Many first-time Mustang owners know that something isn't "right" with their automatic floor shifter, but think it must require a major repair to get it fixed-so instead, they just live with the problem. That's how I felt back in 1985 when I bought my first Mustang, and the shifter wobbled back and forth so bad that I figured the entire assembly was trashed. Later, after spending money on parts and labor, I found out that the shifter slop was because two silly, little plastic bushings had worn away. After removing the long console in my car and the four bolts that held the shifter body to the floor, I realized that I could have fixed it myself for a few bucks' worth of bushings.
Our Project '66-having just returned from the MCA Grand National where its week-old paint job was on display-is now getting ready for the rest of our complete Deluxe interior restoration and conversion. As we gathered original parts off the shelf to return to the interior, we realized that our original shifter assembly needed some bushings and TLC. It may be 15 years later, but I'm saving myself the labor this time around.
Besides new bushings, we decided to rebuild and freshen the complete shifter assembly with new chrome, a T-handle, a shifter plate, and more from Texas Mustang Parts. Eventually, our '66 hardtop will be wearing a factory short console (the lines of a long console are timeless, but you have to have A/C in Florida!), thus we are also installing the correct console shift-selector plate at this time as well. Depending upon whether or not you have a console, this job shouldn't take more than an hour and requires only a couple of basic sockets.
Our freshened shifter assembly...
Our freshened shifter assembly is ready for many more miles of service in our Project '66.
1 While you can accomplish...
1 While you can accomplish the bushing replacement without removing the shifter assembly from your Mustang, our shifter was already removed during the restoration process. Remove the side access plug to the shifter housing, then remove the 91/416-inch nut retaining the upper shifter lever to the lower shifter lever.
2 Separate the shifter levers,...
2 Separate the shifter levers, and remove the upper chrome shifter lever from the shifter housing. You might have to pry the two levers apart with a screwdriver, because they are a press fit when assembled.
3 Now slide the lower shifter...
3 Now slide the lower shifter lever out the side of the shifter housing. We also removed any remnants of the old shifter bushings from the opening. Gather up all items that will be reused for cleaning and painting.
4 After bead-blasting the...
4 After bead-blasting the shifter housing, the lower shifter lever, the shift linkage adjustment bolt, and the housing mounting bolts, these items were refinished with The Eastwood Company's Spray Gray for a natural look.
5 Using a heavy-duty grease,...
5 Using a heavy-duty grease, such as wheel bearing or engine assembly grease, liberally apply the grease to the area where the bushings will sit.
6 Place the new shifter lever...
6 Place the new shifter lever bushings into the housing by gently squeezing them to compress their diameter. One will be installed from the outside of the housing (shown here), and the other will be installed from the inside of the housing.
7 Using a layer of grease...
7 Using a layer of grease on the lower shift lever, slide the shift lever into place, making sure you don't push the inner bushing out of the housing in the process.
8 Place the upper shift lever...
8 Place the upper shift lever (in this case, a reproduction lever from Texas Mustang as the original was severely pitted) over the lower lever, and carefully align the two pieces.
9 Reinstall the retaining...
9 Reinstall the retaining nut for the shift levers, and securely tighten it. Make sure the alignment of the two levers does not change while you tighten the nut. Otherwise, the levers will not seat properly, and you may damage them.
10 Temporarily install the...
10 Temporarily install the T-handle to the shifter lever and test for proper operation of the shifter gate and pawl. Since our upper lever was new, it needed a minor adjustment at the locknut (arrow). Most original shifter levers will not need an adjustment. Also, if your shifter pawl cable is frayed or already broken, the cable can be purchased separately as well.
11 Now that the shifter lever...
11 Now that the shifter lever installation and adjustment are complete, you can reinstall your shifter housing plug.
12 Our '66 hardtop originally...
12 Our '66 hardtop originally had a long console in it, as evidenced by the console installation mounting screw holes. At some point throughout the years, the console was removed and a standard shifter housing was installed. Whoever did the installation decided to forego the correct mounting bracket. Instead, they simply ran longer tapping screws directly into the shifter housing, all the way through to the transmission tunnel. The bracket shown here is the correct piece for a nonconsole car.
13 Our original shift indicator...
13 Our original shift indicator lamp assembly was in good shape, except for the ground lead having been pulled free of the lamp body. We carefully cut open the molded end with an X-Acto blade and soldered the ground lead back on. Then we placed the molded end back over the wire and used some Super Glue to seal it shut.
14 A new bulb is installed...
14 A new bulb is installed into our indicator lamp assembly and tested with a 12-volt power source. Installing the light is simply a matter of gently squeezing the retaining fingers and snapping the lamp onto the shifter lever.
15 When we install the rebuilt...
15 When we install the rebuilt shifter into our '66 hardtop, we remember that the shifter retaining bolts were in poor condition: two were stripped and two were broken off-with the latter being a common problem. A 11/44-20 tap made quick work of the two bolt holes that needed to be repaired.
16 For the two bolt holes...
16 For the two bolt holes with broken bolts, we decide to forego any type of extraction and simply drill them out. Once the bolts are completely drilled out, we use the same 11/44-20 tap to make new threads.
17 Throughout the years,...
17 Throughout the years, as these old Mustangs of ours are taken apart time and time again, certain items end up in the trash can or are destroyed. The shifter housing seal is one of these items. Usually missing from previous shifter rebuilds, floorpan work, or carpet replacement, these seals keep out dirt and noise from the passenger compartment. Make sure you use one of these when reinstalling your shifter housing.
18 Our shifter housing is...
18 Our shifter housing is now installed back into our '66 hardtop using new mounting hardware. Notice that we have the correct console shift-selector plate installed onto our shifter now as well.
19 The special adjustment...
19 The special adjustment bolt shown here is a hard-to-find item if yours is missing or worn out. Ours was in decent condition and only needed new bushings.
20 The shift arm received...
20 The shift arm received years of abuse from loose bushings-wearing out both ends. A new shift arm was obtained from Texas Mustang Parts as well.