Our KSR taillight panel arrived...
Our KSR taillight panel arrived with the rest of our metal order, but it had to wait patiently for its turn with Classic Creations of Central Florida's metal wizards.
When we wrote about our Project '66 in the Feb. '01 issue of Mustang Monthly, we discussed the pros and cons of repairing the rusty flanks of our project with patches, quarter skins, and full quarter-panels. Once our quarter-panels were replaced (along with the outer wheelhouses), all that was left in our once large pile of new sheetmetal parts were cowl patches and the taillight panel. We replaced the cowl patches in the Mar. '01 issue, and now in this issue we will finalize our metal repairs with the replacement of the taillight panel.
Since we've tied our taillight panel replacement into our quarter-panel replacement, you do not need to replace one panel in order to replace the other. If your taillight panel is damaged but your quarter-panels are in good shape, you can still replace only the taillight panel. Replacing the panel requires some basic welding and body skills but is actually a rather easy part of the Mustang body to replace.
As always, inspect your Mustang thoroughly to determine if you need other metal pieces in the surrounding areas. Trunk corner fillers, the rear crossmember, or the rear valance panel are all neighboring items you should inspect closely before picking up the phone and ordering your sheetmetal. Speaking of ordering, we picked up our taillight panel directly from KS Reproduction. You can call KSR toll-free (see the source box at the end of this article) to locate the KSR dealer closest to you.
1 Using a reinforced wire...
1 Using a reinforced wire wheel, all areas where spot welds will need to be drilled through are cleaned of all paint, sealer, and primer.
2 When hunting for spot welds,...
2 When hunting for spot welds, make sure you find all of them to prevent struggling with the taillight panel later. Several spot welds are found where the trunk latch support is mounted and at the bumper supports.
3 Once you've located all...
3 Once you've located all the spot welds, you can begin drilling them out to separate the metal panels. While Danny Gaydos of Classic Creations of Central Florida prefers the feel of a large drill bit just cutting through the top layer, you can also use a spot-weld cutter.
4 When drilling out the spot...
4 When drilling out the spot weld, make sure you drill far enough only to separate the two metal panels. If you drill completely through both panels, you will have little area for the new panel to be welded to.
5 Use a chisel to separate...
5 Use a chisel to separate the taillight panel from the end of the quarter-panel on each side. If you find a missed spot weld, drill it out; don't try to chisel through it.
6 The top lip of the taillight...
6 The top lip of the taillight panel overlaps the end of the trunk corners. Using a pair of locking pliers, pry the top lip away from the trunk corner to separate the welds located there.
7 Next, cut away the major...
7 Next, cut away the major section of the taillight panel with a cut-off wheel or reciprocating saw. If you've already replaced your quarters or if they are in good condition, make sure you do not accidentally cut into them.
8 Once the taillight panel...
8 Once the taillight panel has been set free from the back of the car by your saw, carefully pull the old metal away. We stress carefully because again, you may have missed a spot weld somewhere.
9 The remaining small sections...
9 The remaining small sections found in each corner can be removed by using a pair of locking pliers to break the strips of old metal free. Simply work the section of metal back and forth until it gives up its hold on the end of the quarter-panel.
10 Before fitting the new...
10 Before fitting the new taillight panel, take a few minutes to remove all the old seam sealer found in the corners, using a rotary tool and a cutting bit. Having clean, rust-free metal to weld to will make for a stronger, longer lasting repair.
11 Our '66 hardtop has its...
11 Our '66 hardtop has its taillight panel completely removed now. This is the halfway point of the project. Next are panel prep, measuring, and installation of the new taillight panel.
12 Depending upon how you...
12 Depending upon how you install your new taillight panel and what your vendor sends you, there is a strong possibility that this small modification will need to be completed. The last inch on each end of the taillight panel's top edge will need to be bent flat for installation, as shown here.
13 Looking at the old taillight...
13 Looking at the old taillight panel will help you determine where the new taillight panel will need to be welded. At these junctures use a drill or punch to make small holes to allow MIG-welding of the panel.
14 Using the alignment tabs...
14 Using the alignment tabs along the bottom of the taillight panel, as well as the taillight housing mounting stud holes, the taillight panel is clamped into place using locking C-clamp pliers. Having the trunk lid on the car helps at this time for alignment purposes.
15 With the taillight panel...
15 With the taillight panel in position, lay down a few tack-welds along the bottom edge (to the rear crossmember) to hold the panel in place initially.
16 The bumper supports on...
16 The bumper supports on our project were replaced due to the extent of the rust on the trunk floors. At this time, they were placed into position and welded to the trunk floor and the taillight panel. If you are reusing yours, you will have to weld only the taillight panel to your original braces.
17-a With the taillight panel...
17-a With the taillight panel secured with a few tack-welds, the locking C-clamps can be removed. The quarter-panel end caps and the trunk lid were fitted at this time to double-check our alignment.
17-b The rear valance panel...
17-b The rear valance panel was also installed with a few screws to allow fitting of the lower quarter-panels (which were left loose from the trunk floors during installation) after the excessive sheetmetal was trimmed from the trunk drop-offs with a reciprocating saw.
18 Once every angle and measurement...
18 Once every angle and measurement is rechecked, the taillight panel can be completely welded to the quarter-panels and the rear crossmember.
19 Don't forget to open the...
19 Don't forget to open the trunk and weld the panel to the trunk corners as well. These welds will be ground down, and new seam sealer will be installed to replicate the factory look in these corners.
20-a Now that the taillight...
20-a Now that the taillight panel is securely welded in place, the bottom of both new quarter-panels can be fit to the rear valance.
20-b Using a block of wood...
20-b Using a block of wood and some persuasion, the quarters are tweaked to meet properly with the rear valance, then welded to the trunk drop-offs.
21 Lastly, the trunk latch...
21 Lastly, the trunk latch support is welded into place. This last piece of metal gives the taillight panel its final bit of strength.
22 Though we removed the...
22 Though we removed the rear valance for now (to prep for paint), the back of our '66 hardtop--actually ALL of our hardtop's metal repairs--are now complete. Look for an upcoming article on when we prep our '66 hardtop's skin for paint and actually lay down the PPG Deltron basecoat/clearcoat finish of Anniversary Gold.