Mustang Monthly

Torque Boxes for a 1965-1966 Ford Mustang Hardtop

7 After the toe and floorboards are removed, we have a gaping hole in the floor. Gaydos uses some weld-through primer to make sure that the rust gremlins stay away after the piece is installed.	8 Gaydos dry-fits both the toe board and the torque box. This is crucial. Always measure twice and cut once. Dry-fitting the parts will assure you of a good fit and clean install. After this, Gaydos cut the holes in the box to reproduce a more factory-looking job.	9 As he fits in the pieces, Gaydos uses locking pliers to secure them. On the final fit, these will stay in place. At this time, we recommend that you brush on some POR-15 to keep away the rust for good.
10 Welding is the final step after you have determined that all the parts are correctly positioned. Remember that if you make a mistake after the welds are completed, it is more difficult to go back and redo them.	11 Once the torque box is in position, Gaydos sets the toe board in place and does one final check to make sure everything is in place. At that point, he begins to weld the board into position.	12 The toe board is placed in before the floorpan. Once again, Gaydos drills holes in the toe board and welds the panel to them. Since the toe board has no external lip as do the torque boxes, Gaydos uses locking C-clamps to fasten it to the floor to ensure a good, tight fit.
13 Gaydos will now butt-weld the pans in place.	14 Now we have all the modern conveniences of torque boxes and a better-handling hardtop, thanks to their chassis stiffening. Too cool.

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Project '66 - Restoring a 1966 Ford Mustang

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Torque Boxes for a 1965-1966 Ford Mustang Hardtop

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