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How To - Convert To Fox-body Five-Lug WheelsExpand your wheel choices without breaking the bank using Latemodel Restoration Supply’s all inclusive kit From the January, 2012 issue of Mustang Monthly By Mark Houlahan
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Ask any vintage Mustang owner who has an inline six between their front fenders how aggravating it is to find any aftermarket wheel that fits their ride. Yes, there are a few, but not nearly the expansive selection as those endowed with five studs per axle. Thankfully, due to Ford's typical parts sharing of the 1980s and newer models, it's quite easy to find the hardware to convert a Fox-body Mustang to five-lugs and open the door to hundreds of wheel choices. The one problem, though, is the age of these parts and finding hardware in a salvage yard that isn't beyond its service limits or damaged from an accident. Thankfully, the aftermarket has researched this swap and we can now order a complete low-buck conversion kit utilizing all new parts and including everything right down to the friction modifier for the differential, all under one part number. Of course, once you go five-lug, you need five-lug wheels. We like our Foxes with solid performing updates that address all of the Fox Mustang weaknesses without going to one extreme or another--ostensibly we're talking about a powerful street car with great handling and braking along with some ergonomic and comfort upgrades. No drag cars or trailered track rats here, just a clean daily or weekend driver. That's where the folks at Latemodel Restoration Supply come in. LRS has been dealing in Fox upgrades and restoration parts before the Fox really took off as the hobby's next project car, and they've been at the forefront of new products, reproductions of obsolete items, and more. LRS offers a five-lug conversion kit and has even packaged it with a couple of popular wheel and tire packages. We chose the five-lug conversion kit with LRS's anthracite 10th anniversary Cobra-look wheel (part number WTK-1007AAAK). While we were tearing into the brake system, we opted to give this Fox a mild brake upgrade as well with new performance pads and shoes, braided brake hoses, and stainless caliper guide sleeves. Check out the photos and see how we transformed this '88 GT convertible from stocker to rocker!  1 While we used our two-post...  1 While we used our two-post Direct Lift to perform the five-lug swap, this upgrade is very much a floor jack and jack-stands type of project that you can tackle in your garage or driveway. With the stock GT “turbine” wheels removed, we started with the front conversion. Remove the stock caliper and wire it up out of the way with a coat hanger or bungee cord. Since we’re adding new brake hoses, we completely removed the caliper and hose.  2 Just like a vintage Mustang,...  2 Just like a vintage Mustang, the Fox uses tapered wheel bearings with a retainer and cotter pin. After pulling the grease cap, cotter pin, retainer, and nut, the outer bearing easily slides out, followed by the stock four-lug rotor.  3 Another “while we’re at...  3 Another “while we’re at it” upgrade was a set of lowering springs. We figured we’ve got the brakes all apart, so it isn’t that much more work to throw in a set of springs, and with LRS’s budget lowering springs priced at just $99, it’s a no brainer.  4 We’ve covered spring swaps...  4 We’ve covered spring swaps in the past, so we won’t go into depth of the swap here, but to recap, support the control arm and unbolt the spindle from the strut. Then unbolt the sway bar end link and the tie rod end to gain access to the front spring.  5 The new lowering spring...  5 The new lowering spring pops into place much easier than the stock-length spring. There can be a little drama getting the old spring out, but seating the typical lowering spring is easy.  6 The new five-lug rotor...  6 The new five-lug rotor in LRS’s conversion kit comes with new bearings (races already installed) that you’ll have to pack with fresh grease. A new inner grease seal is included as well. You’ll be reusing your spindle washer, nut, and retainer. Be sure to use new cotter pins.  7 The five-lug kit works...  7 The five-lug kit works with stock calipers (or LRS’s 73mm upgrade calipers). Instead of just dropping them back on the spindle, we’re going to give the calipers a good cleaning, new pads, and stainless steel guide sleeves. First, the caliper pistons are seated and then the calipers are cleaned and flushed of old fluid.  8 The stainless caliper guide...  8 The stainless caliper guide sleeves replace the stock rubber sleeves (which are usually torn and worn out) and keep the caliper parallel to the rotor surface for better pad wear and less caliper deflection. Best of all, they simply slide into place after yanking out the old rubber sleeves.  