Fox-Body Mustang Centerforce Clutch Replacement - Replace A Fox-body Clutch

12 Gil uses a spare slip yoke to keep transmission fluid inside the transmission.

13a The clutch cable is disconnected and removed using a pair of open-end 1/2-inch wrenches. The cable assembly is retained with a simple Tinnerman’s clip.

13b The battery has been disconnected and the starter removed on the opposite side.

14 After removing the six bellhousing bolts with a 5⁄8-inch socket, Gil removes the bellhousing, which is specific to late-model cable-activated clutches.

15 Gil removes his Mustang’s diaphragm-style pressure plate and clutch with a 1/2-inch socket wrench. It’s a good idea to wear a dust mask or respirator when removing an old clutch because friction material is dangerous to your lungs.

16 This old flywheel is heat damaged and badly scored from clutch disc slippage. Although you cannot see it here, there is also heat cracking, which calls for flywheel replacement. No point in resurfacing this flywheel.

17 Gil has removed the flywheel and separator plate. The clutch pilot bearing is removed with a special puller. If you don’t have a puller, you can also pack the area behind the old pilot bearing with wheel bearing grease and use a clutch alignment tool with the gentle whack of a hammer to drive it out.

18 Gil is using new Ford Racing flywheel bolts from Mustangs Unlimited (#M-4216-A210). Always use a thread sealer/locker on these bolts, which pass directly into the crankcase and can leak.

19 The flywheel bolts get 75-85 ft-lb and should be torqued in both third values and crisscross. Snug first, then torque.

20 Before installing, Gil checked the Centerforce Dual-Friction disc for proper fit and slide on the T-5’s input shaft. This ascertains that there is no scoring or burring on the shaft splines.

21 The clutch pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces are thoroughly cleaned with brake cleaner to remove all contaminants.

22 The Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch disc and pressure plate are installed using the Centerforce reference marks at the flywheel and pressure plate, located in this case at 11 o’clock. Gil uses a thread locker and 35 ft-lb of torque crisscross once all bolts are snug. Then he double-checks each bolt.

23 Install the clutch release bearing like this after lubricating with high-temperature grease at the bearing and pivot ball. Gil stresses that you should not overdo this or you could end up with grease all over your new clutch disc.

24 The Bellhousing is reinstalled using a 5/8-inch socket.

25 Before Gil reinstalls the T-5 transmission, he takes time to install the BBK2700-01 short-throw Gripp shifter. The shifter’s ball end is lubricated with high-temperature grease and seated as shown. Adjustment is easy by moving the shifter into each gear and adjusting the set screws just shy of shifter travel limit, which prevents internal transmission damage during hard shifting.

26 The transmission is reinstalled, with Gil remembering all electrical and sensor connections along with reinstalling the driveshaft and speedometer cable. Now is the time to replace the slip yoke, tailshaft housing sleeve, and universal joints if needed. Thanks to the clutch alignment tool that Centerforce provides with each Dual-Friction clutch, installation is easy. Once the transmission is seated in the bellhousing, Gil reinstalls the transmission to bellhousing bolts using a 5⁄8-inch socket followed by mount and crossmember.

27 Clutch adjustment involves tightening the cable adjustment nuts until you have 1⁄8- to 1/4-inch cable side-play per the Centerforce instructions. Fine-tune cable adjustment with a test drive to determine feel and operation. Reinstall the clutch fork dust cover.

28 A new shift dust seal and boot are installed along with a new leather-clad shift knob (#M-7213-G). What this all means for Gil is durability and real driving confidence.