If you’re wrestling with a rough-running Ford six-cylinder engine, you’re not alone. Drivability issues exist mostly in the induction system thanks to a poorly engineered log-style integral intake manifold coupled with the antiquated Autolite 1100 series one-barrel carburetor. However, Ford’s Loadomatic distributor can be another source of misery for rough-running 170 and 200ci sixes. Because old-fashioned ignition points are electro-mechanical in scope, they become pitted, burned, and worn through time and use. There is a better way to light the fire in your nimble Ford six.
Ignitor II installation begins...
Ignitor II installation begins with removal of the old points and condenser. Points are retained with two cross-slot screws; the condenser with one cross-slot screw. Take care not to drop these screws inside the distributor.
Founded by Lavar Holman in 1962 as a manufacturer of lighting systems for big trucks, PerTronix was originally known as Per-Lux. In the early 1970s, one of Per-Lux’s engineers came up with an electronic ignition for point-triggered distributors. In those days, retrofit electronic ignition systems were intended mostly for lift trucks and industrial applications. Fleet managers loved the Per-Lux electronic ignition system, which came more into widespread use as time went on.
The Per-Lux electronic ignition system evolved into the PerTronix Ignitor, which has been the classic Mustang’s most popular retrofit for more than 20 years. Enthusiasts love the Ignitor, Ignitor II, and new Ignitor III for ease of installation and precision tuning in about 30 minutes. It doesn’t take any longer to install the Ignitor than changing and gapping points—and it never has to be tuned again. The Ignitor II system develops up to four times more electrical energy at 3,000-5,000 rpm than your point-triggered dinosaur, especially if you combine it with PerTronix’s Flame-Thrower II ignition coil.
A 5⁄16-inch ignition wrench...
A 5⁄16-inch ignition wrench disconnects both negative and condenser leads. Watch out for the ground lead, which must be connected to your new PerTronix Ignitor.
Note that the Loadomatic distributor is compatible only with an Autolite 1100 carburetor equipped with the spark control valve for proper spark advance. If your Autolite 1100 carb doesn’t have a spark control valve and you have a Loadomatic distributor, you will not have proper spark advance.
Terry Simpson at The Restomod Shop in Stockton, California, had a customer bring him a ’66 Mustang that has been a pleasure cruiser for 45 years. The Restomod Shop gave this car a nice freshening up, including a paint job, but couldn’t get past the perplexing drivability problems. They tried carburetor tuning and swapping, and they also tried adjusting points and ignition timing. It was decided this Mustang needed the PerTronix Ignitor II from Mustangs Plus to stand half a chance at good performance tuning.
Of all the modifications we...
Of all the modifications we can think of, none has made a greater difference for enthusiasts than the PerTronix Ignitor series. Whether you choose the original Ignitor, Ignitor II, or new Ignitor III, 30 minutes with simple hand tools gets the job done. The Ignitor system provides better coil saturation resulting in a more powerful spark for improved cold starts and smoother operation.
The Ignitor II is retained...
The Ignitor II is retained with a single cross-slot screw instead of two like the original contact points.
The reluctor (magnetic shutter...
The reluctor (magnetic shutter wheel) is installed next. It fits over the distributor cam.
This plastic feeler gauge...
This plastic feeler gauge (.030-inch) is included in the Ignitor kit to set reluctor gap. Set the gap and lock your Ignitor II down. Check the air gap again.
Reinstall the distributor...
Reinstall the distributor rotor after checking for good continuity (low resistance).
The Ignitor II red and black...
The Ignitor II red and black leads feed through the plate as shown. Red goes to the positive side of the ignition coil. Black goes to the negative side. Terry zip-tied the leads together, but not tight, to clear the rotor.
It’s a good idea to protect...
It’s a good idea to protect both leads with anti-chafe PowerBraid conduit from Painless Performance, then heat shrink for security.
We mentioned where Ignitor...
We mentioned where Ignitor II leads go. However, we didn’t mention where power comes from. Do not use the pink resistance wire used with stock ignition systems, which is reduced power at nine-volts. Bypass the pink resistor wire and get 12-volts directly from the ignition switch. It is not necessary to cut wiring, just disconnect the pink resistance wire and bypass using AWG 20 copper strand wire (ideally red) from the switched power source to the coil. All Ignitor modules must have 12-volts.
Because vintage Fords don’t...
Because vintage Fords don’t have a ballast resistor, but instead a resistance wire, they get wired like this.
Check the condition of your...
Check the condition of your distributor cap and ignition wires. A cracked distributor cap creates all kinds of electrical gremlins. So do pitted and corroded terminals. Opt for a high-quality cap and ignition wires with brass terminals for best results. Check the resistance of each ignition wire even when they’re fresh out of the box.
Although most classic Mustang...
Although most classic Mustang applications have a 90-degree press-on plug for both points and power, you will find the most solid connection will look like this with eyelets and nuts. We’ve seen this connection using the stock 90-degree plug and the Ignitor connection piggyback style, however it is not recommended. It is suggested you solder all connections for best results.
Ignitor installation mandates...
Ignitor installation mandates checking ignition timing along with dwell angle with a tach-dwell meter. Ignition timing for sixes is 6 degrees BTDC with manual transmission and 12 degrees BTDC for automatics. The best advice we can offer is starting at factory specifications, then perform a road test with moderate acceleration. Gradually advance the base ignition timing one degree at a time, then road test and check the timing again. If pinging (spark knock) occurs under acceleration, retard the ignition timing one degree at a time. Be sure to check vacuum advance for proper operation.