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1966 Ford Mustang - Project '66 - V8 Conversion - '65-'66 Six to V-8 Front Suspension UpgradeOur '66 hardtop goes uptown with a fresh V-8-specific front suspension From the July, 2000 issue of Mustang Monthly By Mark Houlahan Photography by Mark Houlahan
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Our Magna suspension from... Our Magna suspension from Mustangs Plus features MP's 620 coil springs, full upper control arms, lower control arms, 1-inch front sway bar, urethane strut bushings, and MagnaGas shocks, all with a lifetime guarantee. Part of any restoration project is replacing worn or unsafe steering and suspension components to ensure a safe, comfortable ride. Either you can go back with stock parts and rubber bushings (if you like your 35-year-old Mustang to feel like a 35-year-old Mustang) or you can upgrade to any of the numerous levels of aftermarket performance suspension kits out there for the vintage Mustangs. The choices run from improved bushing designs to full-on tubular adjustable upper and lower control arms with coilover shock conversions. That's just the bolt-in variety too. If you really want outrageous, then you can weld in a Mustang II-style system with rack-and-pinion steering, but that's more for all-out restomods and engine conversion groupies. To throw another wrench in the works, we've decided to convert our hardtop to a full and correct (as correct as we can get) V-8 running gear, which will require some extra thought. While items such as springs and tie-rod ends can be easily converted by simply making the correct choices in the parts catalog, other used items such as steering stops, spindles, and power steering centerlinks are all hard to come by. For our new suspension pieces, we went with the great line of Magna suspension hard parts from Mustangs Plus. These lifetime-warranted parts look OE-correct but are improved in several areas. Most noticeable are the upgrades to urethane bushings and, in most cases, stronger materials. While we were speaking to the suspension pros at Mustangs Plus, they went through several questions to determine what we wanted to do with our hardtop, and what we were expecting from the car's handling. We eventually settled for the Magna 620-pound-rate coil springs-and surrounded them with Magna upper and lower control arms, cad-plated and urethane-bushed spring perches, a 1-inch front sway bar, and MagnaGas shocks. Talk to the experts before you order your suspension pieces and you'll be happy. Though we're saving the rear suspension for another article, we opted for Magna mid-eye 411/42 -leaf rear springs, MagnaGas rear shocks, and a shackle kit with urethane bushings. The entire suspension package should lower the hardtop about 1 inch all around. It's nothing drastic to the eye, but handling will be vastly improved. With our suspension practically dialed in, we needed to score the remaining items to make our V-8 conversion correct and, more importantly, safe to drive. The V-8 spindles aren't impossible to find, but instead of searching countless salvage yards, we went right to the vintage Mustang used parts masters-Metro Mustang. The able-bodied staff of Metro Mustang sent us the requisite V-8 spindles with drum brakes needed for the swap, and even fulfilled our request for the elusive V-8 with power steering-specific turn stops. Other items the folks at Metro can find in their inventory or on their numerous parts cars include power steering, suspension, and engine components. Why drum brakes you ask? We think that a power-drum setup is a nicer street-braking system than manual discs, but who's not to say that we might upgrade from this to power disc later. It is-after all-a project car, you know.  1 Due to lack of shop space,...  1 Due to lack of shop space, we had the '66 stored at my house when we had to complete the suspension replacement. Thus we were limited to basic handtools, no compressor, and no lift, among other things. We thought it might be interesting to keep a time log of the project. Here sits the old suspension (with fender removed for photography) ready to go on a Monday at 7 p.m.  2 We will be replacing the...  2 We will be replacing the steering components at a later date, but we still needed to separate the outer tie-rod end from the spindle. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut several turns.  3 With the castle nut loosened,...  3 With the castle nut loosened, hit the eye of the spindle with a ball-peen hammer to separate the tie-rod end from the spindle. Fully remove the nut and pivot the tie rod out of the way.  3 With the castle nut loosened,...  3 With the castle nut loosened, hit the eye of the spindle with a ball-peen hammer to separate the tie-rod end from the spindle. Fully remove the nut and pivot the tie rod out of the way.  5 We decided to take some...  5 We decided to take some pressure off the spring before removing the shock. Depending upon the type of spring compressor you use, you may not have to remove the shock absorber first. We were using an external-type compressor (shown here ready to begin compressing the spring). MP also carries the internal-style spring-compressor tool.  6 Removing the old shocks...  6 Removing the old shocks shouldn't give you much trouble, but ours were trouble with a capital T. The bottom mounting studs of the shocks were stripped, causing the nut to just spin. The top mounting was secured with a nut inside the shock mounting cap, requiring the use of a second socket to hold the nut while removing the retaining bolts on top.  7 With the old shock out...  7 With the old shock out of the way, the spring can be further compressed until the spring is free of the spring perch and can be pulled away. Carefully release the spring on the ground.  8 Monday at 9 p.m. The kids...  8 Monday at 9 p.m. The kids were in bed and my wife said "no more loud noises in the garage." Time to close up shop with just the spring and shock removed. This could take awhile.  9 Continuing on Tuesday night,...  9 Continuing on Tuesday night, I got started earlier-around 6:30. I wanted to get the remainder of the old suspension off tonight. Remove the upper and lower ball joint cotter pins and loosen the 71/48-inch castle nuts several turns, but do not remove them.  10 As with the tie-rod end,...  