Merv lays the strips in place and aligns them with the factory driprail holes using a sharp punch. We were concerned that the holes in the strips, which came from a different car, may not line up with the driprail holes in our '66 GT, but they fit perfectly.

Long rivets were used to keep...

Long rivets were used to keep the strips in position.

With a small sheetmetal vice-grip...

With a small sheetmetal vice-grip tool holding the strip firmly in the driprail, Merv used 1/8 x 3/8 rivets to secure the strip. Like the factory, the rivets were installed from the bottom up.

Here's how the aluminum strips...

Here's how the aluminum strips look once installed. Not very pretty, which is why the factory covered them with a silicone sealant.

Just like the factory, Merv...

Just like the factory, Merv applied a layer of waterproof silicone sealant over the aluminum retainer strips. Notice that Merv has protected the top material with masking tape. The sealant color should match the top color, either white or black for '65-'66 Mustangs.

A finger can be used to smooth...

A finger can be used to smooth the silicone in the driprail.

Chrome trim covers the edges...

Chrome trim covers the edges of the vinyl top at the top of the quarter-panels. It is retained with nuts behind the sheetmetal.