How do you make power in a reliable street engine? First, we can tell you there are no free lunches when it comes to making power. If you want whopping amounts of power, expect to sacrifice durability, fuel economy, and cash. If you want durability and fuel economy on the cheap, you're going to give up power. It's all about compromise.
Making power is as fundamental as high school physics-turning thermal expansion into rotary motion. The objective is to huff as much air and fuel into each chamber as is possible during the brief moment of time the intake valves are open followed by squeeze and spark. If you want your 289/302 to operate with the authority of a big-block without the weight penalty, Trans Am Racing and Summit Racing Equipment can help with affordable 347ci small-block engines that offer both durability and good street power.

Durability begins with a bottom...

Durability begins with a bottom end designed for horsepower increases. Mark starts with a new 5.0L roller block from Summit Racing Equipment. ARP main studs are a better choice than bolts because they offer strength and rigidity. Mark has coated the block's insides with GE Glyptal to improve oil return flow and seal iron surfaces.
How do you turn a 289 or 302 into 347ci? You take those 4.030-inch bores and stroke them to 3.400-inches of piston travel. With the increase in displacement comes more fuel and air per charge plus the mechanical advantage of stroke. The longer the connecting rod (rod ratio), the greater your piston dwell time top and bottom, which yields more power all by itself. This means you must shop carefully for small-block Ford stroker kits and learn everything you can about them before laying down the cash. Bore and stroke are your first concerns. Then you must consider piston type and design, rod ratio, stroke, and what you will have to do in the way of block modifications.
Every engine builder has a different approach to engine architecture. All want good numbers from their engines. Some go for all-out horsepower, which doesn't always work on the street unless you like speeding tickets and high gas receipts. Horsepower is an element of speed. Torque is the process of getting up to speed. Torque always hands off to horsepower. If you're building a strong street engine, you need a broad torque curve-an engine that pulls like stink from around 2,500 rpm and keeps hauling to 5,500 rpm when it hands off to peak horsepower around 6,000 rpm.

Proper bearing installation...

Proper bearing installation is crucial to durability. Bearings must be bone dry between the bearing and saddle for security and good crush, which means the bearing cap and saddle put a nice squeeze on the bearing to make it perfectly round and keep it secure. The bearing tang is for reference and alignment only.

Ford began using a one-piece...

Ford began using a one-piece rear main seal in 1982 on 5.0L (302ci) engines to prevent leakage. Your machine shop can convert your classic 289/302 small-block Ford to one-piece rear main seal, which involves machining both crankshaft and block, but it is money well spent in leak prevention.
Mark Jeffrey of Trans Am Racing builds his street engines with uniform amounts of horsepower and torque. He likes an engine you can drive to work with during the week and go racing with on Saturday night. This is what our Budget 347 is all about-torque for the street and horsepower for racing. What's more, it doesn't have to be expensive because we're going with a beefed-up cast-steel crank (a fancy term for nodular iron), strong I-beam connecting rods, and forged flat-top pistons along with low-friction rings. We've also opted for an aggressive roller street/strip cam from Comp Cams. On top are Mark's own port-massaged Edelbrock Performer RPM cylinder heads with Air Gap induction and Holley carburetion. As always, Mark has specified MSD ignition to light the mixture.
Next month, we're going to the dyno lab at Westech Performance to show how much power is made and what tuning changes can be performed to make more of it.

Main bearings are coated with...

Main bearings are coated with generous helpings of Comp Cams engine assembly lube. The rear main seal saddle has been coated with good old-fashioned Form-A-Gasket. Smells funny, but seals like few others. One alternative to Form-A-Gasket is The Right Stuff.

Mark sets the cast steel stroker...

Mark sets the cast steel stroker crank from Trans Am Racing. Durability comes from heat treating and shotpeening the crank along with larger radiuses, polishing, and oil hole chamfering. Main caps are installed and checked at this time. Once main caps are torqued to specifications, Mark will check crankshaft endplay. Endplay should be .004-.008-inch.

Mark opts for a main stud...

Mark opts for a main stud girdle in addition to main studs, which makes the small-block Ford's bottom end more stable. Be mindful of clearances. Make sure the crankshaft counterweights and oil pump clear the stud girdle by at least .060-inch.
Dynamic Balancing
There's a source of destruction trying to beat its way out of every engine. Vibration, no matter how small, does engine damage. If you can feel vibration at the steering wheel or shifter, imagine how bad it is inside the engine.
Dynamic balancing of rotating and reciprocating parts means smoothness at all rpm ranges. From the factory, engines get a process called Detroit balance, which is mass production-style of balancing. This means getting balance within a rather large window, which isn't good enough for a performance engine. Go the extra mile and have your engine builder dynamic balance your engine's internals.
Dynamic balancing performed by your engine builder will deliver smoothness at all rpm ranges. MCE Engines in Los Angeles, for example, likes to get parts within 1/10 of a gram. Most builders are within 1/2 gram. Regardless, when balancing an engine, the crankshaft is spun like a tire on a balancing machine. Pistons, rings, and rods are weighed for compatibility with crankshaft counterweights to where they doe-see-doe around each other smoothly.

