So with the idea of patches out of the way, we were left with only two choices: a quarter-skin or a full quarter-panel. The differences between the two are not major. The skin is literally the outer skin of the quarter (there is no taillight panel end or trunk lip). The full quarter is identical to the original quarter installed by Ford, including a trunk lip, a front weld lip, and the lead-seam channel at the roof. After some thought, we called KS Reproductions for one of each. We decided to install a skin on one side and a full quarter on the other side, so that you could see the installation differences and the good and bad points on both types of quarter repairs.
 15 A third layer of sheetmetal...  15 A third layer of sheetmetal is behind the new quarter. Make sure you weld to it for proper strength. In order to reach this third layer of metal, use your drill bit to drill through the new quarter. Drill just enough to reach the layer of metal underneath it (without drilling through), then MIG-weld all three layers together. |  16 The very bottom of the...  16 The very bottom of the quarter-panel at the rear of the car is left loose until we install our taillight panel and rear valance (to create a better fit). Finish your fresh welds by grinding them. Remember, you want to clean them with the grinder, not totally remove them. |  17 To re-create the factory...  17 To re-create the factory lead seam, we used The Eastwood Company's Basic Body Solder kit (PN 31068). The kit features everything you need-including an instructional video-for small jobs, such as this quarter-panel seam. Eastwood has larger solder kits, and you can buy additional bars of body solder as well. Make sure the area you will be soldering is completely clean. Apply the tinning butter to the area with one of the included acid brushes. |
 18 The tinning butter is...  18 The tinning butter is then heated with a portable torch and wiped into the metal with a clean rag. This prepares the metal to receive the body solder. |  19 The body solder is placed...  19 The body solder is placed up against the seam area and heated just enough to allow the solder bars to stick to the body and fill the seam. If you overheat the solder, it will run. To start, simply fill the seam. |  20 Next, the lead is shaped...  20 Next, the lead is shaped to fit the seam, using the tallow and the flat paddle that is included in the kit. The tallow is heated until it melts the top surface layer, then the paddle is quickly dipped into it, giving the paddle a coating of the tallow-which prevents sticking. |
 21 The lead is gently heated...  21 The lead is gently heated again and shaped with the paddle. This process is repeated from the front of the seam to the rear. |  22 Once the lead has been...  22 Once the lead has been shaped and allowed to cool, the English file-included in the kit-is used to knock down the solder to more closely match the factory contours of the roof line. |  23 Once the major blocking...  23 Once the major blocking has been accomplished with the English file, regular body working techniques can be used to finish the solder and prepare it for priming and painting. Don't forget to properly dispose of any scrap solder. |
 24 Don't forget the window...  24 Don't forget the window opening and rear deck panel seams. The solder needs to be shaped and sanded in these areas as well to re-create the original look of the seams. |  25 Our completed full quarter-panel...  25 Our completed full quarter-panel is now ready for paint. Though we shot some PPG DP-90 black primer on the panel for now, we will use PPG DP-40 gray primer (which we didn't have at the time) when we finish our hardtop in Anniversary Gold. |  26 Now we will move on to...  26 Now we will move on to the driver side, where we will install a quarter skin-which differs in installation procedures from the full quarter-panel. Begin by cutting away the major skin, leaving about an inch all around from the upper contour line. Although not shown here, the driver's door has been hung and adjusted already. |
 27 When you're finished,...  27 When you're finished, your quarter should look similar to the one shown here. We needed an outer wheelhouse and some patches on this side as well. |  28 Our new outer wheelhouse...  28 Our new outer wheelhouse is clamped into place and awaits the quarter skin for final placement. |  29 The new quarter skin is...  29 The new quarter skin is clamped into place for a trial fit. Everything looks good and the quarter skin and wheelhouse are given final adjustments before welding starts. |