Though our '66 Mustang hardtop project has been painted for almost two months in real life, in "magazine life," we're still working on the bodywork. Previously, we've featured articles on floorpans (with the addition of torque boxes), rear framerails (with trunk floors), radiator core support, and fender apron replacement. This month we'll head toward third base with our sheetmetal repairs by replacing the rear quarter-panels and outer wheelhouses. After this, the only repairs left for our '66 are replacing the taillight panel and repairing the rusty cowl vents, which will be featured in upcoming articles. Then we will follow through with preparing the car for painting and showing you how you can paint your own car.
Before we replaced the quarter-panels, we discussed our options with Merv and Pat Rego of Classic Creations of Central Florida. Classic Creations has been ably handling our '66 up 'til now. Since our quarters were poorly patched when we bought the car, our only option was a full replacement. We're not saying that using patches is bad-they can be quite cost-effective for small rust problems-but the poor installation by the previous owner and the overall condition of the remaining quarter dictated that we replace the complete quarter surface.
Here is our '66 hardtop sitting in the Classic Creations shop after a long day of welding. Our cowl and taillight panel will be completed soon, then we will start preparing our hardtop so that it can receive several coats of PPG paint that was mixed for us in Anniversary Gold. | 
1 In order to correctly set the new quarters, we started with a proper door-to-quarter-panel gap. Since our hinges were shot, and we already had new doors from The Paddock, the door shells were hung with new KS Reproduction hinges. | 
2 Using the factory quarter as a guide, the new door was adjusted for a proper door gap before any metal was removed. This allowed us to use the door as a "gauge" for fitting the new quarter to the car. This operation is the same for a skin or a full quarter. |
3 We also had KS Reproduction send us a new decklid, since ours was full of rust pinholes and had received poor repair work. Installing and adjusting the decklid allows us to use the edge of the decklid as a "gauge" for the top of the quarter when installing a full quarter-panel. | 
4 While some shops cut around the factory lead seam, it's best to remove the old lead and install the quarter as the factory did when installing a full quarter. Heat the lead with a torch, then brush it out of the seam with a stiff wire brush. Make sure you properly dispose of the lead. | 
5 Using a wire wheel, clean the spot welds found underneath the lead-as well as the spot welds found elsewhere on the quarter-panel-until you can see them clearly to drill them out. |
6 Using a sharp drill bit to make quick work of the numerous spot welds, drill through the spot welds that retain the quarter-panel along the weld seam, the door striker face, the trunk lip, and the taillight panel. | 
7 Attempting to remove the quarter-panel as one large piece is unnecessary and quite trying. It's better to cut the quarter into sections, then remove the large sections first-as we are doing here. | 
8 Once the main quarter-panel has been cut away, you can use a pair of locking pliers to remove the small strips of metal found at the spot welds. |
9 The outer wheelhouses were Swiss cheese after almost three decades of northern winters. Replacing the outer wheelhouse and adding a small patch to the inner wheelhouse was necessary. Don't weld in the wheelhouse yet-simply clamp it in place, since you will need the quarter-panel to properly align the wheelhouse. | 
10 Take a good look at an original hardtop, and you will undoubtedly see stress cracks at the roof where it meets the quarter- panel. Classic Creations reinforces this area on the back of the quarter by welding a tab directly behind the high-stress area to help prevent "tearing" of the metal due to stress. With the addition of torque boxes, we no longer have to worry about this problem. | 
11 The full quarter is carefully slid under the roof skin and checked for the trial fit. Installing a full quarter is a wise choice, if you have major rust in the trunk lip area or if the taillight panel is going to be replaced as well. |
12 On reproduction metal it's common to find sharp edges or a lip that needs to be tweaked into place. Quite frankly, all metal needs to be fitted to the actual car it will be installed on, so don't be surprised if the metal you're installing needs some "help" to fit correctly. A block of wood is a safe tool to help get your panel to fit correctly. | 
13 Once the full quarter has been properly positioned at the front and your door gap looks good, the first MIG weld can be made at the very bottom of the quarter-where it meets the rocker. To start, all you need is a tack to hold it in place. | 
14 Using the correct tool for the job is never more important than when working with metal. After lining up the decklid to the quarter gap and tacking the quarter in place, we used this spoon and a hammer to rework the edge of the quarter for a proper gap to the decklid-something you wouldn't have to do with a quarter skin installation. |