The ’79-’95 Fox-body Mustangs are hot, plentiful, and cheap right now, which makes them excellent project cars. Gil Ruiz at Mustangs Etc. found his ’89 GT convertible waiting for a buyer at the grand larceny price of $500.
We know what you’re thinking. However, this is a running, drivable GT drop-top for 500 bucks just to get it out of someone’s driveway. Sure, the car needs cosmetic work and its share of mechanical repairs. However, it was a smoking deal, freeing up cash for restoration and mechanical work that will turn this classic Fox into a reliable fun car. Gil’s GT has a Tremec World Class T-5 transmission in good shape, coupled to a 5.0L High Output engine with Edelbrock Performer heads.
1 The Centerforce Dual-Friction...
1 The Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch assembly takes all the effort out of manual shift driving in classic and late-model Mustangs alike. Also pictured here is the Centerforce steel billet flywheel and the front bearing retainer from Mustangs Unlimited (far right).
When Gil was accelerating onto the freeway recently, his engine revved but his Mustang didn’t accelerate, followed by the aroma of burning friction material and the realization that his 5.0 needed a new clutch. We contacted Will Baty at Centerforce, who recommended a Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch and pressure plate, along with a 50-ounce offset balance steel flywheel designed specifically for late-model 5.0L engines. Made from steel billet, not iron, the flywheel is ready for just about any kind of driving.
2 Gil is also adding a BBK...
2 Gil is also adding a BBK short-throw “Gripp” shifter from Mustangs Unlimited to improve his driving experience.
Centerforce’s patented Dual-Friction clutch comes with a matched pressure plate for feather-light pedal effort coupled with solid hookup as engine revs increase. The Centerforce traditional diaphragm clutch design is married to centrifugal weights that apply more pressure as rpms rise. Gone is that leg-taxing pressure from those old three-finger clutches.
While Gil had his T-5 out of the car, he also added a BBK short-throw shifter (#BBK-2701) and heavy-duty T-5 front bearing retainer (#7050A) from Mustangs Unlimited to improve both durability and his daily driving experience.
3 Gil removes the stock shifter...
3 Gil removes the stock shifter knob, boot, and dust seal to free up his T-5 underneath. Thankfully, late-model Mustangs are easy to work with when it comes to transmission removal and installation.
4 Both oxygen sensors need...
4 Both oxygen sensors need to be disconnected for exhaust system removal.
5 The exhaust H-pipe is disconnected...
5 The exhaust H-pipe is disconnected at the factory shorty headers and ahead of the mufflers, which will free up Gil’s rusted exhaust system. Gil plans to install a new exhaust system soon.
6 Gil disconnects the driveshaft,...
6 Gil disconnects the driveshaft, marking both driveshaft and differential yokes for proper installation later. These are 12mm x 1.75 thread bolts, which call for a 12mm 12-point socket and a 1/2-inch drive wrench. And remember proper torque reading and a thread locker when it’s time to reinstall. Bolt torque is 85 ft-lb in crisscross fashion once bolts are hand-tight.
7 All electrical connections...
7 All electrical connections are disconnected along with the speed sensor and speedometer cable. Exhaust system mounts are part of the transmission mount. Gil needs new rubber exhaust mounts because one is completely missing.
8 With the T-5 supported,...
8 With the T-5 supported, Gil removes the transmission crossmember. What makes a Fox-body crossmember different from classic Mustangs is vibration isolation. Check out the beefy mounts on each end.
9 Gil prefers to remove the...
9 Gil prefers to remove the T-5 first using a 5⁄8-inch socket, followed by the bellhousing. The T-5 is secured with four bellhousing bolts that are easy to access on both sides.
10 Mustangs Unlimited provided...
10 Mustangs Unlimited provided us with a new front bearing retainer for Gil’s T-5. The factory bearing retainer is made entirely of aluminum, enabling the clutch release bearing to wear a groove in the tube.
11 Our #7050A bearing retainer...
11 Our #7050A bearing retainer has an aluminum flange and steel tube for durability.
12 Gil uses a spare slip...
12 Gil uses a spare slip yoke to keep transmission fluid inside the transmission.
13a The clutch cable is disconnected...
