Mustang Monthly

1966 Mustang Project: '65 - '66 Vent-Window Frame Restoration

Now using a makeshift swedging tool with the curve of a box-end wrench, Rego carefully swedges the rivet heads with a punch to retain the division bar seal.	Moving on to the new vent frame, the vent-window seal is pressed into place. The seal utilizes spring steel teeth in several places to grip the vent-window frame.	We found that a small amount of weatherstrip adhesive was necessary in a few areas to secure the seal. Check yours for fit and add adhesive as needed.You can tape the seal into place and let it cure overnight if need be.
While we're sure there is a special tool or rivet gun extension out there somewhere, we had to come up with a way to use a standard rivet gun to rivet the division bar back onto the new vent frame. We finally came up with this trick: a small-diameter washer to push against the rivet head, topped off by a small nut to act as a spacer to keep the rivet gun body from damaging the division bar. It worked like a charm.	When installing a new vent-top seal, the special retaining rivet has to be carefully installed. There is a tool available for this from many vendors for approximately $70 (or you could borrow or rent one), but we were able to get the rivet compressed successfully with regular handtools.	Before reinstalling our vent-window glass, we cleaned up the stainless trim and painted the upper pivot with Testors Bright Silver. While this upper pivot was originally chrome, it's by far more economical to simply touch it up like this.
Our polished vent-glass assembly is now carefully slipped into the new vent-window frame past the new vent seal until the upper pivot is lined up with its receiving hole, then it's allowed to slide into place.	Reassemble the vent-glass pivot bracket and the bushings in their proper order. Reinstall the spring and retaining nut as well to secure the glass.	Installing the original or new front-glass run requires some finesse and a bit of luck. Begin by sliding the run into place, lining up the retaining hole at the top for the one screw.
Then, while holding the run in place, snap it into the division bar with a few blows of a rubber mallet. If you're installing the original run, you might be able to use your bare hand.	Shown here is our original driver- side vent-window frame next to our completely restored passenger-side vent-window frame. Wow, what a difference the shiny new chrome and fresh rubber makes.	When it comes time to put your vent-window frames back in your Mustang, take your time and be cognizant of the frame as it passes into the door shell. Before installing the frames, tap all threaded holes and chase your original adjusters with a thread die to make adjustments easy.

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Project '66 - Restoring a 1966 Ford Mustang

We take a glimpse inside the how, what, why, and where of restoring a vintage Mustang

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1966 Mustang Project: '65 - '66 Vent-Window Frame Restoration

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