13 The new wheel cylinders...
13 The new wheel cylinders from National Parts Depot come in bare steel. We simply gave them a coat of clear to provide some protection. The wheel cylinder is bolted to the backing plate with the two original bolts. Make sure you have the brake hose opening toward the back of the car to receive the new brake hose as shown here.
14 Secure the new brake shoes...
14 Secure the new brake shoes to the backing plate, using the new hold-down hardware found in the hardware kit. The primary shoe (the shoe with the shorter lining glued or riveted on it) will go toward the front of the car on a duo-servo-style brake system, such as this. Don't forget to install the actuating pins into the ends of the wheel cylinder during shoe installation with a dab of grease on their ends.
15 The brake adjuster includes...
15 The brake adjuster includes this small bearing washer under the pivot cap.
16 Use a small amount of...
16 Use a small amount of bearing grease to lubricate the bearing as well as the threads of the adjuster, then place the adjuster in position between the two shoes.
17 The self-adjuster cable...
17 The self-adjuster cable is installed over the anchor pin before any of the shoe retracting springs. Ford calls for the cable crimp to face away from the backing plate, then the primary shoe spring, then the secondary shoe spring on 9- and 10-inch brake assemblies (and the opposite for 11-inch assemblies). Simply lay the cable over the brake shoe for now.
18 Using the opposite end...
18 Using the opposite end of the retracting spring tool, pass the tool through the hooked end of the return spring, then hook the tool onto the anchor pin.
19 Using slow, steady force,...
19 Using slow, steady force, pull the tool up and back-causing the spring to slide down the length of the tool and onto the anchor pin.
20 Repeat the procedure for...
20 Repeat the procedure for the secondary shoe spring, ensuring that the cable guide is installed under the spring. Install the rest of the self-adjuster parts as well. Your brakes should now look like the example shown here. You should take only one side apart while you do this work. That way, you can refer to the opposite side's mirror image as a guide.
21 The brake shoes are adjusted...
21 The brake shoes are adjusted out until the new drum fits with very minimal drag (really just a "brushing" of the shoes by the drum). The outer bearing, the washer, and the adjusting nut are installed now as well.
22 While slowly rotating...
22 While slowly rotating the drum assembly, the adjusting nut is tightened to 17-25 lb-ft to seat the wheel bearings and to center the assembly. The nut is then backed off and retightened to 10-15 lb/in, and the nut lock and cotter pin are installed. Make sure your cotter pin is not too long; otherwise, it will scrape the inside of your dust cap.
23 Our completed brake refurbishment...
23 Our completed brake refurbishment went well, and we have great satisfaction in knowing it was a job well done. But there is one task left to do (notice the spring stripe and control arm paint details courtesy of MCA Gold Card Judge Jeff Speegle).
24 Our last step is to black...
24 Our last step is to black out the drum faces-just as Ford did-for Styled Steel wheel applications. Project '66 will be riding on Styled Steel wheels and the black-out paint adds that finishing touch of correctness.
To complete our power drum brake rebuild/conversion, we called upon Master Power Brakes for one of its complete power booster and master cylinder assemblies for Project '66. While this file photo shows MPB's regular kit, we requested the more correct-looking screw-cap master cylinder for our project. MPB can provide just about any custom-brake requirement and has been known to come up with hard-to-find parts. Our hats off to the folks at MPB for their help on our braking project. Look for complete installation of our booster assembly when we detail the engine compartment in an upcoming article.