Mark opted for a Comp Cams'...

Mark opted for a Comp Cams' custom grind-232/232 duration, .550/.550-inch lift with 110-degree lobe centers. Mark bases his selection on displacement and expected rpm range. He looks at how high he has to spin the engine to make power and what the customer wants at idle. The 232/232 degrees of duration provides a smoother idle. Mark wants valves on their seats the most minimum amount of time possible in his pursuit of power. He also looks at how quickly valves open and close, known as ramp rate.

Mark has chosen to go with...

Mark has chosen to go with a Comp Cams dual-roller timing set, which reduces friction. It also maintains more precision timing because there's very little chain stretch over time. Because it is a true chain drive, stress is distributed over a broader surface area.

When you're running a dual-roller...

When you're running a dual-roller timing set, do not use the factory oil slinger. It will interfere with the chain, causing engine damage.

Main cap stud torque is different...

Main cap stud torque is different than with bolts because you're torquing both stud and nut. Visit ARP's website, www.arp-bolts.com, for proper torque specs on page 24 of the ARP catalog.

Mark dresses piston rings...

Mark dresses piston rings before fitment and installation to prevent abnormal wear patterns. You should too. Sharp edges on all parts should be dressed to prevent galling and stress cracks.

Amass a room full of engine...

Amass a room full of engine builders and you will get a variety of opinions on piston ring installation. Some roll rings on. Some use expanders. Today, thinner low-friction rings can be rolled on as Mark demonstrates here because there's less chance of distortion.

When stroking a 289/302 block...

When stroking a 289/302 block to 347 ci, block cylinder skirts must be notched to clear connecting rod bolts during the block's machining and mock-up phases.

Connecting rod side clearances...

Connecting rod side clearances are checked once all rods are torqued and assembly is checked for smooth rotation. Rod side clearances are .007-.014-inch depending on how hard you intend to run the engine.

Trans Am Racing goes with...

Trans Am Racing goes with screw-in oil galley plugs for oil system security. A small .020-inch oil hole is drilled into one plug for improved timing set and distributor gear lubrication.

Just because an oil pump is...

Just because an oil pump is new doesn't make it ready for service. Disassemble and inspect the oil pump for proper clearances. Because manufacturers run pumps before they're packaged, it becomes easy to see wear patterns and potential trouble spots. Although this is a new pump, it obviously hasn't been machined true considering this wear pattern. Check the pressure relief piston while you're at it for freedom of movement.

Mark checks oil pump clearances...

Mark checks oil pump clearances with girdle and crank. Clearance should be at least .060-inch minimum.

Before Mark installs the Trans...

Before Mark installs the Trans Am Racing deep-sump pan, he checks pan and pickup depth and clearances. This should be done with all pans, including stock applications. You want at least .060-inch between pickup and pan.

Some engine builders soak...

Some engine builders soak hydraulic lifters in SAE 30 weight engine oil before installation, which isn't a bad idea. Mark dresses his roller tappets with assembly lube for lubrication that endures prior to that first start-up. Also, Mark primes the oiling system by running the pump with a power drill before distributor installation. This gets lubrication to bearing journals and lifters for a good wet start-up.

The lifter retainer, known...

The lifter retainer, known as the spider, is next once lifter dog bones are in place. Read the dog bones where it says, "Up" because it's easy to get them backwards. There are two types of spiders, one for roller blocks and one for retrofitting classic blocks. Difference is bolt hole locations. Use a thread locker on fasteners.

Cylinder head gasket installation...

Cylinder head gasket installation goes just one way. Coolant passages go at the back of your block. Get this backwards and you will have overheating.

Mark is using Edelbrock on...

Mark is using Edelbrock on top with #77389 Victor Jr. 70cc chamber cylinder heads and #7521 Air Gap induction topped by an 830-cfm #0-9381 Holley. Because these are 351W heads on a 289/302 block, Mark uses Edelbrock #9680 bolt bushings with ARP bolts. Mark has ported both heads and manifold to achieve outstanding flow numbers.

Mark has opted for Trick Flow...

Mark has opted for Trick Flow Specialties 1.7:1 ratio rocker arms (#51400520) and one-piece hardened pushrods (#21406400). The 1.7:1 rocker ratio provides more valve lift than 1.6:1 rockers, with Mark stating that Ford engines like more lift. Mark adds that his decisions are based on years of dyno experience.

Even the best intake manifold...

Even the best intake manifold gaskets need help around cooling passages. Just a super-thin film of sealer around each passage can ward off leakage. Do the same along the bottom of each intake port to prevent oil from being ingested.

Mark has performed a lot of...

Mark has performed a lot of port work on this Edelbrock Performer Air Gap dual-plane intake manifold. The Air Gap has proven better than the standard Performer RPM due to its larger, longer intake runners. Mark's port work is icing on the cake. For street and strip, you want a dual-plane manifold with longer runners, which improves street torque.

Because Holley has been in...

Because Holley has been in the performance carburetor business longer than most of us have been around, Mark opts for experience. This is the double pumper, dual feed Holley #0-9381 830-cfm performance carburetor with annular boosters. It presented Mark with outstanding results on the dyno atop two different intake manifolds.