10 As with the tie-rod end, a hammer is called into play to separate the upper and lower ball joints from the spindle. A pickle fork could be used as well since we aren't saving any of the components.  11 The complete upper control...  11 The complete upper control arm is removed once the ball joint is free of the spindle. Carefully remove the alignment shims, and keep them indexed for reinstallation. You will still need an alignment when you're finished, but the old shims will get you in the ballpark.  12 With the upper control...  12 With the upper control arm out of the way, the spindle and brake assembly can be removed from the lower control arm. We set aside the six-cylinder parts since we aren't reusing them, and we simply cut the old brake hoses for quick removal.  13 The strut rod retaining...  13 The strut rod retaining hardware can be a bear if your Mustang is/was a northern car. We soaked our strut rod retaining nuts in penetrating oil the night before, and it paid off with easy removal.  14 The strut rod is then...  14 The strut rod is then removed from the lower control arm. The '65-'66 strut rods have the steering stops as separate pieces (arrow), whereas the '67-and-later have the steering stop as an integral part of the rod. Notice too that we've removed the sway bar endlink.  15 A pivot bolt in the engine...  15 A pivot bolt in the engine stand/frame brace retains the lower control arm. To remove the bolt, however, you may have to unbolt the No. 2 crossmember to allow clearance for removal of the pivot bolt.  16 The stock six-cylinder...  16 The stock six-cylinder sway bar is unbolted from the framerail and tossed into the pile of old parts in favor of the V-8-friendly Magna 1-inch front sway bar.  17 With all the old six-cylinder...  17 With all the old six-cylinder suspension removed, the inner fender panels needed some attention. The 35-year-old undercoating was scraped off, and fresh paint and undercoating was applied. By 10:30 p.m., we called it a night.  18 On Wednesday we got started...  18 On Wednesday we got started around 7 p.m. Going into our third night of working on the Mustang, my wife was beginning to have doubts about my "fun" idea of working on the car here instead of at the Emap Petersen Active shop. In the background, the Magna lower control arm is already bolted into place. The strut rod is bead-blasted, painted, and ready to accept the urethane bushings, shown here with antisqueak grease applied. MP suggests turning around the washers on the strut rod when using urethane bushings.  19 The V-8 with power steering-specific...  19 The V-8 with power steering-specific steering stops was found through Metro Mustang. Metro specializes in good used and new old stock parts, and always has plenty of suspension parts in stock. The strut rod and steering stop is bolted to the lower control arm.  20 To properly and safely...  20 To properly and safely complete a V-8 suspension conversion, you will need the larger 10-inch drum brakes with a five-lug bolt pattern. We found perfectly good spindles with the drum brakes still intact at Metro Mustang as well.  21 Both the five-lug V-8...  21 Both the five-lug V-8 spindle and drum assemblies will need complete brake overhauls down the road, but we just wanted to get them on the car for now. I tried to get the family involved in the restoration act, as seen here by my son, Kyle, helping me clean and paint the spindles with Eastwood Chassis Black. (This is a staged shot, he wore a mask to paint.)  22 Once the spindle was dry,...  22 Once the spindle was dry, we mounted it on the lower control arm ball joint. Just snug the castle nut for now. The upper control arm is installed with the original shims. The Magna control arms come with grease fittings already in place (including the 90-degree fittings for the cross-shaft), and can be greased after they are installed.  23 With the upper control...  23 With the upper control arm in place, the spindle can be brought into line and secured to the upper control arm ball joint. At this time, you can tighten the ball joint castle nuts and install the cotter pins. Make sure the pins are securely bent back to prevent backing out.  24 The new Magna 1-inch front...  24 The new Magna 1-inch front sway bar looks positively massive compared to the old six-cylinder piece. With new reinforced, cadium-plated mounting brackets and endlinks, installing the bar is simple. For those who want handling in a stock-looking package, the Magna parts can be easily painted with correct detailing paints and paint markings.  25 The MagnaGas shocks are...  25 The MagnaGas shocks are installed next. The shocks come with lower mounting hardware but not the upper. If your upper hardware is damaged, then you will need to buy new bolts. Notice we're using the Magna "poly perch" cad-plated with urethane bushings versus the OE-style black painted steel with rubber bushings. This will offer a better, more controlled ride.  26 Wednesday at 11 p.m. our...  26 Wednesday at 11 p.m. our left-side suspension was completed. Our new V-8-ready suspension, spindles, and brakes were in place. All we had left to do was install the spring cover, fender, and a spare five-lug wheel to get our Mustang back on the ground.  27 Our shock mounting caps...  27 Our shock mounting caps had been brazed to the inner fenders due to failed and missing hardware. New mounting caps and hardware were obtained from Mustangs Plus, along with our suspension and steering pieces.  28 Styled Steel Wheels will...  28 Styled Steel Wheels will be used on our '66 when it's completed, but for now we borrowed some five-lug shop wheels to transport our Mustang around for final bodywork and paint. There would be nothing worse than getting paint overspray on our brand-new Styled Steels!  29 Coming up in the next...  29 Coming up in the next few months, we will also tackle converting our rear suspension and driveline to V-8-capable parts. We already have the Magna leaf springs, shocks, shackles, and bushings from Mustangs Plus, and we will soon be taking delivery of a Currie Enterprises 8-inch differential. Stay tuned for that segment as well as our power steering conversion article.
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 | We take a glimpse inside the how, what, why, and where of restoring a vintage Mustang |
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