9 The front brake pads were...  9 The front brake pads were fairly worn (and not worn evenly either, hence the caliper sleeve upgrade), so a fresh set of Hawk HPS performance pads were snapped into place to mate to our new rotors.  10 Stock brake hoses deteriorate...  10 Stock brake hoses deteriorate with time, depositing rubber particles in the brake fluid, and can internally collapse or leak. A fresh set of hoses seemed like the perfect add-on when doing all this brake work, but we went one better with a full set of stainless braided DOT hoses. The kit comes with new banjo bolts and sealing washers. Do not reuse the stock caliper bolts, as they will be too long and will interfere with the caliper’s pistons.  11 Our fully refurbed calipers...  11 Our fully refurbed calipers go back on with little fanfare. With the stainless caliper guide sleeves, the guide pins need to be clean for the caliper to move freely. We wire-wheeled the pins and gave them a coating of high-temperature anti-seize before installing.  12 The five-lug swap on the...  12 The five-lug swap on the front of our GT is complete, and not only do we have a huge selection of wheels to pick from now, but we have all-new brakes with some mild upgrades like pads, brake lines, and more. We can’t wait to see the GT back on the ground with the lowering springs. For now, it’s on to the rear to wrap things up.  13 Converting to five-lug...  13 Converting to five-lug axles means cracking the axle housing open. Remove the axle housing cover bolts except for one or two at the top, which are backed out just a few turns. The cover is then gently pried from the housing to allow the gear oil to drain, and then the cover is removed completely.  14 The differential’s cross...  14 The differential’s cross shaft will need to be removed to allow access to the axle shaft’s c-clip retainers. Remove the cross shaft retaining bolt from the right side of the differential housing with care, as they are prone to breakage.  15 Rotate the driveshaft...  15 Rotate the driveshaft until the differential cross shaft is in a position where it can be slid out of the differential housing as shown. Once the cross shaft is removed, DO NOT rotate the axle shafts or the driveshaft because the spider gears will also rotate and fall out of the differential.  16 Once the cross shaft has...  16 Once the cross shaft has been removed, the c-clips will be accessible. Push the axles inwards and grab the c-clips with a pair of needle-nose pliers or a small magnet.  17 With the c-clips out of...  17 With the c-clips out of the picture, the old four-lug axles are ready for removal. Grasp the axles by their flange and slide them out of the axle housing, being sure to support their weight to keep them off the axle seals.  18 Before introducing the...  18 Before introducing the new LRS five-lug conversion axles to our GT’s 8.8-inch rear, we felt it was only right to go through the rear brakes with fresh shoes and a hardware kit to mate to the new five-lug drums provided in the LRS swap kit. Once we had our brakes in order, it was simply a matter of slipping the new five-lug axles into place, capping them with the supplied brake drums, and then refilling the differential with the supplied friction modifier, though you’re on your own for your choice of gear oil.  19 LRS offers all of the...  19 LRS offers all of the popular late-model Mustang wheels, like Cobra, Bullitt, and other styles. And if you buy tires with your wheels, you’ll be happy to know they’ll come mounted and balanced, ready for you to simply bolt on. We chose Nitto NT555 performance tires for our GT’s five-lug swap.  20 Now, for the piece de...  20 Now, for the piece de resistance—our new 17-inch five-lug wheels from LRS. The owner chose the popular 10th anniversary Cobra-look, double six-spoke wheel with anthracite gray centers. These 17-inch wheels are considered a “plus two” fitment since they’re wrapped in P245/45R17 tires for the same overall diameter as the stock 15-inch wheels, so no speedometer issues will plague our GT.  21 After mounting the wheels...  21 After mounting the wheels and tires to our new five-lug brake setup, the GT was put back on terra firma so we could properly torque the new aluminum wheels to the suggested 75-85 ft-lb of torque. After 50 miles of driving, we’ll go around and re-torque the lug nuts again. Take note that you’ll need four extra lug nuts for this swap, or better yet pick up a full set of new lug nuts/wheel locks.  22a There’s nothing more...  22a There’s nothing more dramatic to drive the point home than some before and after photos...  22b ...The drop-top GT looked...  22b ...The drop-top GT looked aged with the factory 15-inch wheels in place, but with the LRS five-lug conversion kit and the new 17-inch “plus two” wheel package, not to mention the effect of the lowering springs, the Mustang looks fresh and modern and ready to hit the next show or cruise night in style. Dramatic what a simple wheel change can do, isn’t it?
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