Classic Mustang dashpads have always suffered from fading, warping, and splitting over time, especially when exposed to the sun. Thankfully, there are affordable reproductions available from California Mustang that you can install yourself in a couple of hours. Knee and windshield pillar pads were also employed on all '67 and early '68 Mustangs, so we're also going to show you how to replace them while you're at it in order to get a uniform match. A UAW strike in the fall of 1967 shut down all Ford assembly plants for nearly three months, a financially devastating situation for Ford that led to cost-cutting production changes, including the deletion of the dashboard knee crash pad and windshield pillar pads toward the end of the '68 model year.

1 Dashpad replacement begins...

1 Dashpad replacement begins with instrument cluster and glovebox insert removal. To gain cluster access, remove the heater control bezel for easy reach-around to the speedometer cable and multiplex plugs. The '67 cluster has six Phillips head screws. For '68, just five screws. The glovebox insert has four button-head Phillips screws.

2 With all screws removed...

2 With all screws removed and the cluster disconnected, Colette Grupp gently removes the cluster. Expect the cluster to hang up on the left-hand side. Lift up on the left side and pull out to get it free.

3 The dashpad is retained...

3 The dashpad is retained with color-keyed trim strips at the windshield base and one stud at each end. A #2 Phillips screwdriver removes the trim screws. From behind the dashboard, a 3/8-inch deep-well socket removes stud nuts at each end next to the glove compartment and heater control. At that point, the pad pulls straight out.

4 California Mustang is a...

4 California Mustang is a class act with nice reproductions. We're going with blue vinyl in this Brittany Blue '67 hardtop.

5 Using the original dashpad...

5 Using the original dashpad as a template, Colette punches the screw holes with a leather hole punch. If you don't have one, use a razor blade to cut screw slots per the original pad. The corners may need to be trimmed so they won't bunch up.

6 The new reproduction dashpad...

6 The new reproduction dashpad is positioned and checked for proper fit. The studs are seated carefully at each end and secured loosely before being tightened. Make adjustments before tightening the studs.

7 It's a good idea to use...

7 It's a good idea to use an awl to locate the screw holes before installing the screws. The dashpad will have to be worked up and down and from side to side in order to find the screw holes. Be prepared to remove the dashpad and punch new holes because factory dashpads are hit and miss fit-wise. Expect corners to be difficult.

8 At each end, the studs...

8 At each end, the studs are secured to the dashboard at the glove compartment and heater control void.

9 Here's where factory stamping...

9 Here's where factory stamping variations will drive you crazy. Although our dashpad fits nicely, variations in Colette's steel dashboard stamping gave us fascia clearance problems. The top middle plastic anchor pin had to be ground flush. When Colette removed this piece, there were only four tinnerman's nuts installed across the bottom, indicating a fitment problem when this car was assembled in January 1967.

10 The knee crash pad is...

10 The knee crash pad is next with a series of studs, nuts, and a 3/8-inch socket. It's an easy fit coupled with outstanding quality.

11 The spring clip slots...

11 The spring clip slots must be cut into the pillar pads. Begin with a razor blade, then use a screwdriver to remove foam. Take your time and do this in small steps.

12 After lining up the clips,...

12 After lining up the clips, a solid whack pops them into place. To help with the installation, Colette applied white grease to the tips of the clips.

13 The dashpad trim screws...

13 The dashpad trim screws are tightened at this time. Do not overtighten.

14 Instrument cluster screw...

14 Instrument cluster screw holes and nut plates aren't always going to line up. Use an awl to ascertain plate location. Finally, reinstall the instrument cluster and glove compartment insert.