13a The clutch cable is disconnected and removed using a pair of open-end 1/2-inch wrenches. The cable assembly is retained with a simple Tinnerman’s clip.
13b The battery has been...
13b The battery has been disconnected and the starter removed on the opposite side.
14 After removing the six...
14 After removing the six bellhousing bolts with a 5⁄8-inch socket, Gil removes the bellhousing, which is specific to late-model cable-activated clutches.
15 Gil removes his Mustang’s...
15 Gil removes his Mustang’s diaphragm-style pressure plate and clutch with a 1/2-inch socket wrench. It’s a good idea to wear a dust mask or respirator when removing an old clutch because friction material is dangerous to your lungs.
16 This old flywheel is heat...
16 This old flywheel is heat damaged and badly scored from clutch disc slippage. Although you cannot see it here, there is also heat cracking, which calls for flywheel replacement. No point in resurfacing this flywheel.
17 Gil has removed the flywheel...
17 Gil has removed the flywheel and separator plate. The clutch pilot bearing is removed with a special puller. If you don’t have a puller, you can also pack the area behind the old pilot bearing with wheel bearing grease and use a clutch alignment tool with the gentle whack of a hammer to drive it out.
18 Gil is using new Ford...
18 Gil is using new Ford Racing flywheel bolts from Mustangs Unlimited (#M-4216-A210). Always use a thread sealer/locker on these bolts, which pass directly into the crankcase and can leak.
19 The flywheel bolts get...
19 The flywheel bolts get 75-85 ft-lb and should be torqued in both third values and crisscross. Snug first, then torque.
20 Before installing, Gil...
20 Before installing, Gil checked the Centerforce Dual-Friction disc for proper fit and slide on the T-5’s input shaft. This ascertains that there is no scoring or burring on the shaft splines.
21 The clutch pressure plate...
21 The clutch pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces are thoroughly cleaned with brake cleaner to remove all contaminants.
22 The Centerforce Dual-Friction...
22 The Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch disc and pressure plate are installed using the Centerforce reference marks at the flywheel and pressure plate, located in this case at 11 o’clock. Gil uses a thread locker and 35 ft-lb of torque crisscross once all bolts are snug. Then he double-checks each bolt.
23 Install the clutch release...
23 Install the clutch release bearing like this after lubricating with high-temperature grease at the bearing and pivot ball. Gil stresses that you should not overdo this or you could end up with grease all over your new clutch disc.
24 The Bellhousing is reinstalled...
24 The Bellhousing is reinstalled using a 5/8-inch socket.
25 Before Gil reinstalls...
25 Before Gil reinstalls the T-5 transmission, he takes time to install the BBK2700-01 short-throw Gripp shifter. The shifter’s ball end is lubricated with high-temperature grease and seated as shown. Adjustment is easy by moving the shifter into each gear and adjusting the set screws just shy of shifter travel limit, which prevents internal transmission damage during hard shifting.
26 The transmission is reinstalled,...
26 The transmission is reinstalled, with Gil remembering all electrical and sensor connections along with reinstalling the driveshaft and speedometer cable. Now is the time to replace the slip yoke, tailshaft housing sleeve, and universal joints if needed. Thanks to the clutch alignment tool that Centerforce provides with each Dual-Friction clutch, installation is easy. Once the transmission is seated in the bellhousing, Gil reinstalls the transmission to bellhousing bolts using a 5⁄8-inch socket followed by mount and crossmember.
27 Clutch adjustment involves...
27 Clutch adjustment involves tightening the cable adjustment nuts until you have 1⁄8- to 1/4-inch cable side-play per the Centerforce instructions. Fine-tune cable adjustment with a test drive to determine feel and operation. Reinstall the clutch fork dust cover.
28 A new shift dust seal...
28 A new shift dust seal and boot are installed along with a new leather-clad shift knob (#M-7213-G). What this all means for Gil is durability and real driving confidence.