There’s no question that replacing original drum brakes with disc brakes is one of the best safety upgrades you can make to a vintage Mustang. Today, the options include modern calipers and rotors, which improve braking performance over the factory’s optional front disc brakes. Taking it up a notch is the availability of rear disc brakes, which were never offered on ’65-’73 Mustangs from the factory.
The key to Master Power Brake’s...
The key to Master Power Brake’s new front disc brake conversion is the fully assembled disc brake assembly, which includes an 11-inch slotted rotor, late-model two-piston caliper, and spindles. Two brake assemblies are included, along with new hoses.
While most front disc brake conversions are offered as kits with rotors and calipers for installation on the existing spindles, Master Power Brakes’ latest product for ’65-’73 Mustangs comes fully assembled on brand-new spindles with late-model Mustang two-piston calipers and 11-inch slotted rotors. Master Power offers two kits: DB1520B for ’64½-’66 Mustangs and DB1524B for ’67-’73 Mustangs. For the ’65-’66 kits, the spindles are aftermarket Granada-style, which bolt right up to the Mustang control arms and tie rod.
While Master Power’s latest disc brake kit eliminates the need to assemble the calipers and rotors, including the messy job of packing grease into the wheel bearings, the swap does involve the somewhat laborious job of removing the existing spindles from the upper ball joint, lower ball joint, and tie rod. Of course, for many of our experienced readers with a well-equipped tool box, that’s a piece of cake.
Because new ’65-’66 Mustang...
Because new ’65-’66 Mustang spindles aren’t available, Master Power uses new Granada-style spindles on kit DB1520B.
Also note that, as with most performance-based front disc brakes, larger wheels may be required to clear the calipers. Master Power recommends 15-inch or larger. After Merv Rego and Levi Kelly tackled the swap on Mark Houlahan’s ’66 Mustang hardtop at Classic Creations of Central Florida, we performed a test-fit with Mark’s factory 14-inch Styled Steel wheels. They wouldn’t even mount on the hub. Next we tried a standard 14-inch steel wheel, which fit over the hub but didn’t clear the caliper. Most aftermarket 15-inch and larger wheels should fit without issues. As with any brake swap that involves larger rotors and calipers, be sure to consider wheel fitment.
To prepare for the swap, jack...
To prepare for the swap, jack up the car and support it securely on jackstands at the front frame rails, then remove the front wheels.
With a jack placed under the...
With a jack placed under the lower control arm, raise the front end assembly.
Support the upper A-arm by...
Support the upper A-arm by placing sturdy blocks of wood between the arm and frame. This will keep the upper arm raised to help provide separation between it and the lower control arm when removing the spindle and brake assembly.
Disconnect the brake hose...
Disconnect the brake hose from the body brake line. If you can quickly cap the line, it will prevent brake fluid from leaking and simplify the bleeding job later. The old hose can be removed with the drum brake assembly; Master Power provides a new hose for their disc brakes.
The spindle attaches to the...
The spindle attaches to the front suspension at the upper ball joint, lower ball joint, and tie-rod end. To prepare for disassembly, remove the cotter pins and castellated nuts at the three locations.
If you’re fortunate, a few...
If you’re fortunate, a few solid whacks with a large hammer will release the tie-rod end and ball joint studs. Merv notes that it’s a good idea to loosely reinstall the nuts to protect the stud threads—just in case your aim is off and you accidently hit a stud with the hammer.
Ball joints are notoriously...
Ball joints are notoriously tough to break loose. If your hammer whacks fail to release them, you’ll need some type of tool, like a ball joint separator. You can also use a hammer and a pickle fork, but take care not to damage the ball joint’s rubber boot.
With the studs disconnected,...
With the studs disconnected, the drum brake/spindle can be removed as an assembly. You will need to push down on the lower control arm for enough separation to clear the upper and lower ball joint studs. Disconnecting the front sway bar will allow more movement.
In a reversal of the drum...
In a reversal of the drum brake removal, position the Master Power disc brake assembly into place at the three studs starting with the lower ball joint.
Install the three nuts and...
Install the three nuts and tighten to specification (see Shop Manual for torque specs).
Install the new brake hose,...
Install the new brake hose, as provided in the Master Power kit. Once both sides are installed, bleed the front brakes to remove any air that might have entered the system.
The Master Power assembled...
The Master Power assembled disc brakes will provide much improved stopping over factory drum brakes. With late-model calipers, they are also an improvement over factory disc brakes.