As much as the commercials we see on television try to tell us, we can’t always get what we want. Sometimes you just have to settle for a little less than your original idea/want/desire due to time, budget, or other reasons. Sometimes it’s just too good of a deal to pass up, even though it’s not exactly what you wanted. Sure, we all want a new Mustang GT with glass roof and the Brembo brake package, or even better, a GT500 or Boss 302. Unfortunately, reality usually steps in and slaps us in the back of the head to wake us up back in the real world where we have a mortgage, kids in college, and a sour economy. So often that dream GT or Shelby becomes a nice little V-6 Mustang. Of course, today’s V-6 Mustang is no slouch with 305hp and we’d certainly be excited to have one in our own garage.
However, many of the V-6 Mustangs built have been the base package content and not the Premium or Pony packages, so if you’re looking for a nice V-6 driver you’ll often miss out on some of the nice upgrades found in these packages, like HID headlights, fog lights, rear wing, backup camera, navigation, and more. Some of these upgrades are just simply too difficult to integrate back into the base model Mustang. Take the Microsoft SYNC-based navigation and audio system. You’ll be miles ahead going with an aftermarket solution (you’ll get close, but it won’t be just like the SYNC system, no matter what the audio sales guy tells you). Other upgrades are simpler to integrate into the base V-6. Take the fog lights for instance. Everyone likes the look of the factory fog lights in the bottom of the fascia and they do a good job of throwing extra light down those dark side streets. Now you can easily add factory fog lights in an easy-to-install retrofit kit from Starkey Products right in your driveway in about an hour and a half with just a few basic hand tools. Check it out in the photos here and then give the folks at Latemodel Restoration Supply a call to order yours.
1. The stock fascia filler...
1. The stock fascia filler panels are held in place by lock tabs on the inboard side of the panel. Use a door panel tool or screwdriver (a shop rag will protect the paint) to pry the filler panel out from the inboard edge, as shown.
2. The front air diffuser...
2. The front air diffuser will need to be extricated in order to reach the fog light mounting area. We’ve placed our subject ’11 V-6 convertible on our two-post lift simply for better photos, but you can access the 7mm mounting screws with ease on the ground.
3. The fog light assemblies...
3. The fog light assemblies come ready to drop in with new bulbs. You’ll notice the fascia has two tabs across from each other that the fog light housing aligns with. Once you’ve slid the light housing over these tabs you can then secure the fog lights with the included mounting hardware.
4. The Starkey Products kit...
4. The Starkey Products kit includes new fog light filler panels that snap right into place for a perfect OE fit and look.
5. Now it’s on to the wiring....
5. Now it’s on to the wiring. For access for wire routing, the radiator cover between the core support and fascia will need to be removed. You’ll find these two-part panel retainers fairly easy to remove. Carefully pry up the center of the retainer first, then the main body of the retainer. The cover then simply lifts off.
6. Before going any further...
6. Before going any further with the wiring, be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable, as you’ll be working with the power distribution box (PDB) and its live 12-volt circuits.
7. The PDB has a 10mm nut...
7. The PDB has a 10mm nut that retains the main power feed cable. Remove this nut and add the orange power wire from the fog light harness to the stud. Secure the new wire with the original nut.
8. You’ll find two ground...
8. You’ll find two ground bolts at the passenger side of the core support (just forward of the PDB). Remove the ground bolt shown and add the ring terminal with the black ground wires from the fog light harness here.
9. The fog light kit includes...
9. The fog light kit includes a fuse tap (which actually comes preinstalled on a new fuse) that is installed in fuse location 39 in the PDB.
9a Once the fuse and tap...
9a Once the fuse and tap are installed, connect the red wire to the tap, as shown here. Route the red and orange wires neatly out of the PDB and replace the PDB’s cover. The two fuse holders and relays can be neatly stowed next to the PDB on the inner fender.
10. Route the fog light harness...
10. Route the fog light harness across the core support, tie wrapping it to the main light harness as seen here. Snake the fog light pigtails down behind the headlamps at the same time. You can plug the fog light connectors in now, or wait until you’re done with the rest of the wiring.
11. Once you’ve routed the...
11. Once you’ve routed the harness to the driver’s side of the engine compartment, all you’ll have left is the small harness with the red and blue wires in it. This is the section of harness that needs to go into the passenger compartment and the headlight switch. Remove the body plug found next to the brake booster and cut a 3/8-inch hole in the plug for the wiring to pass through and then feed the wiring into the car, securing the plug back in place.
12. Gently pry the lower...
12. Gently pry the lower dash panel out to release the retaining clip for it so you can access the screw or bolt holding the headlight switch. Early cars had a Phillips head screw, but this ’11 used a 7mm bolt.
13. With the bottom fastener...
13. With the bottom fastener removed, the headlight switch can be carefully pried out of the dash. You’ll be removing the complete trim section with dimmer and info center buttons. Disconnect the three wiring plugs to remove the switch assembly.
14. Working on the bench,...
14. Working on the bench, you’ll find three lock tabs that secure the headlight switch to the small trim panel. Carefully pry these inward and apply pressure on the switch to pop it out of the trim panel.
15. With the new headlight...
15. With the new headlight switch in place, it’s ready to be reinstalled in the car after we connect our final two wires (more on that in the next photo). Notice the new switch not only has the “pull for fog” icon as well as the fog light indicator lamp, but notice the little lamp icon with the “A” in it. Yep, with the installation of this switch, your Mustang’s factory automatic headlamp function becomes enabled.
16. The two wires that were...
16. The two wires that were passed into the passenger compartment are connected to the headlight switch wiring via the included T-taps and male spade terminals. You’ll need to cut back some of the harness tape to access the wiring needed. Reconnect the three wiring connections at the switch panel, and then reinstall the switch. Finally, check for proper fog light operation (only with the key on) and adjust the lamps if needed before reinstalling the under hood and under car trim panels.