How To: '65-'66 Taillight Panel Replacement

16 The bumper supports on our project were replaced due to the extent of the rust on the trunk floors. At this time, they were placed into position and welded to the trunk floor and the taillight panel. If you are reusing yours, you will have to weld only the taillight panel to your original braces.

17-a With the taillight panel secured with a few tack-welds, the locking C-clamps can be removed. The quarter-panel end caps and the trunk lid were fitted at this time to double-check our alignment.

17-b The rear valance panel was also installed with a few screws to allow fitting of the lower quarter-panels (which were left loose from the trunk floors during installation) after the excessive sheetmetal was trimmed from the trunk drop-offs with a reciprocating saw.

18 Once every angle and measurement is rechecked, the taillight panel can be completely welded to the quarter-panels and the rear crossmember.

19 Don't forget to open the trunk and weld the panel to the trunk corners as well. These welds will be ground down, and new seam sealer will be installed to replicate the factory look in these corners.

20-a Now that the taillight panel is securely welded in place, the bottom of both new quarter-panels can be fit to the rear valance.

20-b Using a block of wood and some persuasion, the quarters are tweaked to meet properly with the rear valance, then welded to the trunk drop-offs.

21 Lastly, the trunk latch support is welded into place. This last piece of metal gives the taillight panel its final bit of strength.

22 Though we removed the rear valance for now (to prep for paint), the back of our '66 hardtop--actually ALL of our hardtop's metal repairs--are now complete. Look for an upcoming article on when we prep our '66 hardtop's skin for paint and actually lay down the PPG Deltron basecoat/clearcoat finish of Anniversary Gold.