Replace A Fox-Body Convertible Top

1 National Parts Depot has everything you need to replace a Fox-body convertible top, including fabric, pads, and rear window (known as the curtain). Hard parts are also available. If your pump and lines are worn out, NPD has them too.

2 Top removal begins with this external tacking strip that hides ugly staples. Bill Griggs noticed our convertible top backlite had been replaced and didn't have its original two-piece tacking strip, which is a strip within a strip. NPD provided us with the correct two-piece tacking strip.

3 Bill lowers the old top to relax the material for removal. Because the power mechanism was not working on our project car, the power cylinders had to be disconnected to manually lower the top.

4 All weatherstripping is removed first, beginning with the #1 header bow. Rubber is removed first, then the header bracket, which is retained with belly-button Phillips trim screws.

5 The header seal is removed from the #1 bow.

6 The rear seat must come out. It's secured with two sheetmetal screws at the bottom on each side. Lift the seat back up and out. Removing the seat bottom involves pushing the seat aft and pulling upward.

7 Once the header seal has been removed, the outer top cover is removed as shown. This outer cover is stapled, which involves a lot of grunt work. Be prepared for callused fingertips.

8 The top material is fastened to the #2 and #3 bows via rods, sheathes, and screws. Bill slices sheathes and doesn't sweat screws during removal.

9 The window channels (also known as quarter window fillers) are retained with two studs and nuts requiring a 13mm socket. The quarter windows must be rolled down for channel removal.

10 This is the #5 bow, which is also called the trim stick. All top material is stapled to this bow, which is secured as shown with several flange nuts and washers. Because this top has been apart before, there are missing parts that Bill will have to source from local salvage yards.

11 Bill removes the trim stick using a 13mm socket. This will release the entire top.

12 With the top and trim stick removed, you can see how the top anchors via a series of studs. Note the pounded down wheelhouse to clear convertible top.

13 Bill removes any remaining stay pad material, which runs down both sides to keep the bows properly positioned.

14 This is the right-hand top latch mechanism, which is available from NPD for '83-'93 Mustang convertibles. If your latch mechanism is working properly and secures the top, there's no need for replacement.

15 Installation begins with the initial measurement between the #5 bow and #4, which is 25-1/4 inches. Then Bill tacks a burlap strip to the #5 and #4 bows and pulls tight at 25-1/4 inches.

16 With all bows at the proper dimensions, Bill begins the stay pad installation with fabric first. The leading edge of the stay pad is temporarily pinned to keep it properly positioned.

17 The stay pad is sprayed with 3M Trim Adhesive and allowed to tack off. Once tacky, the material is rolled over the pad and stapled to the bows. This pad bolsters top aesthetics and deadens slipstream noise.

18 The rear curtain arrives with reference marks for two potential installations, depending upon model year. For our '83-'90 installation, we're working with Code #2355, which calls for using the upper line as a reference mark. Bill marks the curtain's dead center and will align the upper line with the top of our trim stick (#5 bow) for stapling.

19 The rear curtain is stapled to the trim stick as shown. Note that the white reference line on our #2355 curtain is aligned with the top of the trim stick. Material will be cut from around the trim stick stud holes for installation.

20 Here, the rear curtain assembly has been installed and is ready for fastening.

21 This is the trim stick (#5 bow), which is secured to the body via these studs.

22 Bill has run the top completely up and locked the #1 bow. The curtain is pulled as tight as possible and temporarily stapled at the #4 bow for a dimension check.

23 Bill checks seam to trim stick dimensions at thee points--left, center, and right. It should be six-inches each. Once dimensions are confirmed, Bill permanently staples the curtain to the #4 bow.

24 The sail panel pad gets a splash of 3M trim adhesive. Then, the material is rolled over and stapled to create sail pads, which are then permanently stapled.

25 Bill lays down the most aesthetic part of our top, which is what everyone sees when it is finished. We've learned the toughest part of top installation is the support system you don't see, which affects what you do see.

26 The top is stapled to the sail pads and trim sticks in each corner. We're using the top reference line per NPD instructions.

27 Side tension cables give convertible tops their stiffness. They run through each side of the top and can be fished through with a looped coat hanger wire. There are two types of side tension cables for '83-'93 Mustangs. We're using the M-52806-1C cables, 35-1/2-inches long for '89-'90 Mustang only. If you have an '83-'88 or '91-'93, you want the M-52806-1B cable at 34-1/2-inches long.

28 The top cover is secured to the #4 bow first, then via the tack strip with dozens of staples. Next, Bill trims to size and installs the bullet-shaped ends.

29 Window channels go in next and are secured via studs and flange nuts.

30 Weatherstrip retaining brackets are secured with sheetmetal belly button screws.

31 Header strips are installed next using trim adhesive and a trim installation spoon.

32 Header seal installation begins with trim adhesive and tack off. Bill allows the trim adhesive to get tacky, then rolls the top's leading edge over to secure before stapling into place.

33 The top header seal is tucked into place as shown. Bill uses trim adhesive, allows it to become tacky, then installs the header seal, which is tucked into place with a trim spoon.